What is the cheapest way to play?

The entry point can be very low.

A 355C, 55-65k.

Only 4 weekends (8 races) count for the weekends. The venues will be grouped two in the northeast, three in the south. So you can coordinate to move far only once. I think with a 355, with strategic transport and race choice you can do an arrive and drive program and spend less than 10k per race weekend. So you could almost do it for 100 k with the car.

 

Hmmm. You said forget about podiums! John has it right though. A 355Ch with a recent belt replacement; or a straight car that needs a belt replacement will average absent incident or accident between $7500 and $10K a weekend as follows

Tires at 1.5 sets - $2
Gas - $0.5
Track Service -$2
Tow - $3
Event fees - $1
Accommodation and transport - $1

If you tow yourself, stay in your camper or tent, run 91 octane, buy and heat cycle your own tires and keep tire change equipment in your trailer you could drop that by half. But that makes the event like a regional NASA or SCCA event. Hardly the spirit of the event but hey Rob is a Champion who did just that.

 

i'm talking vintage racing here [but i'm sure ferraris apply]...say you have an old gp bugatti...say you have $1,000,000 invested in it...the first lap will cost 1 mil....however the second lap will only be .5 mil...the third .25 and so on....pretty soon it's almost free! then, if you don't bugger it up you can easily regain your investment + cash depending on the market....aren't cars fun!!!!

 

I don't think Rob plans to run a full season, though defending 355 Champion Onofrio Triarsi is. Come on out and test your mettle against the others. It should be a very fun and competitive class.

 

Ah a different story altogether! Back in the day I shared a Bug 35 with a family member so we were supposed to be joined by more than cars - right? Did not turn out that way because we raced it in Vintage events in the UK. The problem is that to enjoy this sport at any level you have to some amount of FU money! Then it's just a question of choosing your poison to afford that level of FU currency. Total elimination is unlikely. But value reduction is possible in most series. So just find a level that suits your credit card portfolio. The 355 is about as low as you can go, race repeatedly at different tracks, and get all the wonderment that produces.

I guess oval dirt and Formula Vee is the absolute bottom of the cost league.

 

Having skills of a DIY'er makes a huge difference. When I raced my 348 raccar part of its amazing never fail on the track mystic was because of my sweet equity. I did an engine out timing belt with "while you are in theres" on a yearly bassis. A timing belt cost me 100 bucks labor was free. That minimum expense would have been $2-4K from a dealer. If I blow up an alternator I rebuilt it for 100 bucks. A dealer would have cost a grand. Everyone would tell you to buy a 355C but IMO the 360C is a better car and cheaper to run. Hang out on the 355 boards and learn the 100% nature of 355 failures with valve guides and headers. 360C is so much more turnkey and more costly but will not bleed you like a 355C when you need engine work. Everyone will also tell you to buy a 355C or 360C as an entry challenge car but being a DIY'ER if you buy a streetcar and convert it you can sell off all the parts that don't make the car go fast thus reducing your get in fee. You can also buy a 360 3 pedal car and avoid the biggest potential expense after the motor which is an F1 failure. I can replace a clutch in a 3 pedal car twice at least for 50 bucks! There is no way you can do that with an F1 car. When I converted my 348 streetcar I sold parts off it for crazy money. People wanted my rear view mirror $250 bucks, foglights $700, sideview mirrors $700 it is just crazy. Another reason to DIY is because the OEM Ferrari cages are bolt-in and not that great and 90% of the cars not being actively campaigned have expired fire systems, expired harnesses, and expired seats. Those 3 items are conservatively 2 grand right there. A good reason to consider 355C is that the steel unibody you can weld the cage to. However, you can design and build a proper bolt-in cage just as safe as the welded cage but Ferrari did not spend the money to develop that. Ferrari totally cheaped out on cages. Oh price a fender too that will shock you. A junk yard vette or miata fender will cost you less than 100 bucks.

 

I like your rates. You are hired


What series is this? Link?

 

If you want cheap racing , check out chumpcar , ALOT of seat time real cheap. many rental arrive & drive cars are roughly $900 and will get you a couple sessions of hour & half to two hours. NOT sexy or overly cool cars , but damn cheap wheel to wheel at a huge assortment of tracks in the US ,Mexico and a few in Canada too.

 

Dale. The first taste is free. Come to TWS on February 11th and drive the Lemons car for a stint.
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Bring checkbook....very large checkbook!!!!

 

Do it !!! I'm guessing hour and half or 2 hours , with what the fuel burn should be in that car . Cars may be somewhat ugly , but the racing is a hoot !

 

Chumpcar really is excellent fun.

 

Great advise from someone who has been there. Normally i would suggest buying an allready prepared car. My Fil just bought an over the top e36 M3 race car for 17k that easily cost 40ish to build.

However Ferraris are the exception where you can sell the parts for an incredible sum and build the car the way you want it.