86 Testarossa Coupling on end of Cam | Page 2 | FerrariChat

86 Testarossa Coupling on end of Cam

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by peteficarra, Jun 14, 2021.

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  1. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,119
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    Brian Crall
    I am guessing then that they are drilling again. I saw the huge price increase and opted to instead to make the existing pieces solid. Only did it the one time. Was more work than expected so probably will not do again. It surprises me any are still out there. We were allowed to replace any we saw and Ferrari would pay. We did 100% of our customer cars. Same deal on the junk alternators in 348 and Mondial t. I guess other shops were not concerned enough to take care of their customers like that.
     
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  2. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    ontario
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    peter j ficarra
    Thanks to all that commented on my post, it helped a lot. I installed the126166 part and the car runs great. When the other side starts leaking I think I will make the Original part solid like Rifledriver mentioned.
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    I think it would be easier for someone to make aluminum plugs that are a tight fit in the cam. They can be coated with a 518 type anaerobic sealant and put in behind the extension. The current price for the extensions is just absurd.
     
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  4. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    FYI….

    Over 700usd
     
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  5. V4NG0

    V4NG0 Formula Junior
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    Dec 14, 2018
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    Charles Edward Cheese
    ^__that was roughly the price I found too for the pre-drilled ones, but the ones *not* pre-drilled that I bought were closer to $175 IIRC.
     
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  6. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    Jun 30, 2006
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    I got mine drilled at a local machine shop for 20 dollars.
     
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  7. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
    158
    ontario
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    peter j ficarra
    That is a good Idea, was it hard to get the rubber out? I was thinking remove the rubber and degrease, then weld or braze that groove in the front. I will not pay $750 Bucks for that Coupling.
     
  8. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    I let it burn itself out. You need to keep inner and outer indexed and the inner straight and centered. Kind of tricky. If you wanted to take it apart and build a bushing to take up the space occupied by the rubber then weld/solder/braze it all together better still but I was looking at a cost saving method, not a big project. Hence my comment about just plugging the cam behind the extension would be an easy, cost effective solution. .


    By the way, the current US price for 133063 is currently just under $1000.
     
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  9. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    ontario
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    peter j ficarra
    Oh I get it, I never realized there were 2 separate pieces on the Coupling. Plugging the end of the Cam sounds a lot easier. Thanks a lot Brian.
     
  10. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    peter j ficarra
    Yesterday I bought one, 126166 from T.RUTLANDS FOR $163 and it was drilled. They had several in stock
     
  11. V4NG0

    V4NG0 Formula Junior
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    Interesting. I bought that same part number for approximately the same price from the same supplier last year and it was not drilled.
     
  12. peteficarra

    peteficarra Karting

    Jun 22, 2010
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    peter j ficarra
    I asked for a drilled one if he had it
     
  13. schelle_pelle

    schelle_pelle Karting

    Oct 22, 2021
    161
    Berlin, Germany
    Hi,

    just want to revive this somewhat older thread. I am in the process of a major and have the cams out. Funny enough I recognized that one cam was already equipped with 133063 but the other cam had 129121 (not even 126166). Obviously I had an oil leak in the distributor housing where 129121 was fitted. One reason was definitely a not properly sealing oil seal that was actually burned a bit and left oil out. So I am not certain if 129121 with that rubber seal failed. But as the cams are out I would like to act and stop the leaking or any future occurance. As Brian mentioned, I am also not willing to pay 1.000€/$ for that stupid 133063. Has anyone tried to "fix" the original 129121?

    Also the question on how do I get the current extension separated from the cam?
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  14. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    Just pop out that dowel pin with a punch and the part it just pressed into there. It wiggles out with some persuasion. I just used a pair of channel locks on my old one since it was already toast. However, you need the old one to get the proper hole drilled if the one you buy does not have a hole pre drilled.
     
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  15. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    And that is exactly where it leaks. It’s a two piece part.
     
  16. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #41 Steve Magnusson, May 21, 2023
    Last edited: May 21, 2023
    The good news is that 133063 is down to ~$770US at MCP ;).

