Dino DIY - Changing hoses and coolant pipes

synchro · Aug 26, 2012

Just sent an email to the person I spoke to who has replaced the tunnel hoses with Al pipes.

I imagine when I re-install my tunnel hoses that I'll need to collapse them a little to facilitate replacing them.

solly said: ↑

I have a problem with the long hoses running through the chassis. All my engine hoses were replaced in 2008 during a rebuild and are holding up fine. But I developed a major leak last week and traced it to the long hose at the front of the car, the one that conects to the T joint and returns hot water to the radiator. There was less than an inch of hose protruding from the chassis tunnel, and the (original?) hose clip had rusted away and broken off, and this is where my leak was. The 2 other clamps nearby (on the T joint) are also rusted almost through and I will replace those as well. Probably replace the T joint with stainless as well.
I am having a hell of a time trying to get some more hose to work with. I cannot get it to move at all, it is wedged into the tunnel with the 2nd hose. I was barely able to get a new hose clip around the hose and secure it, and the leak has stopped but I have no confidence in the repair. The old broken hose clip was actually wedged into the opening of the chassis tube as if it were being pulled backward towards the engine.
I am going to remove the T connector next and see if that frees up some movement. I have read on this board that someone makes aluminum pipe that replaces the 2 long hoses. Has anyone heard of this? That would be a much easier fix then trying to get 2 new long hoses threaded through the chassis tunnel (many posts on what a bi**h of a job that is).
Any comments welcome
Click to expand...

synchro · Aug 28, 2012

I emailed the owner and aluminum Dino guru Simon who is the subject of this thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295393
and got this response:

"Hi Scott,
the ones going through the chassis I replaced with good green stripe hose …. the rest I made in alloy ...
Si"

NOTE: "alloy" would be the pipes to the thermostat and oil heat exchanger

solly said: ↑

I have a problem with the long hoses running through the chassis. All my engine hoses were replaced in 2008 during a rebuild and are holding up fine. But I developed a major leak last week and traced it to the long hose at the front of the car, the one that conects to the T joint and returns hot water to the radiator. There was less than an inch of hose protruding from the chassis tunnel, and the (original?) hose clip had rusted away and broken off, and this is where my leak was. The 2 other clamps nearby (on the T joint) are also rusted almost through and I will replace those as well. Probably replace the T joint with stainless as well.
I am having a hell of a time trying to get some more hose to work with. I cannot get it to move at all, it is wedged into the tunnel with the 2nd hose. I was barely able to get a new hose clip around the hose and secure it, and the leak has stopped but I have no confidence in the repair. The old broken hose clip was actually wedged into the opening of the chassis tube as if it were being pulled backward towards the engine.
I am going to remove the T connector next and see if that frees up some movement. I have read on this board that someone makes aluminum pipe that replaces the 2 long hoses. Has anyone heard of this? That would be a much easier fix then trying to get 2 new long hoses threaded through the chassis tunnel (many posts on what a bi**h of a job that is).
Any comments welcome
Click to expand...

COMMENT: My Maserati Bora used aluminum tubes through a tunnel channel but there were standards and clamps to keep these from vibrating

UroTrash · Aug 28, 2012

Could you even get a pair of aluminum pipes thru the channel considering its length/rigidity and the angle of approach in a Dino?

synchro · Sep 6, 2012

Simon's response:

Simon Leach [email protected]

I looked at that… you would have to insulate the alloy you don’t want an air gap inside the tube with the pipes getting hot and cold as the condensation will promote rust! So the tight rubber hose is a better idea and the old stuff wasn’t bad anyway ! haven’t heard of any going bad so if it’s not broken don’t fix it !LOL!!!! Use green strip inch and a quarter piece a hole in the end of the hose and pull it through with a string

.. also a good idea is to weld a wire wheel on the end of a long rod you can put in a drill and clean them out real good all of them then! and apply a rust prevention solution before installing… Si

solly said: ↑

I have a problem with the long hoses running through the chassis. All my engine hoses were replaced in 2008 during a rebuild and are holding up fine. But I developed a major leak last week and traced it to the long hose at the front of the car, the one that conects to the T joint and returns hot water to the radiator. There was less than an inch of hose protruding from the chassis tunnel, and the (original?) hose clip had rusted away and broken off, and this is where my leak was. The 2 other clamps nearby (on the T joint) are also rusted almost through and I will replace those as well. Probably replace the T joint with stainless as well.
I am having a hell of a time trying to get some more hose to work with. I cannot get it to move at all, it is wedged into the tunnel with the 2nd hose. I was barely able to get a new hose clip around the hose and secure it, and the leak has stopped but I have no confidence in the repair. The old broken hose clip was actually wedged into the opening of the chassis tube as if it were being pulled backward towards the engine.
I am going to remove the T connector next and see if that frees up some movement. I have read on this board that someone makes aluminum pipe that replaces the 2 long hoses. Has anyone heard of this? That would be a much easier fix then trying to get 2 new long hoses threaded through the chassis tunnel (many posts on what a bi**h of a job that is).
Any comments welcome
Click to expand...

synchro · Oct 27, 2015

I recently replaced the tunnel hoses that run between the radiator and engine and found a marine grade application hose for a very reasonable $64 in 12' lengths. For some reason this pre-cut 12' length is actually cheaper than the 8.5 I needed, perhaps labor to custom cut?

