Going to lower our red gts. What do you guys think is possible on the standard F355 using stock suspension with some adjustments / alignment? What are the typical measurements on the euro cars vs US? Here are the measurements on our cars - center of wheel to flat lip of fender... Red F355 gts Front - 67.25 cm Rear - 68.25 cm Our Challenge F355 Front - 62.5 cm Rear - 66.5 cm Look forward to what you all have tried and what you think is the perfect ride height for the street cars. Robb Image Unavailable, Please Login
Personally for ride and comfort on street car, the 355 is nearly perfect. I think you can lower the front a little to “level out” maybe an inch? The ride height specs are on Fchat somewhere. Dave had discussed it recently on a for sale thread. I will try and look for it. Honestly, I would go just a hair lower if none at all on street use. Will be curious to see what others say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your GTS looks lowered already to my eyes. Or maybe that's just because I'm used to seeing euro spec cars with gaping black voids between arch and tire.
Measuring from the center of a wheel to the fender arch is really not the way to do it IMO, mainly because not all 355s have the same fender fitments. Fender fitment was never part of the geometry set up at the factory. I set my Ferraris suspension up first to factory, with accurate measurements made from the center of the front/rear lower bone inner bolts to the level ground. Just winding the spring collars up and down just to make the fender gaps smaller, will play about with the correct factory ride hight. The above is just what I have done to my cars since I can remember. I have no doubt that some one will be along soon to say they just wind the springs down randomly, but to me that's just to random and sacrifices the cars Ballance and handling just for cosmetic looks. Like I said, just my opinion.
Robb, Rob Schermerhorn gives sound advice and recommendations in his Delta Vee Motorports website: Lowering Ferrari 512TR, 348, F355, 550, Mondial T…
Appreciate the discussion and links. I can’t stand the giant gaps between the tire and fender. About 2” on the gts. Almost 0 on the challenge car. So something in between would be best. I’ll be doing an alignment after the drop. Robb
The front wheels on my GTS are sky high well above the rear wheels. I feel the previous owner liked to hit things with the car so had it raised up. Looks like I have some reading to do too.
Its been 4 years since I lowered mine, but I seem to remember I ran out (or almost) of threads on the front coil overs, Otherwise, i would have gone lower. still plenty of threads on the rears. You probably will have to use different coil overs to go lower. IMO, these cars look best in the race car form, the street versions only came from the factory with high suspensions to accommodate for the variety of drivers and roads they will see in daily use, otherwise I am sure Ferrari would have had them all look like the challenge. Go as low as your streets will allow. I have to avoid certain gas stations and business ramps, but other than those few places I could drive slammed anywhere around here. As for measuring the ground the fender, it may not be the ideal way, but there nothing wrong with it since it directly correlates to the look your going for. Currently mine sits at 65.5 F and 67.6 R measured with my 19" pgs. I believe the car sits aprox 1.5cm lower with my OEM wheels. The lowest spot on the nose is my skid plates a 4.5in (11.4cm) On contrast, my stock height C6 Z06 was just under 3" so its by no means extreme Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is actually how it is, when set up at factory heights. After hitting a lot of stuff with my car underside, I had my car raise to oem height. It was a first for Ferrari of Seattle to have someone wanting their car raised. lol. The front gap was noticeably greater than the rear. I think the reason my car was so low was from settling of the springs, cause when my car was in for a major service a few years later, it had sunk in the front by over a cm, though the rear was fine. They actually used up all the threading on the shock in the front to get it back to the stock height the second time. Said if the springs continue to sag, I would require new springs in the front.
The Snap-On version was listed above. Has several options. Contact Snap-On online or your local dealer. They are slick and work well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There are two size "nuts" on the leg. The small size is for the locking nut, the larger for the spring platform nut. I have included a tape measure to help you know what sizes you might need if you have access to a choice of spanner/tools. These were not to bad a price when i bought them. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I know it is an old thread... The issue when measuring from ground to fender lip is that you can't compare with others because so many things could be different: tire size, tire pressure, and fender shape. By measuring from fender lip to center of the wheel cap you're removing the tire differences. Still not perfect, it is more precise this way to compare fender gap between cars.
Ferrari cars of this era were not square and could vary 2-3mm in twist across a brand new car, let alone one which has hit pot holes, curbs,... This is why the correct specification(s) are between the flat and level ground and the chassis side lower control arm pivot bolt. Also note: chassis rake is what one adjusts to set oversteer/understeer relationship. If you are never going to explore the top speed of your Ferrari, you can slam the car any way you like. I guarantee you will not like counter steering to correct oversteer on a 2 lane road over 100 MPH. {ask me how I know}
Unfortunately, in my country you're a criminal if you drive over 130km/h. and if you dare driving 50km/h over speed limit they can confiscate your car!