Three years ago i was also unlucky with a broken valve ........ So when the valves are 40 years or older always replace them. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The piston is garbage. Original pistons are cast and with a mark like that it is prone to failure. You got off lucky once don’t expect a second.
Well you have won the lottery in way...... Bad news is that pistons are not available, unless maybe a good salvage one?? Trouble is you still have seven good ones! But, you are very lucky that happened and did not trash the engine badly.
The engine had to be rebuild totally, no mix with old and new parts because than there is a great risk for next damage. When you are so far than also for example new exhaustsysteem. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The stem isn’t the only part of a valve that can fail. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
A very very lot of sealings, And ready for coming home. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If it helps, I may have a serviceable piston from when my engine was rebuilt 20-something years ago. I'm in the UK.
2v USA cars with cat and high mileage: God bless you if you still have OEM Sodium exhaust valves. Change them, unless you own a low mileage car (and you don't want to drive it much agian) ciao
Buy a used piston. I have some if you don’t find them in the US. I have updated 21-4N stainless valves for £10ea and you’ll need the guides lined (good engine shops will have the 8mm guide sleeves and tool.) I have viton stem seals £1ea. Change the rings and bearings while it’s out along with all seals (diff, shifter, cam drive bearing etc)
Yes, of course: but for the cat cars the problem comes out earlier, as the cat raises exhaust temperatures and so the exhaust valves thermal stress. But It's not an age problem, like it happens for rubber parts: it's a mileage only problem. ciao
Good, thank you. That was my guess I do have that "Damocles Sword" on my neck, there is only one carbon copy invoice from the 80's mentioning 'valves' but not the work done in a almost ilegible hand written. So I dont know whether those d**m valves are still in the car My guess is that they are not as I reached 63K documented miles and nothing happens yet so.... they were replaced... hopefully.... We love these cars, dont we? Regards Julio
Apparently the stainless steel aftermarket ones are not magnetic. The OEM sodium/ steel are magnetic. Perhaps the best access is from the top .....under the cam covers .....try a small magnet from that end . You might be in there anyhow....fixing oil leaks , doing the clearance etc . Or if the exhaust manifolds or Carbs are off ...,,you could turn the engine and try the magnetic test . Obviously taking necessary precautions not to drop anything in .
To access the valve tip with a magnet you do need to remove the cam cover, camshaft, and cam bucket. Quite a lot of dis-assembly to run a test that can be deceptive at best. I changed my OEM valves to Stainless a few years ago and, out of curiosity, tried a magnetic test between the two installed valves and there was not a definitive difference in pull between the stainless and non stainless valves. I believe that the steel keepers and spring retainer make it difficult to determine if the valve is stainless with a magnet.
Look at my engine rebuild— google Derek’s 308 and I describe how to test the valves via the plug hole. There are a lot of 2V engines with high miles so it seems random or perhaps related to oil quality, driving style, fuel quality etc. As many know, the guides are soft, wear, and the eccentric closing of the valves with over-specified springs causes fatigue at the weld joining the head to the stem.
Yes, lots left both inlet and exhaust. I have a range of lengths (.020” range) so depending on your seat wear I can usually find some to give a usable shim thickness. Get your guides lined if they are loose (don’t buy new guides unless they are undersized and you can index cut them concentric with the seats. If you fit new guides and cut the seats you will sink the valves into the heads and the shims to give correct clearance will be too thin. £10 per valve, £2 per viton stem seal (butyl seals in most gasket sets are not suitable for exhaust valves.)
Just to let you know not all stainless steel are none magnetic. I have some SS valve from or for my Fiat/Lancia and I can still feel some kind of magnetic in them.