DIY Light Paint Correction on F430 Spider | FerrariChat

DIY Light Paint Correction on F430 Spider

Discussion in '360/430' started by Trent, Jan 2, 2013.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. Trent

    Trent Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2003
    2,013
    Indialantic, FL
    Full Name:
    Trent
    #1 Trent, Jan 2, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This is not in the same league as a professional paint correction, in fact I have decided not to compound at all. So calling this a light paint correction is even a bit exaggerated.

    If you have ever wanted to go a few steps beyond the traditional wash and wax, this might be for you.

    Task:
    =========
    Lightly polish the paint, then add a coating of wax using a DA Polisher to apply and polish then wax the vehicle.

    Why?:
    =========
    After washing it and drying it I noticed the paint had a bit of light scratches and did not have a proper shine or reflection. It is true that a wax job would have taken me half way there, but because DA polishing is so fast and safe, it was really just an additional 30 minutes to add a polish step, so why not.

    Prep:
    =========
    1. Wash very good. You don't want any dirt to get on your DA pad
    2. Dry. I use a California water blade (near zero effect on paint), then use a microfiber cloth for the cracks and leftover droplets. Much less chance of swirls, etc.
    3. Clay car using a yellow clay. I used a Griots "yellow" clay bar. If you want more info on "how to" clay, just ask. It is important to clay IMO because claying removes surface contain ants that might get lifted by the polisher. If you lift an abrasive contaminate with the polisher it could scratch your paint until you notice it. With the clay it would be isolated damage in the general area and only until you fold the clay, which should be often. Should you clay your car? Run your fingers across it when it is clean and if you feel braile like bits then yes maybe you should consider using a clay bar to remove the surface contaminants. It works well.

    Polish:
    ==========
    I used Meguiars Polish, it is safe, fast and the results are good. It is also reasonably priced. I applied it using a Griots DA at speed 3.5. I used the standard polish template for movements (in video and as image below) and 3-5 passes over paint.

    Wax:
    ==========
    I used Meguiars Synthetic Sealant 2.0. A little pricy but very good and very easy to remove. If you are still killing yourself trying to buff off carnauba wax, you should try it. Waxes have changed, it is you my friend that have not changed.

    Materials:
    ==========
    ---Consumables
    -Meguiars Synthetic Sealant 2.0 : ~$20 for 16oz
    -Meguiar's Ultimate Compound : ~$10 for 16oz
    -Meguiars Ultimate Compound : ~$10 for 16oz *Did not use on this detail job, but would highly recommend if compounding was needed.
    -Griot's Garage 11145 Paint Cleaning Clay Kit (includes lubricant) : $29

    ---Tools
    -Griot's Garage 10765LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25' cord. *Get the 25' cord, the short one is a PIA. : ~$140
    -Lake Country Pad - Orange : $10
    -Lake Country Pad - Red : $10
    -Lake Country Pad - Yellow : $10 *Not used here because I was not compounding

    Process:
    ==========
    Best to watch video….

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzygQQPuaeY[/ame]

    Level of difficulty:
    ==========
    6 (on a scale of 1 to 10 where 1 is wiping yourself and 10 is installing a new waternator)

    Could it be better:
    ==========
    It can always be better. The paint still has orange peel, although it is pretty muted but can be spotted in the reflection of the lights. It could also be compounded a bit with a medium cut pad, but the difference would be minimal this side of a show car judge. It really looks fabulous in person.

    Disclaimer:
    ==========
    I am not a paint care expert. I have no formal or informal training in the area of paint correction. I can read and follow basic directions and am thankful as such. I am not responsible if you cook through your clear and/or base coat and otherwise wreck your paint. Follow my directions at your own peril.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. GWARREND

    GWARREND Formula Junior

    Sep 23, 2012
    525
    Ontario, Canada
    Full Name:
    Greg
    #2 GWARREND, Jan 2, 2013
    Nice job. Thanks for sharing...
     
  3. Mo T

    Mo T Formula Junior

    Nov 26, 2011
    478
    Saudi Arabia
    Full Name:
    Mohammed
    #3 Mo T, Jan 2, 2013
    Great job Trent, and a great ending lol
     
  4. Supreme360Swag

    Supreme360Swag Formula Junior

    Dec 26, 2011
    323
    Peninsula bay area
    Full Name:
    Allan
    #4 Supreme360Swag, Jan 2, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Nice video Trent. Me myself got into DIY detailing. I've tried lots of different products out there. I recommend the meguiars da microfiber correction system. It works wonders. Before and after shots on a black mb paint. [​IMG][​IMG]
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  5. tr328

    tr328 Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    905
    Pacifica, California
    Full Name:
    Darryl
    #5 tr328, Jan 2, 2013
    +1

    Same stuff I use!

