Shift Seal Leaking Internally

Ask your dentist of a couple of old picks, next time you 'visit.'

They'll usually 'cough-up' a couple.


DO NOT mention '... for gun cleaning' unless you KNOW he/she is a shooter.

IF they are, then by all means mention it.

They then might even 'UP' the number of picks they give you.


Last time I asked for 'a couple' and walked away with over 20 old picks of various shapes.

 

ARRGGHHHH!!!! I can't take it anymore! Those are called Explorers, not picks. You can buy a set of them at Harbor Freight for much less than Tommy or I have to pay. They aren't very strong vis a vis pulling anything stuck in a car.

 

You're so picky.

 

Hm, I thought dentists have the best of the best. Back when my daughter had braces, one of the spring came loose and was poking her in the mouth. I tried to snip it with my automotive side cutter and it did not make a dent. The dentist just cut it off with his cutter, like that.

 

Why I never use them.

 

did you oil the seals first?

 

They will, but it won't happen overnight - mine took a couple of thousand miles.

 

Stock seals work fine and don't have that issue.

 

I imagine they probably do. Like most people when I did it I was looking for what was theoretically a "better solution" (I had the engine out at the time & it was a "while you are in there" job).

As is sometimes the case what seemed to be a good idea had unintended/unexpected consequences & they took longer to loosen up than I would have hoped for/expected. On the other side of that, they have loosened up & theoretically they should be a good , long lasting solution (at least they better be!) . You pays your money...….

 

And what was not a good long lasting solution about what we had? Most I replace are so old they are hard and break on removal. It takes a very long time for rubber to do that.
Improvement is good but I have yet to see an improvement.

 

The x rings I installed on mine have no stiffness.

 

I haven't done the math of "volume of oil" vs "dimensions of sump", but I suspect the rod is somewhat submerged in oil at rest. (Thus oil will leak from the front, if a bad seal.) There's 9+ qts down there at full rest. Otherwise, why would we drain the oil to do this procedure?

Some people use no sealant - and I believe that's the best approach if you can make that work for you. I'm not a fan of Permatex Red for the pan seals (or other seals on the car made of that paper/laminate material). I use Permatex Ultra Black when I find sealant necessary. Be sure to observe the cure/torque times. Also be sure you torque the pan nuts in the correct order. Trust me, it ends badly (eventually) if you don't.

 

you need to use the Permatex for gear oil on the cambio pan. I use a thin smear on both pans

 

What is the correct order? I don’t remember reading that anywhere.

 

kinda like a valve cover or head bolts,,, x pattern from center out. criss cross like

 

As above. And do the full torque over 2-3 passes, not all at once.

 

the sealant I use says to finger tight and sit for one hour. then torque. I do a x pattern over multiple times till I reach torque

 

yes that's what ive used. I also use stat o seal washers on the studs

 

If oil is getting to the studs and dripping down past the nut (which the studs are in a blind hole) then your gasket seal failed. Just saying.....

I use klingersil gaskets dry with no oil leaks. But others have various opinions I’m sure.....