Oh,,,, I get it. im running CIS cams. I am working on a F.A.S.T. corp. port injection mod. I guess Ill need new cams for this fun mod. Thanks for this Blog. Learning a lot. Edwardo
Almost ready to go in. I did the pressure test, zero seepage at the head gaskets. Double checked cam timing with the degree wheel after taking it apart again to modify the valve reliefs for more radial clearance and a slight drysump pump mod to clear the longer stroke. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My work is done. The rest is up to the owner. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Any HP ballpark estimate? I have a steel dry sump car in restoration for the past two years...motor hasn’t been touched!
such fantastic build and attention to detail... how does one check the headgasket seal on these pressurize the chamber through the spark plug hole? how much psi do you run through it...arent the pressures up to around 1200-1500 psi during a burn on a running motor?
The 2 valve wet sump ones make 335HP. 4 valve EFI around 375HP. I personally don't believe the 255HP claim of the dry sump engine vs 235HP for the wet sump. Running an extra pump creates parasitic losses and the windage tray in the wet sump cars would be pretty effective so Ill call it a wash. I like to say you get about a 100HP bump on a carb'd car.
You don't check cylinder pressure other than if I did a leak down test which would only be 100PSI. I run 16LBS on the cooling system and watch for it to drop over time and visually watch that the liner o-rings are sealing so its done prior to mounting it on the box.
Thanks. I always wondered about how adding a sump pump increased HP and assumed any difference between the dry and wet outputs was secondary to cam profile and carb set up differences. Appreciate your response. Keep up the great work!