SKU: 268947
Shields 200 Series, Exhaust / Water Hose, No Wire, 1-1/4" x 12-1/2'
Shields 200 Series - Marine Exhaust / Water Hose, No Wire

Changing the tunnel hoses was quick and easy.

abstamaria · Oct 27, 2015

Thanks again for this, Scott. Much appreciated.

Andy

ODDY · Nov 2, 2015

As an aside to the water hose replacement. Some 15 years ago I had all the aluminium hose connection points sleeved in stainless and they still all look like new.
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celestialcoop · Nov 3, 2015

Scott,
Thanks for the tip...just ordered them. My first attempt at changing hoses, a few years ago, was only partially successful. The O.D. of the new hoses that we had ordered (internal wire mesh marine) was too large to squeeze both through the tunnel. I ran out of time before a driving event and had to slide one of the original hoses back in. (I posted about my experience some time ago.) I'll get it right this time!

ODDY,
Very cool. Were the sleeves bonded/sealed to the aluminum necks?

Both,
Have a good one!
Coop

ODDY · Nov 3, 2015

Yes, the pipe ends were cleaned up and the sleeves epoxied over them. One for the purist as the sleeves are not visible once the hose is fitted.

dudlow · Nov 4, 2015

On such a technical thread amongst such skilled people I don't want to sound like a complete idiot...........but.....

when I drain the coolant I disconnect the lower radiator pipe, take the cap off the header tank and the bleed screw out of the rad, but it still takes ages to drain, and I think a load stays in the system. I then flush through with a hose in the header tank.
I put it back together, fill, then repeat after a short drive, but my coolant still looks a bit rusty.
Am I missing something, or is this the best way to do it.

I try and do this once a year, although it has run to two this time. Also, luckily I have the use of a ramp.

Any tips most welcome as its time to get wet and dirty again.

synchro · Nov 4, 2015

dudlow said: ↑

On such a technical thread amongst such skilled people I don't want to sound like a complete idiot...........but.....

when I drain the coolant I disconnect the lower radiator pipe, take the cap off the header tank and the bleed screw out of the rad, but it still takes ages to drain, and I think a load stays in the system. I then flush through with a hose in the header tank.
I put it back together, fill, then repeat after a short drive, but my coolant still looks a bit rusty.
Am I missing something, or is this the best way to do it.

I try and do this once a year, although it has run to two this time. Also, luckily I have the use of a ramp.

Any tips most welcome as its time to get wet and dirty again.
Click to expand...

That is the best way to do it, you just need to continue until you're happy.
After being down for painting over a year, I flushed my Dino 4 times with distilled water just as you did before it ran clear. That big hose is a superior escape for scale or precipitants than the tap.

ODDY · Nov 13, 2015

I had the dilemma of finding a suitable long lasting hose that I could be confident would last in this most inaccessible of locations. Much anguish later I came across Purosil 70 series 4 ply. The image is of the hoses I have recently removed from my car. They were installed in 1998 and don't seem to have deteriorated at all. Not cheap and only come in blue as far as I know?(For the purist they can be painted with a black rubber base painted).
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tom kinsman · Nov 16, 2015

Good information.....thank you.
Just took my Dino through a full mechanical Restoration. We found the long pipes needed replacing....rotten and ready to burst. All replaced with Stainless for long term comfort and reliability.

ODDY · Nov 16, 2015

G,day Tom,
My car is RHD and centre chassis tube is not straight as for a LHD. This makes it virtually impossible to fit metal tubes through it. The other reason for using silicone hose is that it reduces the heat transfer to the cabin which is a significant problem here in our hot climate.
No AC in my car.

tom kinsman · Nov 16, 2015

Gotcha....makes sense. I have AC and live in the PNW so much cooler.

daviekj · Apr 23, 2024 at 11:18 AM

Dino 246 GT Dec. 1973 E-series

Coolant system inspection & service and metal pipe replacement.

On inspection there were subtle signs of corrosion, so I ended up replacing them. Hopefully some useful bits and pieces in the report.

Other relevant references I came across:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/dino-diy-changing-hoses-and-coolant-pipes.237914/page-2#post-138533397
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/bradan-246-dino-restoration.345174/page-45#post-142092712
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/the-rejuvenation-of-02986.547953/page-30

Kevin

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