86 TR Engine Out items to look at or address?

MODENA in australia

keep the 2 discs clutch

so little mileage? I think no need to do some

wait for guido´s answer or take out the relays with the most amp ( radiator fans, fuel pumps, ac radiator fan ) and put them somewhere outside the fuse box

what year is your car?

replace all seals, also from the clutch

 

Injectors: convert to brass version Bosch replacements

Fuel pumps: use Bosch replacements

Water cooling fans: Spal replacements

Hill engineering tensioner bearing

Brake hoses

Distribution caps etc

Coolant lines

Fuel lines

Most of these parts are standard and not very costly....

 

Always remember to replace the exhaust check valves with new. They are cheap GM parts and will protect your air pump from severe damage. The pumps are NLA.

 

Do you not like the conversion kit to a single plate 512 clutch?

 

Replace the diff
Replace the clutch as is
Trans Axle's aren't weak. They are designed to break the quill shaft so you don't damage the gear box. If you upgrade your quill shaft you better beef up the gearbox.
Do the fusebox and relocate the high amp stuff
Pump chain and water chain replacement?? What?? No. Leave it alone.
Yes, do the check valves.
Yes do the seals.
Then go drive it like you stole it.

 

Consider checking the water pump also. You're there so why not.

 

I did my major just now and my mechanic said like Romano, I didn’t upgrade to 512 either


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I think F knew why they put in a double clutch, so why you like to change? in my competition I put in again a double clutch because of the torque I have.

 

Lubricate the acc cable at the engine end (best for getting the lubricant to flow down to the 90 deg bend where it's needed most).

 

In addition:
Replace the fuel tank vent hoses on the firewall, they are petrified by now and are a fire hazard.
Radiator fans and fuel pumps would be good to replace (helps your fuse box), along with the big diameter fuel hose which connects the left and right side tanks.
Replace your rad hoses and thermostats. Look for leaks at the thermostat case.
I just replaced my differential (thanks Newman) and oil pump chain and tensioner after 58,000 km on my 91 TR (all parts looked good but it was worth the peace of mind). Shimming the differential to get the right pattern and drag, is, uh, educational, if you are doing it yourself.
When you replace your differential seals, the part number in the parts book or on the Eurospares site is wrong. The left and right side seal part numbers are different - if you use the suggested part numbers one side will leak gear oil.
Replace the seal on your shift shaft - the original part is an O ring, but they sill leak inside the bellows. Superformance sells a seal with a lip which you can install in the outer transmission case which will stop the drip.
When you reassemble it, use Evans NPG in place of water based coolant, your cylinder liners and water pump seal will thank you.
Install you cam box gaskets dry, except in the corners where they meet other parts at a 90 degree angle.

Enjoy. I am off to finish the major on mine tomorrow.

 

good that you made in rigth john but even for those doing it already several times it is still always educational. never will match at the frist time.

it depends what kind of gaskets you use. there are gaskets without silicone on and also gaskets with silicone. for the first would be good to use also some fluid gasket material. important is for both a little silicone sealing at the corners, but not too much as some are doing.

so tomorrow finish with all and you will make testdrive or finished with engine and then put the machine in the car again? then test drive 2 days later

 

Why?

The 512 clutch was a Ferrari redesign to handle the increased HP loads, provide better tactile response to the driver and more quickly & decisively engage/ disengage.

 

But the TR is 10% less powerful


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No, I am just finishing the engine on the table (installing the water pump seal, new clutch, flywheel, timing belts and checking the valve clearances). Maybe it goes back in the car next weekend. I miss driving it.

 

wish you good luck all will go fine john

 

Take your time. It will be worth the extra wait. Guy's have offered some solid advice. Make it more enjoyable when you don't have to do work over because you got impatient.

Best wishes for a great finish up!

 

Wow! Good thing you did the right thing.

 

Amazing.

 

hopefully you may use an aftermarket diff?

 

Yes - the welded area is prone to failure. That said, I’ll go out on a limb.

The weld does not look bad to my eye.

Little/no splatter, no undercutting, no pitting, no porosity.

I suspect that these failures are a metallurgical compatibility and/or too high a stress level issue rather than bad welds. Just due to the contour changes, the stress levels are concentrated at the outer edge of the weld.

Likely we’ll never know for sure.

 

until now I never have seen a broken welding, only where the welding comes in contact with the to weld material on both sides

 

That is how good welds fail. The actual weld, if done properly is stronger that the material around it.

 

This would be a great time to replace both water thermostats, possibly remove and rod the radiators while access is easy. Also check/ replace the fuel tank transfer hoses, if they aren't white stripe style or show signs of bloating.
Gary Bobileff