Heat Exchanger Failuer

How much is a trans rebuild?
Assuming I remove it and ship it myself.
5$k. 10k$

my t56 rebuild was $2900 for a performance road racing rebuild. For reference.

 

I like this post.

 

I just replaced my heat exchanger. Here are some lessons learned:

• Be prepared with allen head screw extractors. Two of the allen head screws used to fasten the water pump body snapped.
• Use the OE wide clamps for tightening the rubber sleeves at the end of the HE. The replacement clamps I received from both Ricambi and Eurospares were too narrow. They tended to tighten at an angle that I feel would result in uneven tension around the HE. Although I couldn't feel that they were at an angle, an inspection with a mirror showed that they were, and when I removed them, the worm gear slots were worn to an extent that I wouldn't have reused them. The original clamps provide a more even tension and are the style used for forced induction purposes. Mine were in good shape, so I reused them.
• I spent the big bucks for new rubber sleeves. However, my old sleeves seemed to be perfectly fine. I probably should have inspected the old sleeves before I bought new ones.
• Do not tighten the HE clamps until you fasten trans oil lines to the transaxle. They must be installed at the correct angle to the transaxle, and the braided lines have very little give. You will probably have to turn the HE one way or the other to get the proper angle. Then, tighten the clamps.

I'll probably write a complete narrative later.

 

thank you so much for the tips its all getting done this Sunday! I am very interested to see if just the coolant system was contaminated and not the trans or rear . I had no problems shifting but we will see. I had a major done very recently to add! And my fans do not turn on at all by the way. Its gonna be a long sunday!

 

fan doesn't turn usually = air in coolant.

 

I did mine last February. I inspected the HX prior to installation and found a slight amount of debris in the tubes, that was easily removed with a brush and compressed air. I also thought that using brake clean to clean the tubes and tube sheet would be a good idea. Big mistake. The brake cleaner dissolved some of the coating - the drip pan I used to collect the waste brake clean was coated in a copper/gold residue. Thinking that I just ruined the HX, I emailed the factory in Italy. Fortunately, I learned that the coating is just applied for aesthetics and no damage was done. I also installed new washers for the oil lines. They are very pricey, but I didn't want to have to do the job twice.

 

You can get tube cleaning brushes specially for these types of coolers.

 

Well i have an update!!

loads of coolant in the rear and gearbox!!
Recently coolant was added at major that i just did 2 months ago .

I want to change the thermostat since we are in there . Heres a great question what thermostat can i buy that matches looks pretty standard to me will post a pic when i go grab it from the shop. Or is there an interchangeable part number anyone knows of.?

and i dont think it did any damage to my rear or gearbox thank god!! Then again was shifting fine! I will definitely be taking a close inspection left it all open to dry out .

 

Unfortunately, there isn't a certain method for ridding the transaxle from liquid contaminates. The consensus is multiple fills and drains; I doubt leaving the fill and drain plugs open will do much. I've drained mine two times and it isn't even off the stands yet. There are many opinions about what to fill the transaxle up with for flushing contaminates out. My first fill was 1 qt ATF, 1 pt isopropyl, and the rest 80w-90 gear oil. The second and third is just cheap 80w-90. I'll be driving about 50 miles with my current fill, and the next, and hopefully last, will be Redline.

Have you checked the transaxle filter? The filter during my first drain was coated with what looked like fine black gravel (I have no idea when the last time it was pulled and cleaned was). The second didn't have any, but the third had a little of the gravel-like contaminant. I hope that it wasn't synchro shards.

You haven't mentioned anything about your coolant. I didn't think that any gear oil got into my coolant. However, I noticed the faintest sheen of oil, only noticed in direct sunlight, during my 1st and 2nd coolant flush. I've since flushed it twice more. Unfortunately, draining the radiators and blowing the lines with compressed air only removes about half of the coolant. Even after flushing the system four times with 100% distilled water, there was still visible signs of coolant in the system.

My water pump housing hose bibs were corroded with a thick green buildup that required an abrasive to get off. Probably indicative of the infrequency of coolant changes. I fear that my radiators have something similar.

 

I’m going to get my HE replaced during a major this Summer.
Are you guys replacing with the OEM exchanger, or is there a upgraded unit made by someone else (Hill Engineering ?)

Thanks.

 

There's nothing else. I guess we're lucky that Ferrari is still making them. My HE was only a few months old.

 

Wait stop yes there is a after market option by a company that separates both i have posted about the company before on the forum . https://www.dynamtechgroup.com/ferrari-tranny-cooler.php

 

Please read thru the thread ! Ppl feel different ways about it .

 

i posted some pictures already showing loads of oil in the coolant already. Im pretty far up the creek without a paddle boys .
Anyway its still a work in progress i do have my guys working on it and not myself I decided to not go at this alone as it entailed alot .

 

I was told for the coolant side of things that along with a vaccum ...dawn soap actually to help break up the oil believe it or not . As for the gearbox and rear oil side im still exploring options but either way multiple fills and flushes on both ends seem inevitable.

 

Here are the new parts from ricambi along with the photos again of the coolant contamination.
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Surprisingly tho the transmission feels ok when shifting no noise . When i gave it the short quick drive over to my shop location. Trust me I didn’t want to do it being aware of the situation but you try getting a tow truck guy locally for 8 am on a sunday in queens nyc ! .... good luck my friend lol.

 

What i still can’t believe are the prices for those rubber sleeves i mean cmon really . I usually don’t complain about prices but at at least 250 from recambi for a sleeve even with a discount. Seems a little blatantly laughable.. its just rubber plastic and i didn’t receive new clamps either!? Some guys say they do and the just use the old ones because they are wider and seal better but whatever.

 

Yes, I did in post 28, above. And, if your experience mirrors mine, you won't even need those expensive rubber sleeves.

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im guessing you can get them somewhere else cheaper. Im open to hear about alternatives for future reference regarding the sleeves. I mean, I’m no ferrari guru . But i learn quick and i am very mechanically inclined.

 

I can say i am blessed to have some very very experienced ferrari old timers around me.

 

Mocal make an alternative. Has anyone used it? View attachment Mocal Ferrari heat exchanger FTC1.pdf

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The Ferrari heat exchangers avaiable now are upgraded from those originally fitted and which regularly failed. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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I have been around marine engines for many years and I have to say that the HX pictured looks like a gear cooler off of a marine engine.

I would bet money you could get a gear cooler that works very easy and inexpensively.


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is it better than OEM?

OEM is only like 500$ or $600