    Oh, I forgot, I got supplies from Allan. Lol
     
  6. Trent

    Trent Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2003
    2,013
    Indialantic, FL
    Full Name:
    Trent
    #6 Trent, Jan 3, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    After some research I decided to try and polish my clear film. I believe it to be 3M, but am not sure. I have been unable to identify any markings and it was installed by a previous owner.

    The reason the brand may be important is that I have read that different brands respond differently to different products. 3M is suppose to respond well to polish and wax.

    Product:
    =======
    -Meguiars Synthetic Sealant 2.0 : ~$20 for 16oz
    -Meguiar's Ultimate Polish : ~$10 for 16oz

    ---Tools
    -Griot's Garage 10765LNGCRD 25' cable
    -Lake Country Pad - Orange : $10
    -Lake Country Pad - Red : $10

    Result:
    =======
    The 3M clear bra seemed to respond well to the polish. The before/after image with blue tape shows the results of the polish only. The following image of the entire hood shows polish and wax.

    Other Options:
    =========
    Because the bra is a plastic based product, I was considering using PlasticX or a similar product. These products remove a small amount of the plastic via a chemical reaction, similar to say Mothers on aluminum (or so I believe by its use). The paint polish worked well so I did not try this method.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    rennspeed likes this.
  7. Finlander

    Finlander Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 12, 2012
    2,328
    Sunshine State
    #7 Finlander, Jan 3, 2013
    Great job !

    I'll drop my car off in the morning so you can get started on it :)
     
  8. Dohangs

    Dohangs F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2008
    3,092
    Florida
    Full Name:
    Spiro
    #8 Dohangs, Jan 3, 2013
    Thanks for posting. Great video, quite entertaining.
     
  9. FerrariDublin

    FerrariDublin F1 Rookie

    Jun 14, 2009
    3,452
    Dublin, Ireland
    Full Name:
    Greg
    #9 FerrariDublin, Jan 4, 2013
    Trent, well done, very slick.

    p.s. You've got WAY too much time on your hands Dude! :D
     
  10. Trent

    Trent Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2003
    2,013
    Indialantic, FL
    Full Name:
    Trent
    #10 Trent, Jan 4, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I also polished my headlight covers as they were scratched slightly.

    Adding a video illustrating the before and after of the clear film polish and wax. I also polished my headlights with good results, but it is not very obvious from the video.

    I also tried to capture the before and after with digital images, but once again the slight moisture stains on the inside of the lenses distracts from the surface scratch removal progress. The lenses definitely look better and are about as good as I can get without disassembly.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LckzLBhQKOU[/ame]
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  11. 2GT

    2GT Formula 3

    Aug 25, 2008
    1,830
    Western NY
    Full Name:
    Fred
    #11 2GT, Jan 4, 2013
    Great job on the headlights, Trent. It would be wonderful if the headlight covers either snapped off or pivoted out or upward for cleaning. Fred
     
  12. Trent

    Trent Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2003
    2,013
    Indialantic, FL
    Full Name:
    Trent
    #12 Trent, Jan 4, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It is too bad the headlights are "sealed", but the water spots are really only visible in specific lighting. Here are some shots with natural light, you can not see them in person or the images.

    *That Rosso Scuderia sure can Orange, I love it.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  13. 2GT

    2GT Formula 3

    Aug 25, 2008
    1,830
    Western NY
    Full Name:
    Fred
    #13 2GT, Jan 4, 2013
    F430 headlights have a very stealthy look to them. I much prefer them to the LED look of the 458 headlights. Fred
     
  14. JazzyJay

    JazzyJay Formula Junior

    Oct 26, 2005
    367
    Connecticut
    #14 JazzyJay, Jun 6, 2019
    I thought I would update this thread since a recent post of mine drew lots of attention. The method I outline below can actually be described as "light paint correction". It worked well on my '02 360 Spider. As background info, the car was new to me, and the paint was decent (meaning no hideous scratches/bubbles/oxidation) but had a fair amount of fine scratches/swirls and a couple slightly more noticeable scratches. The process below worked great, and now that the car has "aged" a few weeks, I'm happier with the results than I was originally (the last two "protective" steps of the seal and wax held up well to the ridiculous blanket of pollen that falls every May here in CT...and subsequent washings).
    _______________________________________________________________
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login


