Removing Tight Oil Pressure Sender, Any Tricks?

Look closer at the picture I posted. The nut and the base of the sender body are one piece. The top of the sender is just a can that is swaged around the base. Put the Channellock's on the base with the cover still on. That's about 2 1/2 inches in diameter giving you a huge amount of leverage with a clear path to clamp down and break it free. I can't remember but I thought these were tapered threads (NPT) If so, once it breaks free there will be no trouble.

I mean, it's worth a try before you go taking half the car apart but it's your call.

 

Have we yet determined that the sensor is faulty?

If so, I missed that and apologize.

 

This photo clearly shows the P clamp securing the pipe to the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, loosen the hose clamps on the two ends of the hose, and it will move enough to access the nut.

 

Maybe I am misunderstanding this but if you grounded the wire with the ignition on and the gauge needle didn't move, you eliminated the sender as the problem. If that is true, you should ring out all the wiring before setting your sights on the gauge.

 

Maybe this is already understood, but there are different circuits for the red light and the gauge needle. The red light in the gauge comes from the sensor behind the oil filter manifold, below the plenum. It should go out (pressure switch opens) when pressure is built up.

The gauge (measured oil pressure) is coming from the sensor we all are worried about here .. stuck or whatever happened.


Skickat från min SM-A320FL via Tapatalk

 

Yes, not a good sign for the gauge itself (if your other gauges are all working). A low probability is a bad connection in the HN wire between the sender and the gauge -- there should be a 10~12 position connector near the top of the LH shock that this HN wire passes thru that you could try unplugging/replugging to wipe the connections (but these male-female spade terminals are usually a pretty reliable connection). If you do get to the point of removing the gauge, it would be a good idea IMO to measure the resistance of the wire from the gauge end to the sender end, as there are other connection points in that wire that are just not very accessible. If OK, then you can send the gauge out for repair with some confidence that it has an internal problem (if the other power and ground connections at the gauge also measure OK).

 

Andy is right, removing this clamp will allow you to move the pipe and should be enough to expose the nut on the oil filter base.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Was there locktite or rust. Why did it not turn when you tried it on the car vs off the car?

 

Car is beautiful, owners not so much.

 

It was fun helping you yesterday David, I’m glad we were able to fix it and yes my cousin Pepon was also a great help, nice to have an ex Formula 3 race driver help us.

 

You can clearly see the crush washer being squeezed so tight between the adapter and the sender.