Gotcha John Yes I got the l8nk but they are 0 stock I phone bosch canada they said no stock in canada They claimed they phoned bosch usa and bosch usa said no stock till end of may. So I phoned and ordered on from Daniel. In Daniels defence his competion is maybe only cheaper when they have none ha ha.
Here's one on Ebay (Latvia), genuine Bosch 0232103006 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283122231378?ul_noapp=true). Other then the Ferraris (including the 355), it seems that it is also used on Chrysler Voyager, Mazda, Mercedes E-class and Skoda Superb. Image Unavailable, Please Login The cam sensor is also similar to the 348 and 355 crank sensors. Has anybody tried one of these as the 355 cam sensor?
This is one of the cheapest genuine Bosch (GBP 89) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-BOSCH-0-232-103-006/263340362627?epid=249591412&hash=item3d504f0b83:g:FHUAAOSwVlVaFqLg Plenty on Ebay if you search "Bosch 0232103006".
Well, that changed since I posted the link. Pretty sure they said In Stock then. And if you had the weather we are having here end of May wouldn't be a problem.
Apart from a different plug colour, the crank sensor (Bosch P/N 0261210126) has an exposed sensor (metal button on the end of the sensor). Significantly cheaper. Different internals?
The internals of this type of sensors is just a coil on a magnetised core (coil pickup). Two pins are to the coil and the third is to the cable shield which is grounded. If the resistance of the cam sensor is similar (+/- 10% I would say) to that of the crank sensor and if the lengths of their cylinders are the same, the crank sensor will probably work. If the cylinder of the crank sensor is a bit longer, it can be shimmed up to achieve the same "penetration". If the resistances are similar, one can cut the plastic over the face of his (bad) cam sensor to see how deep inside is the metal button (the core of the coil) and take that into account when determining the thickness of the shim to the crank sensor. One more thing to check is whether the cam sensor is also magnetised. Of course, the above will not be relevant if the cam sensor actually has something totally different inside in the same type of package as the coil pickup crank sensors. It might have electronics inside (Hall Effect Transistor, like the sensor on the 348s). If the 355 cam sensor is not magnetised (steel piece does not stick to it), then it might be electronic.
It is probably worth checking KIA and Hyundai Sonata cam sensors. They are sold on Ebay at $ 10-30. Example KIA sensor by Standard Motor Products: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Camshaft-Position-Sensor-for-Kia-Rio-2001-2005-PC633/113047775937?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57475%26meid%3D77d3767a8fd0444caca44fe38ac2f3b2%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D253698584241%26itm%3D113047775937&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Pics of KIA and Hyundai sensors: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The cam and crank sensors are not the same. The CRANKshaft sensor is a variable reluctance type, a coil wrapped around a magnet. The CAMshaft sensor is a Hall effect device. A variable reluctance sensor generates, more or less, a sine wave type signal. A Hall effect sensor is much more accurate and operates like a switch. A Hall effect sensor requires a bias voltage. The output of the crank sensor is RPM dependent. The higher the RPM the faster the spurs on the crank wheel pass the sensor and the greater the voltage generated and the wave form will also vary. The Hall Effect cam sensor output is not RPM dependent. As a spur passes the cam sensor the sensor switches on or off and the shape and magnitude of the signal is constant.
Some further clarification: the frequency of "on/off" as well as the durations of the "ons" and "offs" are rpm dependent.
I'm looking ) I see two crank sensors. So you fitted two (cheap Kia) variable reluctance type sensors to your crank and one (cheap Kia) variable reluctance type sensors to the camshaft on your 348? Variable reluctance sensors work on a different operating principle to Hall sensors. The cam sensor needs 12 volts to power the components inside the cam sensor. The crank sensors have no such components.
