GT4 Oil Cooler Line Question

It's up to you to change both. Though figure on some oil coming out of bottom hose so plan appropriately

 

Do them both. Pull them out with the cooler. A good time to rebuild the cooler box and flap. You'll need a thin 30mm end wrench as a backup on the cooler so you don't twist the aluminum cooler ends off. A little heat on the joints helps also. A little residual oil mess, but no big deal. Here's a pic of the Snap-on version, well worth the $65.00.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

What size is that wrench?

 

https://store.snapon.com/Product-Details-LTAM2730-P633597.aspx

 

Nice. Thanks. Just bought one on e-bay for $39.

 

From the linked listing: 27 mm–30 mm 15° Offset Low Torque Slimline Metric Open End Wrench

 

Where are you going to get the replacement oil lines? According to the less than reliable mechanic who was servicing my 79 308 at that time replacement lines were impossible to obtain.

 

If you find NOS hoses, they are going to rotted out from age. Have them made up locally using your fittings. Find a local hot rod or hydraulic shop to help. Not expensive either.

 

I just recently took the cooler lines off of my QV after the car had been sitting for a week. I disconnected the lines at the oil filter and the block. The block is the low point and there was almost nothing that came out. It was disappointing to see how much oil has to pump before bearings see oil pressure.

 

Superformance shows them near the bottom of the 308 Engine page: Engine (General) Parts for Ferrari 308, 208, 288 GTO & F40 - Superformance
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The bearings get the oil first via the pump from the sump. Then to the filter and oil pressure monitor, then through the cooler and back to the sump.

 

How sure are you about that?

 

Well Brian, in my mind I was pretty sure, but after some poking around on the web, you are probably correct on the long path. I wasn't able to find an oil flow chart specific to the 308, but flow through the filter first is kind of a no brainer.
So from the oil pump through a tube or galley at the back of the block, through the (usually braided) oil hose up to the cooler, hose over to the filter, and then to engine lubrication does seem like a long journey.
Thanks for questioning my assumed knowledge. I always like to learn.

 

I think there's an oil diagram in the owners manual. Next time I'm in the garage I'll check it.

I think the path on a wet sump car is: oil pump, relief valve, across the block to the oil cooler input hose, oil cooler, oil cooler output hose, oil filter stand, oil filter, the other side of the oil filter stand that has the pressure light and gauge sensors and then down into the block where it splits up to go to the bearings.

 

Not a great pic but if you enlarge it;

This is a QV from the OM. I think the earlier cars had the cooler lines reversed?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

GT Car Parts makes the oil cooler lines correctly.

516 W. Lone Cactus Drive, Phoenix, Arizona, USA 85027
(623) 780 2200
[email protected]

 

I love GT Car Parts. Sometimes I go there just to get a peak of all the ferrari stuff

 

I was just at GT Car Parts while picking up my daughter from college. Cool place. But back to the post... I would think any auto parts store that services hydraulic systems (like back hoes) could make them for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I had to cut through the nuts to get the hoses off the cooler on my 328. Aluminium cooler + steel hose fitting = metal-metal corrosion.

Heat might fix it but I'm not sure if you could get it hot enough without damaging the cooler - and there will be residual oil in there

Careful application of a dremel cutter & a fine saw blade straight through one of the flats of the nut till I could just start to see the threads & then a twist with a big screwdriver. It split the nut & released it from the cooler.

 

I am having the hoses in my GT4 rebuilt by a local aviation parts shop. They tell me they cannot reuse my fittings due to the design. The fittings on the engine side are two different widths. I.e. Different OD's. I don't have the engine handy to see why nor the fittings to take pics so can someone tell me if this a clearance issue or have my hoses been remade at some point with a fitting of a different OD?