Oil filter cup removal tool

I use a strap wrench to remove it. Very cheap and works with many filters.

 

I recently switched to using one of these three-legged wrenches and they're awesome. Note that the cap type filter wrench that Superformance sells will fit the UFI filter but not other brands such as Baldwin.

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I use this as well for Baldwin filters. Never had an issue.


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I use my hands with rubber gloves on.

 

How do you torque it back on?

You don't. You're fired.

 

I was told, once the rubber gasket touches the base, turn the filter half a turn more by hand and stop.

 

That wives tale is why the cars have a reputation for blowing out seals. Ferrari has a torque spec for good reason.

 

Brian I have been doing this for 40 years without any problem but I would like to start my New Year resolution by doing it the proper way, would care to share what the Ferrari torque spec is?

 

I've seen a torque spec for other Ferrari oil filters (usually in the 21-25 nm range), but haven't seen one for the 3x8 in the OM, WSM, or SBs. I suppose it's one of those Italian oddities that the oil filter torque is so crucial, yet not plainly printed in any materials I've seen.

 

I spun twice in one weekend on other people's oil - both from loose filters. I went around the pits next meeting (scrutineers weren't interested) and checked that everyone had tightened their oil filters with a tool, and not by hand.

 

The torque spec is clearly stated on the filter (in both Italian and English).

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Ah. That explains it; I use B253 filters which have no torque # labeling.

 

Well, you need to go and tell the mechanical engineers at Baldwin that they've fallen for an old wives tale, because they specify right there on their oil filter for the 328 to tighten it 1 full turn (not half a turn, Mike) after contact with the mounting face, and that's what I do.

I don't believe I've seen a spec for oil filter torque in my 328 Technical Specs manual, but since you're factory trained perhaps you have access to information the rest of us don't.

 

Thanks for that info Ettore! Although I use Baldwin B253 filter, that translate to 18.5 ft lbs to 19 ft lbs which sounds about right.

 

My pleasure, happy New Year!

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OK, I see now, so that torque spec is from UFI, that makes much more sense. If I ever decide to use the UFI filter I'll use their torque spec, but for the Baldwin filters I'll continue to use the method that the Baldwin engineer specified.

 

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Here’s one from the Fram filter site:

 

I think that makes sense Stuart. If I recall, the Baldwin filter is smooth on top and there is no filter wrench capability like on the UFI. I have a dedicated filter wrench that I use to R/R the UFI filter.

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Yep. Here's the Baldwin (with labeling).

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And Baldwin's installation training vid:

 

Seems to me the best approach is to do whatever the maker of the current filter being used says to do - if it's "X turns after bottoming," do that. If it says "X ft lbs/NM of torque," do that!

Any car maker specs are not relevant to anything other than the OEM (at the time) filter. But even the OEM filter maker may have a different tightening spec on the (same part number) filter they produce in 2018 as opposed to the one produced in 198x due to various differences, most notably the material used in the "rubber" seal on the filter. Same is true of different brand filters for the same engine - they may have different tightening procedures.