Looking for “how to” on replacing rear wheel bearing

I’m back on this now and close to removing the hub. How does the e-brake cable come off the back of the hub?
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I think the answer was already posted in this thread

 

Yes it was. A clip or somthing then pull it through

 

Thanks, somehow missed it when going through the post. [emoji106]


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Sometimes I’m not that bright [emoji16] Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Here is my handbrake assembly. The cable fits over the hook you can see. Back off the cable adjustment first, unhook and the you can pull the cable out of the sleeve in the back of the hub. May be tight.

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Great - thank you [emoji1317] and for the photo


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One other question. I am assuming to get the bearings out of the hub I have to remove the parking brake assembly “off” the hub. I looked and did not see a thread on the removal. Is there anything I need to be aware of when removing and reassembling the parking brake to the hub? I’ll get some pictures and post while doing it for future reference for F Chatters.


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I would remove the parking brake assembly. Ive not changed the wheel bearings but had the hubs off. It will probably get in your way when you are working on it. Just note what goes where. There is nothing much to it apart from its a bit fiddly to refit. Its just a case of getting in there and doing it. I have a few more pictures of the set up if you need them so don't worry if you jumble the bits up. Tricky bit is the retaining springs and cups.

 

Here you go. I may as well post them up while I'm at it.

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Thank you for the help and great pictures! This is a lot of help.


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Does anyone have a suggestion on where to buy a ring nut socket that will fit this size ring nut?


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Not as hard as I thought. Daniel at Ricambi was able to help me. Getting both the socket and ring nut.

I see that Ricambi sells bearings that are listed on the exploded view.


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Ok, had some time today.
I’ve got the axle out of the hub. Now need to get the flange off so I can get to the bearings. See pictures.

My split bearing puller will not fit behind the flange. I think I may now how I’m going to pull it off, but was looking for suggestions.
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Did you see this one?
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/repacking-348-rear-wheel-bearings.247323/

 

Thanks, I looked at it. My hub looks completely different than that one in the link you provided. I was trying to figure out where he was talking about putting a drift and tapping out the race or bearing. The one in the thread must be a later 348.
I’ll get back on it in the morning.

Also, (and I’ll post pictures and steps once I’m done) The 45 mm ring nut socket purchased from Ricambi had a outside diameter slightly too large to fit inside the flange to get to the ring nut. It took me a couple hours of grinding away on it to make it fit.

 

Yes, yours is not the integrated bearing / hub. You have a typical bearing pressing into a housing.

 

Flange off and now to the bearings. Used a piece of wood across the part of the hub that faces away from the engine and a couple of sockets inside the hub. Then pulled it off using part of the split bearing puller.
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I can’t figure this out. How do I get the wheel bearings out. I bought 3 different type kits and can’t seem to make any of them work.
The toothed spacer inside the hub floats around between the two bearings so I can’t get a jaw puller to work.

The bearing adapter kit from Harbor Freight includes a bolt but not near long enough because this is a rear hub. Would work on a front hub.
The split bearing separator and puller won’t work.

Even if my bearing adapter kit did have a long enough bolt I don’t see how to make it work with that toothed spacer.

I’m at a loss. [emoji53]Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m probably overlooking the obvious.

Thanks in advance
Photos below

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Well I got it. Knocked the first one out with a long bolt from the bearing adapter kit and hammer Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Both bearings out. The inside bearing is the one making the noise although it wasn’t toast yet. I was actually relieved that one was going bad and all this for nothing. Also that It’s not a CV joint or something else. I’ll know for sure when I get it all back together and test drive. Will post again then. Again, I’ll summarize the entire process when all is complete for future reference for those with early 348’s.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

So all back together and no grinding anymore when I turn left. I ended up replacing the CV boots on both sides of the car while I had the car up on the jack stands. A few minor “hiccups” along the way, but thanks to many of you on F-Chat I was able to do the work myself, learn something about my car and save some money.

Photos and details too follow as soon as I have some time. Again a BIG thank you to those of you who replied with your suggestions and advice. [emoji106][emoji1317]