No, I have no way of reading pressure.
From what you are describing..your accumulator needs to be replaced as a first step. The pump should not be running that frequently. The purpose of the pump..and it's only purpose in the F1 system is to charge the accumulator. The system pressure is maintained by that pressure vessel. If you have a scan tool you can monitor pressure loss in real time. System pressure should be around 43bar at peak. Pump should kick on at 35bar (could be wrong on that but I think its around there) Accumulator charge time should be no more then 5-6 seconds.
Following excellent advice from fellow forumers, I found that after opening the car door the pump runs the proper time (5-6 seconds). But when I turn the ignition key on (no start) and shift from N to 1, then 1 to R, and so on the pump runs every time I shift. AND, when the ignition is on with no start, and no shifts, the pump runs a few seconds about every 20-30 seconds until I turn the key off. I sent it to the shop to replace the accumulator and bleed via computer/scan tool. THANKS ALL.
Update: I bought an accumulator and sent it with the car to a shop in Houston. They replaced the accumulator and say it still loses pressure. Thoughts?
Have shop remove actuator.check screws on actuator..bleed actuator Using those screws to bypass fluid back to reservoir and retighten screws .. Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
I can see various mistakes, F1 gear doesn't use ATF, it uses hydraulic fluid. Using ATF you're damaging the system even more. You say you overfilled the system, you shouldn't do that. Clearly your acumulator has failed and it need to be replaced for a new one (expensive) or it needs to be rebuild, (cheaper and recommended) Contact a shop that can rebuild your system and you'll save a lot of headaches with your car.
OK, so F1 hydraulic fluid (SHell Donax) is chemically very similar to ATF; many people use ATF instead of the Ferrari specified fluid. The accumulator is just a bottle with a rubber bladder inside it, and a nitrogen charge on the other side. This acts to smooth out pressure fluctuations in the system by acting like a pressure buffer and giving a store of fluid charge so that the pump doesn't have to run all the time (remember that liquids are effectivly incompressible, whereas gases are compressible). If the OP is loosing pressure overnight, either its leaking out of the closed system (which would be fairly obvious), or its bleeding across one of the high/low pressure interfaces inside the system - the accumulator is not one of these.
From the long chain here it seems the symptoms changed and now we are faced with pressure is good and steady if he doesn't change gears but once he starts to change gears he loses pressures quickly - hence my suggestion above about screws
100% agree; if those screws are at an HP / LP interface internal to the F1 system, then this is a top possibility.
Not sure what you are trying to say The factory fill is spriax s4 ATF for the f1 system Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Both are similar but not the same, the properties of both are different. ATF fluid eats the seals inside the unit.
So are you saying the OE product is eating the seals ? I find tat hard to believe that Ferrari would do that
I'm saying check the label in the engine compartment to see the fluids used in a Ferrari and you'll see for your self.
When you replace the accumulator you will introduce air into the power unit. This needs to be bled out. Is the shop familiar with how to do this? There is a valve on the power unit that needs to be opened and shut while the scan tool activates the pump. At minimum they should run an extended bleed procedure for the release bearing also.
What was thier reasoning for replacing the e-diff solenoid? The e-diff although is does run off of the F1 power unit, it is a separately controlled component apart from the actual shift control side. If you have replaced the accumulator and still the pump is running too frequently..I would have them do a complete bleed on the system before replacing anything more. Bleed the power unit, actuator, and release bearing in that order. You must be sure the air is completely out of the system..only then will you know if you need to dig further. If it continues yes to loose pressure after words.. you may have an internal leak in the actuator..
The person trying to change ediff solenoid should show you the leak rate bring high on a diag tool ..very easy diag with that parameter Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
