Potential f355 F1 owner. Please give input.

Well it’s been awhile since I updated, but the car is officially at home with me.
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Cars running good again, but the new 360 F1 pump that was installed is not communicating with the TCU. I’ve made a appointment with Earl at North Coast Exotics. Hopefully get the pump married to the tcu and go for a cruise.
I couldn’t find a wiring diagram online to make sure all the F1 plugs are plugged into the correct locations. The pump doesn’t kick on at all. I figured it would at least cycle, but the parameters would be off a little.
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This was the exact issue. It kept blowing the 40amp fuse in the passenger footwell. I isolated the pump and was able to cycle it with a jumper. After that it would go into gear. But if plugged the motor back in it blew the fuse again. I tested the plug and realized it was backward to the pump. I made a quick pigtail harness and bam! It works! I was able to drive the car. Reverse, neutral, 1st and 2nd work. It won’t shift above 2nd. But if I run 2nd gear to like 7000rpm then pull it into neutral, then put it back in gear it goes to 6th. From there I’m able to downshift thru every gear. But then the process repeats itself.

The clutch disc needs replaced or resurfaced. The clutch is slipping, but I already knew this as that’s the reason the PO replaced the F1 pump. It just needed a clutch. He replaced the wrong item. He did it while the car was in 1st gear. At which point he wasn’t able to restart the car. It sat 5 years. Now I’ve got it running again and partially sorted. I think with a new disc and SD2 tune on the F1 system and it’ll be good to go.

 

Thanks for the links! I did make a jumper, but was able to figure it out. I do plan to upgrade the relay to the newer 50amp unit. Seems the relays can blow and leave the pump running till it’s fired. Don’t need that happening. Cheers! Dave.

 

It sure does!! I fabricated a bracket for the pump and rattle canned it flat black. Everything’s working. But I will need to sort the plug for the motor as right now it’s pig tailed together. Thanks!
Dave.

 

After I got the F1 pump sorted I was able to drive the car. I put a few miles on it, but the clutch was slipping under WOT. Which is the reason the po decided to replace the pump in the first place.

I ended up removing the clutch and found everything was in good shape. The flywheel was resurfaced and the pressure plate was new. The disc was worn to about 7mm. I ended up just replacing the disc. After I got it back together, it fails to engage gear. For a moment I thought the disc wasn’t the right replacement. So I sent the original one out to be restored. After I got that back and installed it, the same thing happened. It’ll attempt to engage the gear, the car kinda shutters 2-3 times then returns to neutral.

I had planned to take it directly to Cleveland to have the PIS recalibrated after I replaced the clutch, but now that it doesn’t drive, it’s just sitting. So as of now I’m not doing anything with it. When I get a chance I’ll load it up and haul it to Cleveland to be looked it. Which I didn’t want to do, I wanted to drive it there then drive it home. I don’t really want to leave my car up there. It’s my thought that the sensor that reads clutch position is off.
I’m a little frustrated with it to he honest. Had I know the clutch was at 7mm. I would of just drove it up and had it reset in the first place. 7mm seems like a lot of clutch life left to me. I’ve tried the WSM PIS reset procedure to no avail. I’m not certain I’m doing it 100% correctly either.

 

A lot of threads say you must have a sd2 to bleed it. A lot of other threads people say you don’t. I’ve got a really nice vacuum bleeder. The large canister type. I’ve used it on some Carrera 4 awd systems to bleed them. It worked just fine. They say only the Porsche tool can do it. Anyhow, I’ve used this and it seems I’m getting straight fluid. I’ve done it several times to be honest. But having air is the only logical explanation I can come up with at this time. The car ran and drove fine prior to this.
When I first installed the new disc and it didn’t go into gear, I removed the disc and put the original one back in(before I had it restored) and the car drove. Everything was good. So I sent that out to be redone, then it ended up doing the same thing. There’s only been a few scenarios in my life when I was unable to figure something out with any of my cars. This being one of them. I’ve got an idea I’m gonna try tomorrow. I’ll have my wife start the car and attempt to engage 1st gear, except I’ll be at the back with the bleeder open. Once it cycles the fluid I’ll close it immediately. Try that a few times and see what it does. ‍♂️

 

Yeah that’s how I figured out the 360 pump had reverse polarity. That’s the reason the car sat for 5 years prior to me getting. I’m out in the shop now. I’m gonna try it now.

 

I cracked the bleeder open on the clutch housing and then ran a rubber line from the nipple to a bottle. Made a jumper and cycled the pump. No fluid came out ‍♂️

 

The check valve at the quick disconnect? This may explain why my fluid is not coming out. Hmm.

 

Haha. I literally just copied the thread from the guy who bought your car. Upon watching his videos, it seems this could be my problem. My pump runs in tug exact same manner your car was before it was fixed. Hot damn! I feel like I’m on to something. Now I just gotta order the part. Heres the old thread. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f355-f1-issue-solved.607007/

 

I need this female quick disconnect. The spring loader doesn’t return. I’m sure this plays a major role in my clutch fluid pressure.
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