Sorry Jeff I meant to say the present entry level Ferrari is the GT4 followed by the 308 GTB/S . You are correct when these cars were new they were high price compared to everything else out there. I think a 77 308 cost about $25K and a 77 Corvette cost $8500. I couldn't afford either back in 77. LOL
Maybe you should start a poll. If you bought your 308 in the last 5 years did you pay : 1. $15-$20K . 2. $20-$25K . 3. $25-$30K 4. $30-$35K 5. $35-$40K 6. Over $40K
Another very nice GTBi just popped up as well - buy it now of 35k. This one with no passenger side mirror - I freakin' LOVE that. Ferrari 308 308GTBI | eBay
Excluding the "Mondial" as being a four-seater, the entry-level two-seater Ferrari in France is now the 348. Agreed, most are not in tip-top shape, suffering from deferred maintenance; but it is the entry-level Ferrari for the two seaters V8. The 308s are now "about level" with a 348 for the two-valve cars. 355 and 328 are now more or less in the same bracket (from 42 to 52 k€ and the 360 is closing down fast on those two. In about a year, the 360 will be in the 328 / 355 bracket. Rgds
I harbor no illusions..... My cars would be "worth the most" if I got a sawzall, and chopped them up to pieces, but I'd have three frames to scrap out...
I don't "do" 308s, so I don't know what this thing is "worth"... I was rooting around a barn-literally-a couple of weeks ago(1st paint '61 flat bottom, louvres, and latches e-TYPE WITH 2 OWNERS, BULLIT PROOF PAPERWORK AND less than 15K miles...) Yes freak finders-her hymen was intact-it still is out there... 2 cars over was a red, re-spray '76 B-ventrosina-USA versiion with both air apumps, mag pulleys, all ck valves, clamps, brackets, heat shields, belt gards, diverter valve, period clamps, AND proper carbon cannister! NO thermal reactor though...car has a redone interior-fresh, nice-but not tooo nice-it is a 308 after all, and most interiors were plastic garbage anyways... Mag wheels-too nice: either full of putty or re-pops-proper stickers though...xwxs, etc BAD stuff...respray in resale red-originally silver mettallic(like most i've seen!), motor has been reworked(i do 12 cyl racing cars, I KNOW a big motor when I hear it), there is a copy of a letter from what is best described as modern version(1975-77) of "GES" listing a "hot rod" parts menu from P-6 cams with vernier dowel holes for cam timing to pistons, valves, springs, rod hardware, special KONIS, yadda yadda yadda...jetting charts etc...my professional conclusion is that this stuff is there which explains lack of thermal reactor(it woulda roasted in an hour and car burnt to the ground!), there is a box of drop gears which appear to be part of the double truck quick change sets made by collotti for rallye cars back in the day(be careful what you wish for, I know the story on this stuff better than most) The car is very period original to a degree of 80-85%(mostly silly stuff like hoses), even most(but by NO means all) cavis is original.. since its glass, AND it has lived its ENTIRE life in an affluent/wealthy Northern California township{car driven less than 100 miles since 1989}, there is zero rust and absolutely no crash damage history. It is 1 of first 50 cars built as well... So, now that its described acccurately: if I paint the car properly, tune-up the interior and cosmetic details, mechanical stuff is no problem for me regardlesss the disaster, .... what is a 308 like this worth??? to me, they are the ONLY 308 which is collectable(dry-sumps are too many, and are "grey market"-in europe/Japan/austailia....different story, different rules...I'm talking here in USA) opinions please... thanks, ciao
It's not worth anything; you should tell me where this barn is so I can get rid of this headache for you! ; ) Based on the trends the last 6 months or so: 100k+ USD ...possibly more if you export it to Europe...could bring 150k USD equivalent Buuuuut, I think with this car originality is king for the buyer, so little stuff could really drive the price down. There is a vetro thread that talks current pricing, you should be able to find it with a search...
I agree! But I do not know what that sold for...is that public knowledge? I'd love to know, because I know what I think it is worth.
And be an Enzo era car with a successful race history at the hands of a star driver. It all depends on your definition of "proper".
I added a virtual test drive. Ferrari 308 VIN ZFFAA02A7A0034205 For Sale -- Virtual Test Drive & Walkaround - YouTube
Sounds like a 100K would be a good starting point. The car is obviously going to need work but probably still could command a very high price.
Ow - your revs is hard! ; ) Looks nice and honest. Might have a leak at the radiator there...or that might be an old repair. The oil pressure is good. That light would be on with no oil pressure....or the bulb is burned out : ) I did see the gauge register some pressure briefly in the video. I bet it will come to life if you clean the contacts...why bother though - bidding up to 29.9k...
I revved it after warming it up and driving it for a while. Wasn't on a cold engine. That's why I made the video, wanted to ensure buyers the car starts, drives and sounds nice!
I watched the video, couple things, now bear in mind this is purely based on the video. The oil pressure is low, too low actually. At 6k rpm the pressure should be between 80~95 Psi, below 65 Psi is where things start to get bad. The valve train seems to be very noisy as well which would be expected with low oil pressure. There is the whistle sound, could very well be the exhaust tips, or air injection nozzles, hard to say. And please don't rev the engine unloaded, it stresses the conrod above it's design limit. there is also the concern over ring seating due to the low pressure in the cylinder as well, but the bigger problem is the increased stress on the rod as the low pressure in the manifold during cam overlap will put opposing forces during the downstroke on the rod. doesn't happen all at once but the micro stress fractures eventually lead to catastrophic failure in the most spectacular way.
I would throw a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to see if the OEM unit is bad or the OP is bad. I would also check the pressure relief spring to make sure it is set correctly or replace it with a new one.
