328 Inner Tie Rod - PLEASE HELP | Page 2 | FerrariChat

328 Inner Tie Rod - PLEASE HELP

Discussion in '308/328' started by phild328, Apr 25, 2016.

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  1. phild328

    phild328 Rookie

    Aug 2, 2004
    35
    Lebanon, PA
    Just wanted to give an update in case it helps anyone out. I did buy the $120 steering rack on ebay and it works fine. I had to get a different passenger side rack mount. The 328 has a rack that is thinner on the passenger side and has a different mount. The 308 has the same mount on both sides. So you can just buy any 308 mount.
    I tried the Toyota ES2382 tie rod end and it was a NO go. It had the right thread, but the taper was slightly off and it did not properly seat. So we can continue looking for a tie rod end cross reference.
    I figured I would need to get an alignment, so I did a couple other things that I have been putting off for many years. I replaced the front suspension bushings. Unfortunately, I bought a front end package and it came with original style bushings. After they are now on, I would have to recommend the energy suspension bushings. These new standard bushing are actually softer than the old bushings. The old bushings dried up and became harder, and actually better. So if your bushings just have cracking along the outer edges, just let them go. Pry on them and if they don't move around, leave them alone until you need to do them and then do the energy suspension mod since it would make it easier, plus drive better.
    I also installed QA1 shocks and eibach coils. I went with 325 up front and 300 rear. I have the QA1's set to 5. It seems much softer than stock. Which gives it a little bit of an unsettled feel. Though it is much more balanced taking a hard corner. I would get oversteer and fishtailing before and it doesn't do that now. I haven't had time yet to dial up the shocks. I think I saw some people recommend 8. This softer feel to the car does make it more forgiving on the potholes. Before the whole car rattled around. I figure I can get it tighter by turning up the shock, but I think a stiffer spring to start would help, maybe 375/350. Though now that I have them in, I can always get new springs down the road and really dial it in to my liking.
    I also lowered the car a bit. I was shooting for 25-3/4in ride height at the top of the wheel arch to the floor. I had a completely frustrating time trying the get the car level, and it still isn't. It is off by 1/8th or maybe even a 1/4in at a corner. Doing this has really shown me that the only way to set up this car is by having the corner weights set. But I didn't have scales, and I don't know where I can go near me. It is close the way it is, I assumed the springs were accurate and so I set the shock collar height the same on each side. If you are doing the QA1 conversion, I do recommend the "paperweights" and the rest of the recommended supplies. One thing I did ponder is that I put on the bump stops that are recommended, but did anyone ever calculate what the bump stop should be? I think it should be enough to keep the wheel from contacting the fender liner. I drive aggressively on windy hilly country roads, and I have had wheels leave the road, so I am a little worried about what happens when the car comes back down with these QA1's.
     

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