355 wont crank over.

If you have eliminated your battery as a possible cause and you have power to the starter when the key is turned (check with a VTVM) and you have eliminated the demobilizer as another possible cause, then its either a bad starter solenoid or the starter itself (or possibly the connections....clean these first before removing the starter assembly just in case). The solenoid is what engages the Bendix. Its located on the starter.

 

I switched the P relay with another relay that was the same part number. no luck there so far. I would tend to think the battery is fine because it's less than a year old and the headlights are working fine. Who knows? Is there a possibility I shorted out my starter or alternator?

 

You don't need a lift or jack stands. The starter comes out from the top.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bM4qqV_0vKM/UP6InBthtqI/AAAAAAAAHuc/Bl7Ax_d-4vw/image_thumb%25255B8%25255D.png?imgmax=800
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m5RAWStGVffYIgmx1uy1OLQ.jpg

You can test if the key is turning the circuit on with a simple test light on the solenoid connection, the small wire, while someone turns the key.

 

Thank you for this informative response...maybe I am getting closer to solving this problem....perhaps I shorted the starter or something? Is there a specific fuse for this....I didn't see a fuse for this in the shop manual, or did I miss it? Perhaps wiring in the camera is the culprit, but I am not sure why it would do that, given that I grounded it well, I would think. In any case, I disconnected the power to the camera and monitor.

If I get the car up on jack stands, can I access the starter motor? God I wish I had a lift. I suppose I should find out where to place the jack stands, though I doubt the manual would tell me that. any help on where to place them?

Thanks guys!

Anyone have any idea what a starter motor cost? Maybe I can look it up on Ricambi.

 

Did you attempt to jumpstart the car popping the clutch while in motion? My Porsche starter bendix went at the shore and a nice person pushed the car for me. It takes like 1-2mph in 2nd gear to rotate the flywheel. If that does not work it must be something electrical.

 

Hi, thanks for the idea....but others said to NOT have the ignition key turned forward while rocking the car....I figured bump-starting it would be the same thing no? Key forward, releasing the clutch etc? What would the procedure be? Key forward, roll, release the clutch in 2nd? Thanks in advance. Appreciate the feedback.

 

Key on run setting (not start), in neutral with clutch down at 2mph release clutch pedal quickly and back to neutral on the gas sort of. Always works for me though sorry I do not know anything about immobolizers or whether that prevents a start this way.

 

Well, when I disarm the alarm. ...rear light on the dash goes out...which means it is ready to go, I believe. So I would tend to think it is not the immobilizer.

 

Starter comes out the top, no need for jack stands. Check the start wire, it could have popped off the starter as it's just a slip fit connection on the starter.

 

That battery is dead! 12.18= get new battery, try to charge it, 13.2 is low when running too. Should be 13.8-14+ when running.

Make sure you got a good battery. If still no go then next step is hook up a remote starter and see if you can start car. Try those things and report back here.
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Like I said, you might have a bad battery. Mine went bad in about 8 months. All lights works, but just don't have enough juice to crank over. Recharge your battery with charger overnight, try start the car again. Or, get a heavy duty portable jumper, and try to jump start the car.

As for starter. If it is just in early stage of going bad, you can still make the car start.
Here is what you can do: use a big screw driver, or a hammer, tap on the body of the starter, tap with force for 5 to 10 times, don't tap too hard to break or dent the starter, just enough to make it vibrate, then try to start the car again. It should start if your starter is at early stage of going bad.

 

I remember my dad doing this on our old 50's & 60's era cars.
I tried it on my '95. Didn't work. But multiple ignition key on/off cycles and she would finally relinquish. A dremel wire brush on the contacts & center post and she is happy until I can find a kit to rebuild her.

 

Where in NJ are you?

 

thanks for the feedback. I have someone with a portable jumper who's coming over today.in addition on bringing a friend who is very knowledgeable about cars and we are going to go over as many things as possible. as for the location I am about 45 minutes south of you in the Toms River area. Would love to meet up sometime and go for a drive! Been looking for someone in New Jersey who has Ferrari...!

 

I would agree with FBB, start with having the battery tested. Mine read about the same when I was having alternator issues and I had a dead cell in the battery. Easy and cheap way to eliminate the issue.

