i added a zddp package to the 328 oil and now have slow down light and am thinking about cat vs test pipe. I am on a historic registration with limited miles but no inspection so test pipe is OK. Do you run the oil with no additive or do you add the test pipe? Thank you from new owner
sergio, i sold my 328 2yrs. ago due to lower back issues. however, blackstone labs always measured more than adequate ZDDP from the brad penn oil i was using at the time. also i installed a stainless test pipe. i chose not to return the "slow down" thermocouple in the new test pipe as there was no cat in use. i did fold up the wire lead and neatly hid it in the framing should someone desire to use it later. finally, i began using red line MTL gearbox oil which drastically reduced cold box crunch in 2nd gear.
I dont care what anyone says, I never use syn oil in my 89 328. It burns up in the combustion chamber , and it leaks out. My 89 has 105,000 miles, burns no oil, and it does not leak out. I use Valvoline 20 / 50 mineral with zinc for 25 years. My car runs like its brand new. I do use syn oil in my gearbox, its a no brainer. I dont care what Ferrari says, there quality control sucks ass , so theres that. They can take there oil recommendation and stick it in their asses along with their interiors that come unglued, **** suckers that they are. Big G
Gino, We know, you've made that painfully obvious over the years - but your stubborn ignorance of technical facts is not to your credit. I would most strongly recommend to others reading "recommendations" from Gino to keep the above statement in mind... and pretty much ignore his uninformed opinions that he presents as some sort of facts. Cheers, Gordon
I can only state the experience that I have had over 25 years with my car. I have the miles on my car that go along with what I have done to keep it up. The one time that a tech mistakenly used mobile 1 in my 328, a quart burned up in under 1000 miles, and it caused leaks, the same thing happened in my high performance Suzuki when I tried synthetic . I change my oil every 3000 miles with the Valvoline and I have had no issues. Synthetic oil is a waste of time and money in a 328. My opinions are not uninformed, they are all based on my experience. I will say it again, 105,000 miles driven, 85,000 driven PROPERLY IN MY 328 OVER 25 YEARS is all one needs to know. If one follows my care of the 328, they will obtain the same results . A good mineral oil changed every 3000 miles is the perfect regiment for a 328 . I dont agree that my opinions are uninformed, I can only state what I have experienced with my car, and I think with my results, Im doing one hell of a job caring for my Ferrari over the last 1/4 century. I am just stating what I have experienced with my car . I dont think that can be described as uninformed .Maybe folks on here drive their Ferraris like grandmas, I dont, and my motor is rock solid, I would not use syn oil if the dealer changed mine for free for the next 20 years . If syn oil was that good, and good for all cars, all the other oil would not sell and then would be discontinued . G
If you watch YouTube you’ll see plenty of evidence that cam failure is also a result of folks having little idea how to run in a flat tappet cam on a big pushrod V8. Either letting them idle at first start up or revving the nuts off them. I I run zinc additive in a big block I have here (opens folks eyes in the UK I can tell you!!). Unlikely it’s really needed. My 308 changes its own oil at least once a year. Not got around to sorting that yet!
I've used Mobil 1 0W40 in my 328 beginning 5 days after I purchased it in August /'08. It had freshly-changed Motul 20w50 in it when I bought it. I drove it 2700 miles to its new home and immediately changed to the Mobil 1. In the last cross-country trip - a 2500 mile move, it used less than 1/3 quart in that 2500 miles. Seemed pretty good to me! I have used syn oil (Mobil 1) in all my cars since it became available, including old muscle cars; I have never added anything to the oil and none of my old big-block US engines experienced any cam wear issues at all. I switched to syn oil back in my early days of performance/competition engine building when we discovered "free" HP on the dyno with Mobil 1 over conventional oils.
I became a huge believer when we went to synthetic in our Rodeck Chevy engines at Bonneville. Our cars ran telemetry on every pass and the difference from Valvoline Racing was immediately apparent and at tear down the difference was noticeable. Running a 370 inch 650 HP pushrod engine pass after pass essentially doing a dyno pull 5 miles long is stressful. The only engines I run dinosaur oil in are old Ferrari engines that are known for burning oil.