I am going to winter storage my 360 for the first time this winter. What do I have to do to maintain the car perfect? I have a ctek charger I am going to use. And after that I am blind.. hehe Fill the gas all the way up? Change oil before starting it up in the spring? Thanks for your inputs
I've been doing that for 13 years starting with a Mondial then F355 and now my 360. I have a dehumidified garage, Ferrari cover and Optimate charger. I don't pump up the tyres or put it on stands. I leave whatever fuel is in the tank. It's from October/November through April/May so about 6 months. I don't start it unless I want it out of my garage. There are plenty of views and ideas on what you should or should not do. I have used a Carcoon before now but my garage is a bit too small so I swapped it for a dehumidifier.
http://www.ferrarimaseratiofvancouver.com/storing-ferrari-maserati-for-the-winter/ Make sure the vehicle’s service is up to date: The various fluids that are used in your vehicle start to loose their protective properties with age and mileage. A rule of thumb is that engine oil should be replaced at least once a year and the other fluids (brake, steering, coolant, gearbox/differential) every 2 years. Fill up the fuel tank. The reason for this is that where there is air there is moisture which contaminates the fuel and can cause rust in older vehicle fuel systems. If the vehicle is going to be in storage for less than 1 year, fuel stabilizers are not needed. Inflate the tires to around 45 psi to reduce the size of the flat spots on the tires that occur when the vehicle stands on the same patch of tire for a prolonged time. Never exceed the maximum pressure marked on the tire sidewall. Use a battery maintainer to keep the battery at the proper voltage. The genuine Ferrari/Maserati chargers are safe to be left plugged in all season long. Get a full interior and exterior detailing. This ensures that the paint, leather and rubber trim have a protective coating prior to storing. A genuine Ferrari/Maserati car cover will give your vehicle that extra line of defence. I bolded the important ones. This oncoming winter is my 1st with any vehicle what I'm not using for 6 straight months. I've had plenty of "hobby cars" but every one has been ... well "winter usable", like Porsche's etc. So I've taken those out for a 1-2 hour drive like once every month or so. Living on a country where weather during winter is really poor, roads are being excessively salted etc. So I doubt I'll be able to drive her until next April. Also I'm not able to leave windows 1" open because of my car sits on a garage downstairs of a apartment building. So I'm gonna inflate tires, put her on a CTEK and I'll tuck her in with a warm blanket (car cover). I'm 50/50 with the idea of starting her up periodically (like once a month) and let her idle for 15-20 min, up to full running temps.
Yes I forgot to mention. I asked the independant about oil change. They said as it might take on (little chance though) some moisture whilst stored, the fluid change I should leave for the new season. I did store it on axle stands one year when stored at my parents. I took it off the axle stands without applying the handbrake (I always leave that off) and my father had a ramp down to his drive from the garage. The car although standing still for 10-15 minutes then decided to roll out. As above people do different things. I used to start the car once a month but was told that probably causes unnecessary wear as you know that the majority of engine wear is when it is cold. However many will say circulating oil around the engine protects it from moisture. My idea is to keep my garage (which is integral with the house and not detached) to between 45-55% humidity and no less than 12°C. This should minimise surface rust forming on brake discs (rotors) and I suspect other unpainted metal surfaces.
malc qv. I do what billy says however I do add fuel stabilizer. Not expensive and no harm done with possible benefit. On your post, I do not understand waiting until spring to replace fluids. Fluids contain contaminants and water that then sit for months uncirculated eating at your cars innards. With new fluids, there is minimal degradation if any when stored for 6 months or less and no water and contaminants. I always do my fluid changes before I store. Finally, unless you are starting once a week it is my understanding that you put it on the charger and let it sit. Dry starts are hard on the engine. One a season is better than one a month. However, it is good to hit the Starter for a second once a month. This changes the positions of the belts. Again, I thought Billy's post was one of the better ones I have seen on this topic. If you do a search you will find sources that research this stuff (GM engineers for instance) agree with Billy v most posts which are someone's opinion.
Bear in mind the cost of repairing a water/oil pump on a 430, i would be looking to run it monthly over the winter, to ensure the shaft seals dont throw their hand in
Thank you so much for very good inputs. I am building the garage now and hopefully it will be ready in a month or so. Ill drive her as long as I can
Where you live, you need a garage unless you are going to dig it out of the snow every morning-i hope u have good heating as the UK is cold enough in winter
I had the same questions about storing my 360 Modena and got some serious suggestions and some quite ridiculous ones. I was quite surprised as I thought FERRARI owners were a serious bunch but clearly some have a wry sense of humor. Be careful who you listen to and good luck.
I agree with what Billy.gif said. When I had my 430, I filled the tanks and added stabilizer. Inflated the tires to 45 psi (per the owners manual), and had it hooked up to a tender. One of the other things I did was take a couple of the 2'x2' foam flooring from Sears, cut them in two and put two of these under each wheel. This provides a "softer" floor for the tires to sit on and helps prevent flat spots. When I took my 430 out of storage after 5 months, the tires were perfect. Here is a link - http://www.sears.com/norsk-2-ft-x-2-ft-6-pack/p-00962361000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4#
My garage is heated. I live in the NE. I wash the car, put cover on and forget about it unless I need to move it. Yes, on a battery tender. Car sits typically 5 months a year. Before my Ferrari I did the same with a vet. Going on 15 years of this. Never a single issue. Don't over think it.
As I said lots of ideas and differing opinions. I do what I do from experience. At the outset of buying my first casual use car I did the same as the OP and asked. Over some 13 winter seasons I have worked out what seems to work best for me. I'm not sure how much water my oil takes on anyway (my biggest problem is mostly I don't use the car enough in the summer ) but the point is I have done this for years in my garage using these slightly differing methods and it has been fine. As below this is short term storage, we're not talking a year or years. I'm not advocating following what I do, merely telling what I do. My methods work for me and there is sooo much info out there as to the do's and dont's. Ultimately it is upto the owner what they decide. +1
To prevent square tires in the spring I go to HD, buy a 4x8 sheet of 1 1/2" thick styrofoam (comes in pink or blue), cut four large pieces to rest each wheel on. By springtime, the tires would have sunk into the foam and staying true round vs the tire flattening out since the concrete doesn't give. My $0.02
Malcqv. I understand your point. I think it is hard to know what really works without relying on information from engineers. In my opinion, successful Winter storage goes beyond whether the car starts and runs well in the spring. Damage to the internals on the engine may not show up for years nor be traceable to storage. with that said, beyond talking with automotive engineers, I have no way to prove my way is more effective. While I have been storing cars for some 20 years now, and tend to have pretty trouble free cars, is that due to proper storage, proper warm up, maintenance, good luck? I don't know.
I am always cautious about the first start after the winter hibernation (6 months here). With my old Porsche I remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over a few times to get some form of lube going before fully starting it. Is there a way to this with the 360?