I don't think the Kia crank sensor works in the 348 cam phase sensor location. The mounting is very different. But, we are far from the original topic
The 348 has very differently shaped cam sensor. The KIA CRANK sensors are good for the 348's CRANK sensors only. As for the 355 cam sensor, it appears not to be the coil (reluctance) type but electronic (Hall Effect) sensor in a housing similar to what the reluctance type crank sensors have. The pictures I showed above are of KIA and Hyundai CAM sensors which look very similar to the 355 cam sensors. They also do not have the exposed metal button (the core of the coil) which suggests that they do not have a coil over a magnetic core at all but possibly a Hall Effect transistor inside. The first and the last picture (of actually the same sensor) show a flat on one side of the sensor which may mean that this is to avoid something or that they are side-triggered. The other two appear to be front-triggered, like the 355's sensors. For $12.80, I would give the Standard Motor Products one a try (the other one has a different plug).
You can fairly easily bench test the cam sensor (the following procedure is for Hall Effect sensors which the 355 cam sensors appear to be). First, disconnect the loom from the sensor and find out which pin is ground (should be Pin 3, according to the diagram; there should be pin numbers on the connectors). Then, switch the ignition on and find out which of the other two pins (in the loom) gets either +5V or +12V. The remaining pin is the signal. To bench test the sensor, connect power (5V or 12V, as what is present in the loom at ignition on) between the sensor ground pin and the pin which gets power supply with the ignition on. Connect a voltmeter between the ground and the signal pins - it should show zero volts. Bring a screw driver close to the face of the sensor - the voltmeter should read the same voltage as what is in the supply. Moving the screwdriver away should bring the reading back to zero.
For the cam sensor, pin 1 gets 12 volts from the car. Pin 2 (middle one) is the signal out. 3 is the earth.
I will try that tomorrow. Tonight I bled the brakes with the leonardo it sure makes that easy. I had bled them with my motive pressure bleeder but it did not bleed the abs. They were not rock until i did this. They feel better than they have in over 10 years. Will get back to everyone tomorrow night with results.
That is the case on 5.2 but on 2.7 (355) I see (looking at your easy to read diagram) that pins 1 & 2 both go to the ECU (3 to the ground). In view of this, the 2.7 cam sensors may be getting 5V from the ECU so, in the case of 2.7s, it is better to check the incoming voltage on pin 1 before doing the bench test.
So I hooked 12.5 volts to the pins 1 and 3. Green and black I used the same polarity the car was outputing which corresponded to Ian's diagram The signal wire pink was jumping all over from 180 to 60 mv but when i moved the screwdriver onto the magnet I get a consistent 4.6 mv That is steady Maybe someone can tell me why Ians diagram shows .5 to each wire
That's the wire size, Grant. This is the most common size. I believe it means the wire conductor is 0.5mm². You can get smaller, but its usually not shown on the diagrams. The battery cable is "35".
First, is your car 5.2 or 2.7? If 5.2, the 12V (12-14V) between pins 3 & 1 is correct (+ on pin 1). When you bring a screw driver to the face of the sensor, the voltmeter between pins 3 & 2 should read 12V (or whatever is the supply voltage). As the signal wire (pin 2) may actually be switched to ground, do another test with the voltmeter connected between pins 1 & 2, positive probe of the voltmeter to pin 1. If this does not show any off/on switching (0 and 12 volts), the sensor is probably bad. Another way to test Hall Effect sensors if to use a small LED diode instead of the voltmeter. The LED should lite-up when the sensor face is touched by a screwdriver. If the sensor operates at 12V, then a 1 Kohm resistor must be used in series with the diode. In the case of 5V supply, a 470 Ohm resistor should be used for the LED. Also, after connecting the resistor in series, the diode should first be tested with a battery to determine its polarity. Then (depending on the type of the Hall Effect sensor), if connected between the sensor pins 3 & 2, negative side of the LED should go the the pin 3; if connected between the sensor pins 1 & 2, positive side of the LED should go to pin 1. If the test with an LED also fails, the sensor is certainly bad.
