EZcarlift

Maxjax is not a permanent install, the anchors stay in place, but you can remove the bolts that hold the uprights in place and roll them out of the way.

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I do own an EZ Carlift, which I've used with my 1988 328 GTS for over 3 years now... and I do all my own wrenching, from stem to stern. Here are my comments:

I use it ONLY with a pair of 3/8" x 12" x 50" aluminum reinforcing plates on the rails. (which I sourced from my local Metals 4U supplier). The rails are too flexible without reinforcement - mine bowed nearly 3/4" when lifting the car normally. I was not comfortable getting under the car without the reinforcing plates.

I use hockey pucks at all 4 frame rail lift points, to avoid damage to the car - mainly the rocker panel lips.

I don't use jack stands under the car any more, except to support a suspension arm or something if I need to.

I bought the ramps thinking I could use them to drive up onto the lift. I bent the ramps the first time I used them, and still could not drive onto the lift. I don't recommend the ramps.

I store the lift standing/leaning against the wall in my garage. I slide it under the car from the side. The lift is light enough for me to lift and carry alone, but it is very heavy and unwieldy. 2 people would be better.

I have used the lift outside in my exposed aggregate driveway, and it worked fine.

I normally use the lift in my smooth concrete-floor garage. (8 ft. ceiling) It works fine there. However, I cannot fully open the engine cover, if the car is fully lifted.

My car has too little ground clearance to slide the lift under the car. I first use a floor jack to lift the car onto roller dollies at all 4 wheels (a 2" pad under each wheel would work fine). Then I slide the lift under the car, place the reinforcing plates, place the 4 hockey pucks in position under the 4 jack points, and then lift the car. Note that this requires garage floor space 2X the width of the car, to lay the lift down on the floor and then slide it under... I get by with less than 2X by "walking" the lift partway under the car, then setting it down on its wheels, to roll it underneath.

I use a heavy duty gear-reduced corded drill to drive the lift screw. Because it runs at 900 rpm, it takes about 8 minutes to raise it from zero to 26". My rechargeable 1/2" drill has too little torque to drive it UP. A much less torquey drill can be used to lower the lift. A 'normal' 3/8" VSR drill overheats when driving it UP, but works fine lowering the lift.

All in all, the process of getting my car onto the EZ Carlift takes about 20 minutes.

When on the lift (lifted at the 4 jack points on the frame), my car flexes (sags) enough that the passenger's door will not open or close, because the latch pin doesn't align with the socket. The Driver's door is okay.

I can lay or sit under the car, at full height.

I've done everything from Brake jobs to wheel bearing repacks, to bushing replacements, to Timing Belts, to air conditioning upgrades (replacing the two rocker panel hoses), to gas tank removal/replacement, essentially a complete mechanical restoration of the car, using this lift. It works well. There's never been any operation on my car that this lift won't support. (pun intended)

I do run the engine with the car on the lift, but I don't engage the drive wheels.

When on the lift, access is limited/impossible to the nuts on the lower gas tank support straps.

If you don't position the lift correctly, the cross rails can limit access to the gasoline drain plug on the fuel tank crossover pipe. The cross rail limits access to the shift shaft coupler, but it's workable. Same thing for the oil pan, but thoughtful positioning of the lift will help with that interference.

I use the lift even to kneel beside the car and work on the interior - for instance removing and replacing the a/c evaporator assembly for rebuild. I also use the lift to raise the car for lower body detailing - rocker panels, spoiler care, rear grille maintenance.

Maintenance has been minimal - I lube the lead screws often, and I wipe it down whenever I splatter stuff on it or spill (gasoline or coolant) on it. I NEVER allow abrasives (media blasting or otherwise) near it, because the lead screws are exposed and lubricated with grease.

All in all, the EZ Carlift works well for me. I'd recommend it to others, but only WITH some sort of reinforcement plates, and the accepting the inconvenience of having to pre-lift the car to get enough clearance to roll it under from the side.

 

+1 Thank you ZOOOOMZ for telling us of your experiences.

The pre-lift procedure puts me off this lift. I will look for other lifts that a) fit in the space I have and b) don't require me to jack the car up beforehand.

 

Brian, as Alden said, the MaxJax is technically "portable". Not in the sense that you could haul it over to your buddy's place but you can un-mount the posts and store it all in a corner. I got mine for $1999 on Amazon with free shipping and no tax. As I said earlier my only problem was my standard garage door opener which hung down to about seven feet right over the spot where I wanted to center my lift. I replaced it with a jack-shaft style that mounts on the wall. The MaxJax works very well, I can roll under the car sitting in my office chair when raised to the full height with no extensions. There are 3 inch and 6 inch pad extensions but not needed for the 308.