Mine seems a few clicks too slack.
Oh god the dreaded drum-in-hat parking brake. The Bain of my existence. I once sold a truck because of that design.
Anybody who had an old drum brake Corvette (C1) or Chevy can use that star wheel adjustment in their sleep. Do that first like the WSM says and then adjust the cable. Lock it up with the star wheel and then back it off the minimum number of clicks that completely frees up the disc.
Typically the parking brake shoes wear more than the parking brake cable stretches. I always adjust the parking brake shoes first. You have to raise the car and remove the rear wheels to access the star wheel adjusters. There is a hole in the outer part of the brake rotor hat. Look where the parking brake cable enters the brake backing plate and the star wheel adjuster will be 180 degrees from the cable entry point . Carefully turn the adjusters so that they cause the parking brake shoes to move outward. The starwheel adjusters are not made of steel, more like brass or some kind of pot-metal, so it is very easy to break the teeth off of them if you pry on them too hard. They will bind up if you tighten or loosen them to their limit of adjustment. I make sure that I am rotating them the correct direction by watching them with a small flashlight until they just stop moving and contact the inside of the brake rotor, then I back them off three teeth. I then check the parking brake lever, it should stop at 4-5 clicks, if not then the cable needs adjustment. If the car has sat for a long time, there will be corrosion on the parking brake surfaces, so you can clean it off by pre-burnishing the shoes and discs. I drive the car very slowly 5-10MPH and apply the parking brake to clean off the shoes/discs. Brian Brown San Francisco Motorsports
Brian, Thank you @Motob for that detailed explanation, I have an F430 with rear discs, my cable turnbuckle fully engulfs the screws threads) and my pads are almost full. Would you (or anyone) happen to know how to perform similar on discs? Thank you! John