Call Nick and ask?
There are plenty of more recent threads about the Electromotive XDI you could have chosen... that end with results, too. I installed Nick's XDI system last fall in my 1984 Euro 308 QV - the ignition on that car used the Magnetti Marelli Digiplex boxes, which were the source of ongoing problems. Here's one thread from last fall, thorn was having trouble with a formerly reliable XDI system - turned out to be a failed magnetic crank sensor. I installed the more reliable Hall sensor with my system. So, this just happened. Damned electricals... In that thread, I wrote in post #134: I made a few more posts in that thread with detailed discussion and photos of my XDI installation, and comments on the results. Please read through the second half of that thread so see those posts. Bottom line, I'm extremely happy with the XDI - it "woke up" the engine, as in it runs smoother, revs quicker, feels peppier, and has no misfire at high rpm or excessive pops and bangs on deceleration any more. I drove all summer without a hitch or concern about the ignition (or anything else with the car). Post #174 from that thread: And post #179:
I just read all that. Thanks for your contribution and information. still no last words from Thor. Did the connection wiring was the problem? and to my original question. Can this benefit the 328?
I think the Sarasota Italian Garage solution (David Feinberg) of putting modern electronics inside the existing Digiplex housing is far less invasive, way less modification hassle, and a better choice for any Digiplex issues -- JMO: https://www.sarasotaitaliangarage.com/ferrari-parts It's like putting in the 1-piece Newman TR diff carrier in a TR transaxle to fix a broken diff problem vs adapting a Lamborghini transaxle to your TR to fix a broken diff problem .
I don’t have time to read this whole thread, but if the OP/current followers want a true before/after testimonial, I bought my ‘79 carb car with a stock setup, swapped to the electromotive xdi, installed by a local tech recommended as a preferred installer when I called electromotive customer service for a recommendation (bought the setup from Nick’s Forza). I don’t know if it adds any power - in fact I’d bet not - but what is does do is optimize your combustion cycles and smooth out the power delivery so that you no longer lose any hp over imperfect timing of imperfectly synchronized dual distributors. I know the professionals on this board will chime in and say a properly/well-set-up set of points and carbs will run optimally, but a I’d put my money on a computer direct-firing the spark plugs any day over trying to get two separate distributors to work in perfect tandem with half an engine. My car runs MUCH smoother with the xdi. More power? Eh. Less power loss? Probably.
The 'car wizard' installed one to replace some bodged distributor replacement on his 308 GTB. Seemed happy. Needs some parts to if you have any to sell. He has made a shed-load of money out of that Hoovies Garage guy, so don't let him sob-story you out of the right money.
Well - David's solution is ideal if the Digiplexes are failed and that's all you want to replace and you want the originality of the distributors, but it costs double the XDI system - and you're still left with troublesome, poor quality aftermarket distributor caps, rotors, plug extenders, triple crank sensors. Less invasive? I didn't drill a single hole to install the XDI, I used existing mounting holes, wiring grommets, etc. (Sorry, I did have to drill two tiny holes to mount the crank sensor on the rear timing belt cover - but I bought a spare cover to drill, my original is on the shelf). Less hassle - sure, the Sarasota Garage solution is plug and play, but it costs at least double the XDI solution. I did the install of the XDI myself, and it's set and forget. Mine's not a show car, it's a driver - and getting rid of the failed Digiplexes, and eliminating the troublesome (aftermarket replacement) distributor caps and rotors, plug extenders, etc also reduces hassle significantly. Cheers, Gordon
Cost comparison is a fair criticism, but you need to compare an apple to an apple cost -- if you did the XDI installation, the dollar cost is $0, but the time cost is not $0. Additionally, even Nick says that you should use the extenders (see the video in post #134 at 3:15). Never said the XDI system wouldn't work, but I've yet to see an installation where I didn't throw-up into my mouth a little bit. For example, in that video, mounting the coil packs next to the 1-4 exhaust manifold isn't the greatest thing to do (and that tacky heat shield they added doesn't extend over the #4 exhaust where it's really needed): Image Unavailable, Please Login and, while putting the electronics on the rear firewall in the trunk isn't terrible: Image Unavailable, Please Login if they cut a hole in the rear firewall for those wires, eeck! Even small details, like not having a boot where the spark plug wires enter the spark plug tubes, is kind of tacky (I hope the Wizard has something for that). Caps and rotors aren't an issue (but will concede that a carb 308 advance mechanism needs care and feeding, and a point-based carb 308 has more justification for doing something electronic). IMO, a true XDI 308 kit would (cost more than the basic XDI unit and) include something to professionally mount the coil packs sort of under the LH C-pillar (where the stock coils are) and something for mounting the added electronic/relays that acts as a heatsink for the XDI unit (that XDI unit mounted on the rear trunk wall carpet with one set of the cooling fins almost touching the trunk floor carpet doesn't qualify). As I said, it was my opinion, and you're welcome to have yours. Please post some pics of your XDI installation for comparison.
