Here you go a complete DIY instructions for removing and replacing transmission gearbox mount bushing. Again, just like my other posts, I'm here to share knowledge & experience so I can help others. Im not here to debate or argue with anyone as I have better things to do. If this info has helped you a simple thanks goes a long way. Here you go. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login During my 2006 F430 Spider PPI 2 years ago it was noted presence of abnormal engine vibration during idle. Recommendation was engine mounts and transmission mount replacement needed. I was quoted $800.00 to replace engine mounts and $1.5K to replace transmission mounts. I decided to do it all myself. I replaced engine mounts 6 months ago. Super easy. Done. I have a post here somewhere on that. Now its time to replace transmission mounts. Parts are less than $500 including the Hill Engineering removal Tool so I did it myself, all done, proud of my work, now I can take my wife out to a nice dinner. Top level summary: If you are not patient nor have the tools you will need or not very mechanically inclined I recommend just let someone else do it for you. Took me 20 hours total from start to finish. And that dang bushing is in there super tight. I did battle with bushing removal for almost 4 hours trying to get that dang thing out as it was in there super tight. You will need the Hill Engineering removal & installation tool. You can get both parts either at Ricambi or Superformance UK for best prices and great customer service. If you still want to proceed and do it yourself please see attached DIY instructions including pdf copies of workshop manual step by step procedures. Hope this helps some of you. I will post more photos tonight. Dan
Here are some photos for sharing Dan . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some more photos to give you an idea on what's involved with this project. Dan Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What the Heck, Great job documenting your DIY Trans Mount Replacement, Did you try to remove the bearing with the engine frame in place? While searching this forum I found pictures of the removal tool in place just below the engine frame? I attached the pic below. Not doubting you in anyway......just trying to avoid additional work. Thanks again for your very thorough explanation! Brian
Hi Brian, I have read some posts here of not having to remove the gearbox frame and been successful at doing so but Im afraid of damaging something so I removed the gearbox frame. I followed the WSM exactly as written. Dan
Dan, Thanks again for the response.....couple of additional questions. It appears from the pics that the car is jacked up in back, if so why did you do that? Also did you have to remove the flat cover under the motor or just the diffuser to put the jack under the gearbox? Thank You, Brian
Love the pictures Dan! If not for this particular job, at least I can see other parts of the engine bay for other work.
I followed exactly the workshop manual. You will need to jack up the gearbox to release the tension on the bushing bolt to make the bushing bolt removal easier. I removed all of my under panels as this is the best time to also inspect the rest of the car. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Dan I am deep into this project and have followed all of the steps you outlined. The engine support appears to be wedged into the frame of the car and I can’t seem to get it loose, did you have this problem? Any suggestions? Again thank you for your help
You mean the gearbox frame? If yes, then yes, the gearbox frame is stuck on there pretty good as it's been there undisturbed the last 10 years. Spray generous amount of penetrating oil on the gearbox frame brackets. Then use rubber hammer to hammer out facing aft to slide the gearbox frame out little by little. You need to slide the gearbox frame out perfectly straight or it will get stuck and won't come out. Patience is needed. Call me tonight if you need more info. I'm currently at work and in meetings. Dan 425-931-1411. Leave me a voicemail if I'm not answering and I'll call you back as soon as I can. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
With this gear box bushing being that tight, would it help to gentle heat the alloy housing to make it easier to come out- say a gas plumbing torch ?
Yes, I actually had to use a plumbing soldering torch to heat it up and make it easier to come out. But you have to be very careful not to burn anything unintentionally around that area. Also the gearbox housing is huge and it will take a while to heat it up to about 200F.
I also had this problem on my 360, i ended up hitting it with a hammer and 2x4 from underneath to get it loose.
On my 360 I replaced the earlier bush with the 430 one you removed/replaced. I took the bush out without the HE tool by chewing the middle out with a hole cutter then cutting two grooves nearly through the outer shell with a hacksaw. I then used a small cold chisel the remove the material in between the grooves, pushing it up and over and through the centre tearing the remaining metal. Once your about 2/3 across it just fall out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Use a torque wrench when reinstalling the bush so you don’t strip the threads on the tools. If it’s an early 360 and you fit the 430 one you will need two spacers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Question- for those who have done this work..... have any of you tried leaving the frame in place, but jacked it up a bit, so you don’t need to take it all the way out? Also... if you did take it out, how hard was it to get it back in place again? It looks like there are a lot of bits that can be snagged.
100% that silver brace (frame?) needs to come out. Used normal tools and it went totally fine for me. Like sure you could punish yourself working around not taking it out but I am about 1 beer projects these days. Using tool from this post https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/changing-gearbox-bushing.560045/ BTW add the trans mount heat shield that protects from thermal wear.
I'm interested to know the correct orientation of the diamond aluminum piece in the middle ? Not sure vertical makes sense to me .
Interesting point...... are you thinking there would be more cushioning effect if it had a horizontal orientation? I wonder if having a horizontal orientation might allow it to sag even more??? Good question- if someone knows the answer, please enlighten us.
360 Trans Mount Bushing Position? https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/index.php?threads/360-Trans-Mount-Bushing-Position%3F.512048/ Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
No reason to do that when it's so easy to come out. You'll have to remove just as much to jack it up as to remove it, so the extra 10 minutes of work on the front end makes it worth it. It's a tight fit though, so a rubber mallet comes in handy.