    Here’s my routine:

    Spray wheels with 6235 Brake Dust Buster prior to any water sprayed on the car (be careful...very strong, need to wash off quickly)

    Pre-soak/wet car

    Wash wheels with brush and Griots car wash soap (soap is mostly to wash off tires and harsh brake dust buster), and rinse wheels thoroughly (also do the wheel wells at this point)

    Wash car with Chemical guys hand mit and two buckets (Griots soap and rinse bucket and homemade plastic bottom grate from a honey bee crate). Rinse thoroughly

    Pre-dry nooks and crannies with compressed air hose (the back of the convertible top holds LOTS of water between canvas and paint, and will collect water as the top "drains" downward toward the paint, so blow off this area repeatedly and also do it last)

    Dry with Chem Guys waffle towels (one for “big” water and another for final dry), no pressure, just weight of towel

    Clay bar (Griots) the paint and homemade "detail" spray (with plain water and one drop of car wash soap in 32 oz spray bottle), sometimes I use Meguiar's detail spray, but the cheapy method works just as well. Dry/lightly buff of water

    Chem Guys V36 polish/compound with blue hex pad and PC DA polisher on 3 1/2 speed, going in basket-weave pattern, doing all the paint and also the protective bra (kept a very slight gap between paint and bra...not quite getting the polishing pad to the edge when doing paint, same with bra). Wiped with Griots blue microfiber towels. The process is to spray the pad with a little water, and then put 5 pea-sized drops of compound on the pad. Smush the pad in a few spots around the paint, and then polish away (about a 2' x 2' area). Don't over polish (letting the compound get dry while polishing).

    Chem Guys EZ Glaze Cream with green hex pad, 3 1/2 speed, same steps as above (but do not use on plastic bra). This "extra" step was really worth the time...made a noticeable difference in depth of shine and further reduced swirls.

    Chem Guys Jet Seal with black pad, same steps as above including bra and plastic headlight lenses.

    Chem Guys Butter Wet Wax with red pad, same as above but no bra/lenses.

    All of the polishing/compounding/waxing steps- removed residue between steps by hand with a Chem Guys ultra plush microfiber detail towel. Hand-applied all steps around small areas not reached by DA pad, hand removed.

    Windshield:

    Spray/wipe with Sprayway glass cleaner

    Blue clay bar with plain water spray, dry (don't go crazy...a few small streaks ok)

    Chem Guys V38 polish with green hex pad on 4 1/2 speed (really gets out tiny dings, swirls and wiper marks). Repeat if necessary

    Spray with Rainex, buff in by hand, let dry and buff out. Dramatically improves driving visibility and makes the windshield look new.

    Tires:

    Turtle Wax (yes...Turtle Wax) Endura Tire Shine. This is a black, watery liquid "paint-like" coating that is REALLY good. Hard to find...I had to re-order online since not available locally. It is a mess to apply until you get used to it. Make sure the tires are dry (compressed air earlier). Squirt liquid onto tire applicator sponge (very thin liquid, will likely drip onto your hand and garage floor...wipe up instantly since it dries like paint, use Windex or rubbing alcohol to remove if dry). Wipe applicator onto tires, rubbing back-and-forth to get into lettering/nooks/crannies. Liquid will dry in a few minutes. Repeat. Roll car forward a few feet to gain access to bottom of tires. DO NOT get on rims since it will dry and leave a black streak. This product is not silicone-based and will not degrade your ties over time like many spray shines with silicone and iso-butane propellants. Lasts forever, not really a "wet" shine (which looks fake to me), but nice dark black shine..

    Clean-up:

    The pads were sprayed with Chem Guys blue-colored pad cleaner and washed/rinsed by hand in hot water...they dry quickly if you "spin" them a bit on the DA before you put them away. Towels also sprayed with cleaner, and then put in normal washing machine delicate cycle on hot. DO NOT wash your car detailing towels with other bath towels or household items- they will pick up lint and fuzzies.

    I was able to correct/remove all the defects I wanted with the exception of a deeper scuff on the bra on the front bumper. It looks mush better, but I am now brave enough to attempt a little surgery in this area and try progressively more aggressive pad/compound combinations. I'll post an update if it works.


    Hope this helps.​
     

Share This Page