f1 not shifting into gear, pump just replaced a month ago looks to be fluid on ground

the fi pump res is located on the right rear side,take the 4 screws off and take cover off and put in syn d6 redline fluid,i think it would be best you have it towed back to repair shop.

 

If you want to see where the leak is coming from you need remove the rear back wheel and all the fender covers and the gravel guard. After all that turn the key on without start the car so you pressurerize the system, Using a flashlight inspect for any leaks. That happens to me before so check what was my problem;
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265599

Pray that your oil lines from the power unit to the gearbox are not damage, they are expensive.

 

A couple of reasons to the puddle (leak):
1) if the hydraulic oil reservoir is filled more than required, the excess of hydraulic fluid will leak out of the reservoir through the side channels in the cap that exist there specifically for that reason. This happens because when the pump is de-energized or deffective, the hydraulic gears inside the pimping head are "relaxed" and hydraulic fluid passes back froom the from hydraulic presure accumulator (a round black canister in the F1 hydrallic unit; marked #1 in the attached schema) through the pump head back into the reservoir and leals through the cap onto the ground. If you dont hear your F1 pump getting activated when you open the driver-side door (you should hear a buzz from the engine compartment for about 5-6 seconds), then your F1 pump is toast!

2) If you dont hear your F1 pump getting activated when you open the driver-side door, anoher reason may be that the F1 pump relay is toast! One should replace the realy at least once a year. It is located in the right compartment behind the passenger seat (see the attached pictures; on one picture it is marked by capital "C", on another picture I am hoding this relay). You can find a new upgraded F1 relay for sale in the FerrariAds section.

3) Yet another reason may be as simple as the burnt 30A fuse for the F1 pump and relay, which is located in the compartment behind the driver's seat (see attached picture, pointing at the fuse).

If any of the above is not the problem, then there are less likely, but still possible reasons like:

4) one of the valves for bleeding of air from the F1 hydraulic system was not tightened enough or got loose and is leaking hydraulic oil.

5) one of the hydraulic fluid line connections with the F1 pump is loose (either the hydraulic oil intake or pressure pipe, the latter is more likely). Proper bleeding procedures for the pump are described in the following thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268458&highlight=clutch+sensor&page=2

6) one of the hydraulic lines connecting with the F1 hydraulic shift actuator is leaking. This had happened with my own car in the past and I replaced one of those lines myself. It costs about $80 to rebuid at the local hydraulic machinery shop, like Hoses-R-Us in Houston.

Please, let me know what was the reason to that leak.
Cheers.

Juri.
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Makes me yearn for 6-speed manual

 

Wow!?
Who is working on your car? Is it an official Ferrari shop or an independent mechanic?
You wrote:
1) "they tightened it" - what did they tighten ???
2) "they lowered the presure" - one can not lower the presure !!! it should be according to specs and regulated by TCU via the feedback from a pressure sensor connected to hydraulic fluid accumulator. Unless they "reprogrammed" your TCU, which is highly unlikely. With lowered pressure your F1 power unit should have hard time operating the hydraulic transmission actuator.
3) "extra 2000 miles" ? and then what ? they are telling you to replace the whole F1 power unit?
Man, this smells fishy ...
4) the price for the whole new F1 power unit (Ferrari part #179533) is in the right ballpark, because RicambiAmerica sells it for $ 4,886.95, they sell the F1 pump for $800 (Ferrari part #213264).
Here is their link:
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=690
Talk to Daniel at RicambiAmerica - he will explain this better.
5) it will take at least 4-5 hours to replace the whole F1 power unit, bleed the system, and then perform electronic adjustment and learning procedures using an SD5 tool.

 

Glad you said it first! I'd get slammed if I said it.

I'd also have a look at fluid block 196918 to see if the crappy old Ferrari one has cracked.

 

Absolutely correct, Daniel !

Hill Engineering manufactures a much better replacement block, which your company offers for quite a reasonable price, I think...

Cheers.

 

It's probably wise to get another qualified shop to diagnose your problem.

You can not adjust the pressure even with an SD3 as far as I know. TCU is programmed to switch on the F1 pump between about 40Bar and 60Bar based on sensor feedback. Less than 40Bar pressure then it's not enough to operate the actuator.

I have run quite a few Challenge cars, so I have seen hose and other leaks, but never power unit leaks. The servo valves may leak internally so the F1 system is sluggish or require more cycling of the pump, but you won't get a puddle on the ground from that. As far as I know the only service part you can buy for the power unit is the QPV valve off of Maserati parts catalog.

I bought 2 power units a few years ago they were about $2,600 each. So I see the price has gone up quite a bit.

 

Coincidently, when I had my F1 pump replaced by a dealer a few years ago, I suffered a leak right afterward also. Mine was a rush job because I was taking the car on a trip the next day, but it started leaking partway into that trip. I bought some ATF and refilled it to get through the first day. When I examined it that afternoon (parked, while my daughter shifted so I could observe the pump), it was leaking at the hydraulic hard line connection to the pump (#5 in the list by Juri, above). This was part #16 in the parts diagram above. I stopped at a gas station, bought a wrench, and tightened the connection another 1/8th turn to 1/4 turn. Best as I can remember, it felt a bit loose at the start so it was likely not tightened well at the shop. I checked it a few more times after this till I gained confidence that the problem was gone and I wasn't going to run the pump dry. Has been trouble-free ever since.

If they have tightened your leaky connection at this point, I'd ask them what the downside is to driving it till it fails again. I suspect that the likely case will be that you will have to top up the fluid to get going if it does indeed start leaking again. I don't know what the implications are of them having lowered the pressure - didn't even know you could do that - so I would quiz them a bit more on the downsides of that.

BTW, when topping up the fluid, the system is somewhat finicky. The dipstick under the cap doesn't give a good indication. You only need to fill 5mm above the big white disk inside the reservoir. On my car this doesn't even register on the dipstick. I used a ruler instead.


Lou

 

True.

 

You are correct - some people dont take into account that one should test the level before the F1 pump will prime the hydraulic power unit. It is tricky, but can be done:
1) open driver's side door and open the motor lid
2) close driver side door and inspect the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir (part 17, schema on the right) by unscrewing the reservoir cap (part 18, schema on the right)
3) wait for a couple of hours and inspect again - the hydraulic fluid level will rise as the power unit de-pressurises and the hydraulic fluid flows back into the reservoir
4) use a large pipette (like the one used for turkey juices) to remove the excess hydraulic fluid
5) the proper level should be 5-6 mm higher than the tip of the dip-stick attached to the reservoir cap (part 17, schema on the right)