A real 308 QV / 328 head removal option | FerrariChat

A real 308 QV / 328 head removal option

Discussion in '308/328' started by akitaman, Oct 23, 2019.

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  1. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

    Nov 23, 2006
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    Daron Walker
    #1 akitaman, Oct 23, 2019
    Hi gang, I have been on the Ferrari chat reading others threads for years. I finally bought my dream car, in the exact options I wanted. A 85 308 QV, Red but with the black interior instead of tan. This original one owner, 40K car came up for sale a few years ago. My close friend was the only (real Ferrari mechanic) that has ever serviced this car from day one. He was the one who connected me to the owner. The owner never drove in the rain or at night in this car. But one day he (three years ago) was driving and the water pump belt broke and it over heated. That was the last day it moved on its own. His health diminished and he past away less than a year later (93 years old). The widow decided to sell it to me six months ago after almost two years of talking about it with me.
    Now it was time to fix it. The heads would not, could not release from the block. Heat, EVERY penetrant, modified 512 head pulling tools and every combination in-between would not work. So, I made my own tools. and they worked perfectly. I have provided pictures of those tools so you or whom ever is working on your 308QV or 328 with this problem can copy and get your heads off. I hope you find this helpful.

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  2. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran

    Jan 15, 2007
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    Kim
    #2 308 milano, Oct 23, 2019
    Can’t believe you didn’t just pull the head with the engine still in the car, a lot less work. (just kidding and poking a little fun at a previous thread on the subject) :)
    Well done!
     
    Brian Harper, Jbrauer, akitaman and 1 other person like this.
  3. kcabpilot

    kcabpilot Formula 3

    Apr 17, 2014
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    #3 kcabpilot, Oct 24, 2019
    I had been imagining in my mind what such a tool would look like as I prepared to pull my heads off last year. Fortunately for me it required only a couple of taps on each end and they came right off. My car had 60,000 miles at the time and there was no internal corrosion of any sort and it leads me to wonder what circumstances might be the cause of this corrosion if it does exist?
     
    ntb308gtsi and akitaman like this.
  4. offtheworkigo

    offtheworkigo Karting

    Feb 23, 2016
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    Rockwall
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    #4 offtheworkigo, Oct 24, 2019
    Hope I never have to remove my heads. You should just rent your tool out. Not everybody can weld and make a tool like that. That took some time to make that.
     
    akitaman likes this.
  5. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
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    Mitchell Le
    #5 yelcab, Oct 24, 2019
    Damn, that is ingenuity. Great work. Show the flywheel end of the tools. Where does the tool mount to?
     
    akitaman likes this.
  6. derekw

    derekw Formula 3
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    Sep 7, 2010
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    #6 derekw, Oct 24, 2019
    Have you put a straight edge on the heads to check if they are still straight? The other head pullers I have seen press down on all the studs so pressure is more evenly spread. If this worked without bending the heads it is an easier option for a DIY puller.
     
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  7. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

    Nov 23, 2006
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    Daron Walker
    #7 akitaman, Oct 24, 2019
    The corrosion in this case is called galvanic action. And its when aluminum and steel stay in contact. The aluminum corrodes, the powdered byproduct does not break down with solvents or penetrants. This action can and will accelerate with inactivity. Meaning the less time the radiator fluid moves the more action happens. With that said, if a motor overheats, the ever so slight shift of the head studs binds the studs against the corrosion and stuck heads are the results
     
  8. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

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    Daron Walker
    #8 akitaman, Oct 24, 2019
    Well, being a former mechanical engineer the plans came to me in a dream.... really it did. I made them in a crude fashion as to make modifications on the go if needed. Now, I will make them better and TIG weld them instead. But really, I just want to post the tools for those whom have this challenge and share a fix. None the less, thanks for the very kind words.
     
  9. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

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    Daron Walker
    #9 akitaman, Oct 24, 2019
    Thanks for the kind words, I did post the flywheel side. Do you need a better picture?
     
  10. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

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    #10 akitaman, Oct 24, 2019
    They are still very straight. The load is not as aggressive as it seams. We tried a modified 512 head puller to do exactly as you stated. However two challenges came from that. One, the exposed head studs are only 3/4 of an inch at best and that would not be enough. Especially when the galvanic action was well over an 1-1/2 inches of the stud. Two, there was three studs on one head and two studs on the other head that were corroded. this means that the pressure on the spark plug bungs was massive and I was not willing to press my luck. So, I reinvented the wheel.
     
  11. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    #11 Hinecker, Oct 25, 2019
    Afternoon Daron,
    I recently finished rebuilding the engine on my 328(pretty much the same engine). It's your car and you can go as you wish, I would recommend checking the flatness of both heads and the block(where the heads sit). Don't be surprised if you find something is warped.
    Another point to check at this stage are the timing bearings(the ones on the block and the ones on the cover) and the gears. The inner shafts on my gears were worn and didn't press tight inside the bearing. If this is your case, the shafts can be repaired.

    Just my opinion,

    Good luck and keep posting.

    John.
     
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  12. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

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    #12 akitaman, Oct 25, 2019
    I like the recommendations! I absolutely agree, everything is going to be mic'd, inspected, measured and tested. EVERYTHING
     
  13. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    #13 Brian Harper, Oct 26, 2019
    I think you accidentally pointed out the real culprit and why some studs have issues and other don't. The studs should be dry, coolant doesn't (shouldn't!) pass around them. If the headgasket seeps any water into the head stud bores then the action you mention occurs and the head sticks. If the headgasket is super tight then the heads slide right off like kcbapilot's did.
     
    waymar likes this.
  14. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

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    #14 akitaman, Oct 27, 2019
     
  15. akitaman

    akitaman Rookie

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    #15 akitaman, Oct 27, 2019
    Hahahahaha! Yes I kinda went off course. The difference between galvanic action and electrolysis.
     
  16. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    #16 Hinecker, Oct 28, 2019
    If you want advice or pictures of the process, just let me know.

    John
     
  17. david bentley

    david bentley Karting

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    #17 david bentley, Oct 28, 2019
    Well done..once an ME....always an ME......me to!
     
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