looking for a 2V 308 head removal tool,

I had to pull the engine on my 1979 308 GTS because the rear cam belt drive pulley bearing is toast with so much play in the shaft that the inner bearing is more than likely toast as well. vid. Since I've got the engine out, I may as well replace the sodium exhaust valves with stainless steel valves, and possibly work on the cylinders (I've got one cylinder that a leak-down indicates worn rings). The heads are as stuck on as you would expect of a 39 year old aluminum engine that has never been apart before. I've been applying a 50/50 mix of ATF & acetone on the head studs and block/ head seams applying heat and shock to the studs; and pounding a 2 x 4 with a 3 lb sledgehammer with very little results. It looks like I’m going to need some sort of puller. Before I have a machine shop make up a plate/ head removal tool, does anyone in the US have a made-up head removal tool for a 2V 308 that you are willing to lend, rent, or sell? Any advise will also be very much appreciated

 

Thanks for the responses.
derekw: great blog!
I've actually been applying 90 psi air to the cylinders one at a time as well. I got a crackling noise at the beginning that was very encouraging, but now I only get some very week bubbles around a few of the studs and a couple places where the head meets the block - very weak bubbles. I still get leak-down results that most would envy... I will try hanging by the heads, and look for some jacks that will fit in there, but the rope trick scares me. Before I result to the rope trick I'll make a puller similar to what eljaro in Spain posted a few years ago here, but I would think that there are a few already built out there available to rent or buy. If you're a pro you may use them over and over, but a DIY owner like myself only needs one once.
Thank you again!!

 

Mike: Great thread; lots of useful information. Looks like you have a great support group and access to lots of expertese & nice toys
Rob: Wow! very generous; thank you. PM sent. Nice people like you help make up for the dozens of scam emails and phone calles received each day. I'll continue to slather the 50/50 ATF-acetone and heat in the meantime
Thanks again

 

I took Nuvolari up on his kind and generous offer, and he sent his plate to me right away. My heads were so stuck that I had my doubts, but his plate works like a charm. It works unbelievably well. I used a 3/8" drive to pull the head.
I had been slathering a 50/50 ATF/acetone concoction several times a day for weeks, applying heat and shock to the head studs, pounding with a sledgehammer and 2 x 4 & 4 x 4s against the heads, and prying against good solid places on the head with absolutely no results. Nuvolari's picture in this thread is the best to show how it's set up, but here are a couple of my pictures of the first head pull. (no, I'm not the one that has a thing for red RTV on the intakes) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I'll I'll pull the other head tonight.
I can't thank Nuvolari enough. Without his plate those heads were not coming off. For months I dreaded the thought of my car turning out to be one of those sitting in a garage for years; thanks to Nuvolari that's not going to happen.

 

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I pulled the other head after work today - no drama at all.
Three studs for each head, six total, were perfect examples of Galvanic/Dissimilar Metal Corrosion. The color of the crud makes me think that none of the gallons of ATF/acetone concoction I slathered on the studs made it to where it was needed. The cylinder leak-down numbers while I was pounding with a 3 lb then 10 lb sledgehammer on 2 x 4s and 4 x 4s makes be thing that all the pounding in the world would not have removed the heads, and the same goes for all the prying with a crow bar on good solid points. Archimedes boasted that if given a place to stand he could move the earth.... He never tried to pull a head stuck on a 308. Those heads were not coming off without a plate puller. Again, I can never thank Nuvolari enough!

 

derekw:
Thanks for the tip on ceramic anti-seize and hight temp silicone.
No, I did not try the rope trick, and it may have worked...??? But I would have been very nervous trying it. The plate worked so well I can't describe how easy the heads came off with just a little patience. I had imagined using a 2-foot 1/2" breaker bar; I ended up using a 3/8" drive and holding the ratchet at it's head - no joke!

 

Kcabpilot:
do you have a picture of the QV head that shows why such a plate would not work? I noticed in one of your other threads that you also needed a tool to torque the head nuts.