Henry

 

THANKS FOR ALL OF THE HELP GUYS!!!!

I checked the slip-on connector to the starter motor. The metal connector was broken. I crimped a new connector on, and the car fired right up.
Now it makes a lot of sense why it wasn't even cranking. Thanks Bobdzar. Nice 355 btw.

Also, since I found a blown fuse for the air pump, I had never heard this new whining noise at start-up. I am glad it is now working....but unfortunately I think this might have had an impact on the left manifold, since the air pump is there to balance exhaust gases upon start-up. Just a guess.

I did not really want to drive my car until I rectify the manifold problem, but I wanted to get her back home in the garage, and out of my friend's driveway. I HATE leaving it outside.

SO....the left side manifold sounds louder than the right one now. As it was cooling off from a 10 minute ride, I heard a loud "clank"....I guess it was the crack coming back together and shifting upon cool-down. Just a guess.

I still have a check engine light. And a slow down light right from start-up...so my CEL issues are back. The Ferrari mechanic said he cleaned the connections to the ECU for the thermos...and that made the CEL and SDL go away. Two days before I saw the check-engine light come back on, the SDL came back, and is still present at start-up, but always goes away when the car warms up. Perhaps the connectors re-connect when the engine-bay heats up?

If you have the time, respond; I am not expecting you all to answer every single question. These are just some things I am wondering about. This car is quite important to me, to say the least. Thanks to all of you for helping me to solve this. You guys rock! Hope this thread saves someone a lot of BS. Check those fuses, and check that connection to the starter motor, connected to the pumpkin in the rear, visible from the engine bay.

Ok, here goes, now that I am driveable again:

1.What do you guys think about my CEL/SDL issues?? I am going to buy an OBD 2 tonight. I still CANNOT FIND THE PORT UNDER THE DASH< DRIVER'S SIDE.

2. Do you recommend repair or replacement of the manifold(s)? I was thinking of Fabspeed or Nouvalari.

3. Starting/ Driving the car with the manifold issue: Horrible idea or not to worry?

4. Will doing an ECU reset do anything for the CEL/ SDL? Or should I leave it be... so the codes don't reset and disappear for the OBD 2?

5. Is replacing the manifolds myself a bad idea if I am not a tech? I am handy with a wrench. I am in a huge cash crunch now with this manifold issue. I could save $800 or $1000 shop time if I do it myself....but don't want to screw anything up!

6. Why would my car hesitate/stumble upon acceleration? Can the cracked header make the car do this? Perhaps it was the back-up camera. At the time, the heat, fog lights, headlights, stereo and camera/ monitor were all on. I thought it was a voltage issue. Maybe its an air/ fuel issue? Or maybe the loose starter connection could cause issues with the electrical system? Baffled.

So many things to sort, but there's nothing like a 355.

-Brian

 

Glad the no start issue was an easy fix.

Iwould have the manifolds smoke tested to determine where the leak is. It could be a loose connection or a crack in the air rail and not a blown tube. The air pump will have no impact on it, all it does is dilute the exhaust when cold with air for emissions purposes.

A blown manifold or other large exhaust leak can trigger the cel, so fix that first. As to the sdl when the car is first started, it sounds like a thermocouple issue. Try swapping them side to side to see if the sdl light moves with the thermocouple.

I wouldn't drive much with a large exhaust leak, it can cause damage to the engine due to mixture issues.

If you're handy with a wrench, the manifolds should not be a problem to diy.

 

Glad to see you got the starting issue resolved. I had a feeling from what you had written that you were not getting power to the solenoid. Once again the pragmatic approach proves itself.

When you get you OBD II tester just read the codes for now and let us know what they are. Don't erase them just yet. I agree that it is not a good idea to drive with a cracked header. Not knowing your skills I can not recommend whether you should replace them yourself or have it done. You will have to be sure that they are bad. Sound like it from your description.

 

Ok here are my odb2 codes. I have a CEL that just happened 3 drives ago, and an SDL that is present at start-up. The SDL goes away after the car warms up.

1448
1445
0410-This was probably a code because the fuse to the air pump was blown. I replaced it with a 15A but just read I should throw a 20 amp in there.

Would any of the codes be related to the cracked LH manifold? What do these codes tell you guys? Thanks again for all of the help... -Brian