Here's my installation... Coils, plugs, and XDI. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well, my opinion is that the Wizard's XDI install is a hack job. I agree with your points on requirements for a clean install, and I achieved that. I'd disagree with Nick on two - well, three - points. Eliminating the extenders might not be required, but it's a great idea (given the problems with extender burn-through causing misfires on every generation of 308); Nick also uses the stock XDI's magnetic crank sensor, but Scott hates them and always uses a Hall sensor instead - so I followed Scott's lead and installed the optional Hall sensor; and Nick doesn't see an advantage to using a MAP sensor for vacuum advance, and I can't see a disadvantage to including a vacuum compensation for timing advance. I installed the Electromotive optional MAP sensor to gain vacuum advance adjustment in addition to the basic XDI rpm advance. As you'd guess, I modified old-style Hemi tubes to provide direct to spark plug wires with the boots; mounted the coils on a 3D-printed bracket using the factory coil mount points; ran the wires through the original Digiplex harness grommet; made a mounting plate for the XDI in the trunk in the same location as the Digiplex plate. Caps and rotors - I went through 3 or 4 caps as I tried to cure the Digiplex issues, I had two good ones at the end but the others cracked, like my originals. Rotors - burned out or cracked. They're just extra points of failure when they aren't made to the same quality as the NOLA originals. My XDI trunk mounting plate, fuse/ground box, relays, tach adapter, MAP sensor: Wired up with weatherproof connectors and labels - this was for the test runs, it was tidied up significantly before being stuffed down in the corner of the trunk In the trunk corner just like the Digiplexes Polycarbonate 3D-printed bracket for the Electromotive coils, and mounted on original coil mounting tabs No-extender plug wires installed Distributor blanking covers, provided (extra-cost option) by Nick Parts to make the no-extender wires - Taylor Hemi tubes and boots, re-using plug well boots A close up view of my coil mounts and wiring versus the factory coil mounts: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login (NOTE!!! Ignore the Marr cap on the red wire, that was just temporary on the end of the power wire direct from the battery) In the left rear wheel well, here's the original Digiplex harnesses going through the rear bulkhead to the corner of the trunk: Image Unavailable, Please Login My XDI coil, power, ground harness (blue zip ties to the original harness) through the wheel well Image Unavailable, Please Login The black cellular foam two photos up of the original harness passing through is filling a MUCH larger hole than the harness needed - I removed some of the extra foam in that bulkhead hole, and fit a new firewall grommet for my harness bundle. No modification to the factory hole through that bulkhead required. Image Unavailable, Please Login Cheers, Gordon
Much better, but will you give your total $s spent and number of work hours to install (including hours spent to source parts)? I'm not believing that it's 1/2 of Sarasota's cost (whereas, the Wizard's XDI system might be ).
I'm a retired engineer - hobby hours are free! I've had a large frame 3D printer for a few years, just started playing with designing stuff recently, Nicks XDI kit - is $1795 now. cost of 3D printer polycarbonate filament used: ~$10 (2 tries). Electromotive Hall sensor $165 Electromotive 1 bar MAP sensor, includes connector to pin into main XDI connector - $65 Nicks Distributor drive Covers - I don't recall, $50? The kit includes Taylor plug wires. I added... Taylor Black Insulator Hemi tubes $49 (need to be shortened) Taylor spark plug boot and terminal kit $13 Misc supplies and minor parts - ground/fuse block, wires, Weatherpak connectors, etc: call it ~ $200. Total $2,347. And it runs sooo much better now!
I'll believe your $ costs, but not your "free" hours -- and a freaking large-format 3D printer! -- oh, yeah, everyone has one of those just laying around . I have no problem with your system, and fully believe it works great for you, but YOUR complaint was that Sarasota's solution was too expensive and XDI was cheaper. I disagree, and think Sarasota's solution is a very cost effective way to change a Digiplex system into essentially a 328/TR Microplex system (with an extra flywheel sensor) by just plug-n-play (and look completely unmodified). PS You lied -- you drilled a lot of holes in that Digiplex plate to mount those electrical components (that's a nice install in the right place).
Nope! The original Digiplex mounting plate is still bolted to the Digiplexes in a storage bin - I could reverse the ignition install in a few hours. I made my own mounting plate for the XDI stuff: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What would that Digiplex upgrade change to your seat of the pants experience behind the wheel of a QV?
Probably none (although maybe they can provide a euro-like ignition map). It's a way to replace a 40-year old failed Digiplex ECU with something way more reliable than another (not-inexpensive) 40-year old Digiplex ECU without needing to make any modifications. Gordon's XDI system is nicely done, but that's a serious project needing a lot of those "free hours".
I have run the XDi system on my QV for about 10 years time now with no issues. Quite labor intensive to install but easy to adjust and haven't looked back since. Only downside as I see it is the non-original appearance. Today I think I would go for a more discrete solution, maybe I'm getting old...- Best, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
