Coolant Level Sensor on Expansion Tank - 83 Mondial QV | FerrariChat

Coolant Level Sensor on Expansion Tank - 83 Mondial QV

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by rtking, Jun 18, 2007.

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  1. rtking

    rtking Formula Junior

    Mar 5, 2006
    703
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Full Name:
    Bob King
    Does anyone know of a source and part number for the coolant level sensor on the expansion tank for a '83 Mondial QV? The indicator on my console warning of low coolant stays lit and I'm trying to troubleshoot why.

    Also, does anyone with a Mondial QV know what the sensor is for on the bottom side of the expansion tank? Is that the coolant temperature sensor? My engine-cold warning light (on my speedo) is illuminated. And would that be the reason why my idle remains rather high (2000 rpm?) Is it in warm-up mode?

    Sorry for the many questions! I'm just going through the new acquisition to get things sorted out...

    Bob
     
  2. racespecferrari

    racespecferrari F1 Veteran

    Jan 31, 2006
    7,583
    Suffolk, Uk
    Full Name:
    Pete.G By The Sea
    I have just had a new ali tank made as my original Qv tank leaked and I didn't re-use the sensor, if anyone can tell me how to remove it safely you can have it cheap.
     
  3. Consejero

    Consejero Karting

    Mar 15, 2004
    68
    Dallas, Texas
    Full Name:
    James R. Consejero
    I have a Mondial 8 and I believe they are the same. You should have 2 identical liquid level sensors. One is in the coolant expansion tank, made by Veglia and the other one in the Windshield Washer Fluid bottle above the battery. They are interchangeable. These corrode and fail throughout time. Sourcing them new is almost impossible and getting a used one is a scary proposition.
    He problem is that Ferrari's tend to "sit" for extended periods of time. Few people I know change the coolant every year...if you're like me, as long as it looks green right? Problem is after a year or so Ethanol Glycol's PH starts to deteriorate and turn acidic. Many people assume that the rust in your radiator is caused by the water in it but most radiators are made of copper or aluminum ergo no rust. What's actually happening is a chemical reaction. The same reaction is going on in your expansion tank.
    Don't despair, these are very easy to repair. Take it out, all it is, is a float attached to a wire the pushes a magnet up to complete a circuit and turn on a light. Continuity between the two wires means full, no light. Open circuit, light on coolant empty.
    There are two small plastic tabs on the bottom of the sender where the plastic meets the metal rod. Spread these plastic tabs slightly and the sender/ float mechanism will separate.

    The problem is usually corrosion on the rod freezing it from going up or down or the rod corroding away all together.

    Once apart you'll notice there is a float with a wire rod going through it. Looks like its soldered at the bottom. Float, rod, then a plastic holder the retains the magnetic rectangular piece of metal that completes the circuit...mind that it actually does so through the plastic housing the two wires on top.

    Cut a piece of wire cloth hanger a similar length, wire hangar is ideal because it has a rubberized coating that will slow down the future corrosion. Grind the bottom of the float where the metal wire is attached, careful to not grind the rubber float since you are going to reuse it. Heat the wire slightly until the plastic around the upper connector starts to melt then pull the connector off the top end, should slide out with some gentle persuasion

    I made a loop at the end of my new wire and slid the float in. Use ample super glue to hold the rubber float to the wire and let it dry. Make sure the end of the wire is also covered in supper glue to re coat the exposed metal end where you cut the hangar so it wont rust.

    Slide the plastic snap holder in first then the mushroom looking head with the magnet and place it on the end of the MEASURED wire. Turn it upside down so the float is on top and its balancing on the magnet, fill the cavity with super glue to hold it in place and voila! You've just completed the surgical procedure, saved a couple hundred bucks and probably ended up with a better than before option since the offending metal wire is now covered in plastic.

    Snap plastic back together and test with ohm meter. If for some reason it does not work, check the magnetic strip and make sure the cavity where the magnet resides is clean...if it still doesn't work chuck it and put a float from a different car in there.
    I'll try to post pics later, darn ipad wont let me
     

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