    (F really got a little too tricky/risky on the original design -- never understood what "problem" that they were trying to solve, and, after 308 going thru the same design evolution in that area to prevent oil leaks, why they ever went back to a similar situation with a rubber component being relied on to seal thing up.)
     
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  17. schelle_pelle

    schelle_pelle Karting

    Oct 22, 2021
    161
    Berlin, Germany
    Thanks guys! Seems easy to get that thing out. But there is no way I spend 1000$ for that little thing (700$ plus tax and shipping from US or UK brings me to 1000$).
    I am actually thinking about the solution from Brian to block the cam. I don't get why that extension in hollow anyways...
     
  18. schelle_pelle

    schelle_pelle Karting

    Oct 22, 2021
    161
    Berlin, Germany
    Ridiculous... I got a quote from a German parts dealer for a USED 133063 of 750€... It' just a eff'in metal piece that has no special function.
     
  19. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    During 308QV production Magnetti Marelli changed the plastic compound for the ignition rotors and we had a lot of problems with a break down of the electrical insulation properties allowing a direct short between the carbon contact and the end of the cam. It was a big issue for a while. Finally Ferrari got MM to spend the extra 2 cents per rotor to go back to the old plastic but in that period it cost Ferrari a bundle.

    Some rocket scientist decided to avoid future problems by eliminating the metal clip that held the rotor to the cam and designed the screw on rotor for the TR and 3.2 motors. Well those used junk plastic too and on long high RPM dyno runs the torsional vibration of the cams caused the plastic to fracture and the rotors fell off. Further rocket science led them to decide the cure for that was to redesign the cam extensions with a rubber vibration damper and those went into production. Within just a few months it became obvious that was a bad fix because we had profuse oil leaks at the distributors. Ferrari tried a few fixes, none of which worked and finally threw up their hands and just made solid extensions and improved the plastic compound for the rotors. That process from start to finish took 3 or more years and cost Ferrari a fortune all because MM went to a cheap plastic on rotors.

    The leaky distributors was one of the reasons the TRs earned the nickname in the dealers as "Liberian Tankers".
     
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  20. schelle_pelle

    schelle_pelle Karting

    Oct 22, 2021
    161
    Berlin, Germany
    Hi Brian,

    thanks for chiming in and giving some history on those stupid distributor assemblies! It's amazing that this design error is still a topic almost 40 years after being "produced".

    This extension looks really simple and I am wondering how difficult it would be to reproduce? It probably does not need to be hollow and also it just needs the threads for the ignition rotors in the front. Just fabricate one off of steel and that's it?

    The second option would be to bring back to live to old one with the plastic inserts and block the oil feed at the cam as Brian described it.

    Here is how my distributor cap looked like... Obviously the owner before me already had that leak... I am still surprised that the rear bank got some sparks to run the engine smoothly.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #46 Rifledriver, May 22, 2023
    Last edited: May 22, 2023
    It was actually one of the few times in memory Ferrari screwed something up and did not blame the mechanics as is their go to excuse.

    All that really needs to be done is remove the extension, measure the I.D. of the cam and make an aluminum plug at near the ID. Clean the bore, put a little anerobic sealant on the plug and drive it in just far enough to leave room for the extension then reinstall it.

    I am guessing that cap is from a 3.2 motor.
     
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  22. schelle_pelle

    schelle_pelle Karting

    Oct 22, 2021
    161
    Berlin, Germany
    Yes, spot on - it's a 3.2 Mondi... For a TR some posts would be missing. :-D
    But as parts are the same and this thread already existed I sneaked in TR territory... ;-)

    Okay, convinced... I'll try that aluminum plug. Thanks for the advice. Any proceedings I will post here...
     
  23. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    romano schwabel
    a testarossa with a 4 cylinder bank???

    oh, have not read your next post before I was writing
     
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  24. schelle_pelle

    schelle_pelle Karting

    Oct 22, 2021
    161
    Berlin, Germany
  25. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    I think putting a plug in the small diameter would be an exceedingly bad idea. If it manages ti migrate down the bore of the cam it will block oil to bearings. Put it in the larger diameter pressed up against the step.
     
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