York Compressor oil?

Per the owners manual, the compressor takes 11 ounces of oil. Originally (using R12) it was mineral oil but if you are converting to 134, an ester oil is recommended.

The York compressor is about as bulletproof a component as there is. They were used on millions of cars in the 60's, 70's, and 80's and their only drawback is they vibrate. The capacity of the unit to provide cooling is far beyond the tiny cabin of a Ferrari and there is no cooling benefit to changing the York over to some "higher-tech" compressor, most of which actually have less cooling capacity than the York does though they are quieter and run with less vibration.

 

why would you do that? oil+R134

 

Castrol Ester oil is compatible with R12 and R134a. I bought an 8 oz. bottle (P/N: 6808) for under $10 CDN at one of my local auto parts stores...

 

90wt gear oil mixed with some cod liver oil and a dash of olive oil works well....

 

Not taking this seriously will result in a short lived fix. R12 and R134a
use different threads. You really should have an AC manifold gauge set,
they aren't expensive, however R12 manifolds are no longer easy to find.
Harbour Freight or used is the only chance nowdays.

Critical: You need to obtain a good vacuum pump and thoroughly clean your
system of existing oil and contaminants. Most cities have a retailer who caters
to the A/C trade discuss the best oil and amount with the clerk. Oil is'nt
poured in by added at the end of the vacuum phase.

If you plan to convert to R134a kits are available soas to change the fittings
to the manifold. If you don't change fittings, someone down the road will
become confused about which refrigerant is installed.

I've converted but would advise not doing so as long as you have a
guaranteed source of R12. DO NOT use R12 substitutes or Mexican
R12. It is bogus usually not lasting one season. If you can't get
real R12 (I still have some) then and only then convert.

Sorry for not directly answering your question or perhaps not adding to your knowledge.
But I've done a few cars a few years back plus heard some horror stories.
These are things which stick in my mind. Wish I could send you my vacuum pump.
(large medical one)

Forgot to add...oil quantity is not based upon the compressor but on the total
internal volume of tubing and all parts. I.e. it mixes with the refrigerant and
flows throughout the system, not accumulating in the compressor as some think.
With the compressor at the rear, there will be slightly more oil used than
with a front everything car but the total amount required is not critical.

 

"Forgot to add...oil quantity is not based upon the compressor but on the total
internal volume of tubing and all parts. I.e. it mixes with the refrigerant and
flows throughout the system, not accumulating in the compressor as some think. "

This is true or "modern" compressors but not the York. They have oil sumps, just like car engines. Over time some oil may find it's way into the cooling system and that is the reason they recommend a change from the original mineral oil to an ester oil if you switch from R12 to 134 or whatever. Strictly speaking, it won't matter BUT since the usual cans of refrigerant also contain lubricant - it's best if the oil in the compressor reservoir and the coolant are compatible.

Easiest way to visualize it is the difference between small 2 cycle and 4 cycle engine - the two cycle has it's oil mixed with the gas and has no oil reservoir; the 4 cycle has an oil reservoir which lubricates by splash/spray. The modern air cond compressor acts like a two stroke and its lubricating oil is supplied with the circulating gas; the York acts like a 4 stroke...

 

Folks, please keep in mind that there are TWO oils; One is the system lubricant that we're all discussing and the second is a lubricant for the bearings in the York's "crankcase". The later is just 'oil'.

 

Not to keep beating this to death...the poster asked about how much oil the York compressor takes. As stated in the owners manual and in the York compressor service manual, it takes 11 oz of oil. This originally was mineral oil because it was compatible with the oil in the refrigerant R12. IF some other refirigerant is used, the compressor oil SHOULD be changed to an oil that is compatible. The reason for this is that IF non compatible oil is used, and there is some "blowby" from the compressor, the incompatibility of the two oils will cause the expansion valve to clog, thus rendering the ac system inoperative and requiring, at a minimum, a new expansion valve and thorough purging of the coolant system.

SO...the lubricant contained in the refrigerant and the 11OZ of oil contained in the compressor's sump should be compatible to avoid problems.

One of the common uses of the York compressors is to be used as an on-board air compressor instead of it's original use as an ac compressor. This is done a lot in off-road vehicles. In this use, ANY motor oil is fine in the compressor.

 

According to the York manual, POE (polyol ester) is acceptable for use with R12 and it is compatible with any mineral oil that may be in the system. PAG oil is used with R134 according to the York manual. If switching to R134, which is not recommended for these cars, you need to flush all the old oil out of the system. That means flushing the condenser, the evaporator, the lines, replace the filter dryer and probably the expansion valve. I recently rebuilt my compressor with a couple of seal and gasket kits from NAPA. For my 328 the owners manual states 11 oz. in the compressor. According to the compressor manual, the dipstick should have 41 mm of oil on it with the compressor on its side which corresponds to 12 oz. This is close to the range shown in the Ferrari manual (38-40mm). I figured a little more is better than a little less. Plus, I added an ounce at the filter dryer when I replaced it and I added some at the condenser when I replaced the discharge hose from the compressor to the condenser. R12 is readily available, it's just expensive. But you only need 35 oz. for a complete recharge (less than $100). I would not recommend changing to R134 unless you live in a mild climate area. I have found that anything much above 90F in the south (with humidity) and these systems with R12 can't catch up after the car has been sitting in the sun for a few hours or after a spirited long drive in the heat of the day. R134 would only make it worse.

 

We use 3G,3GS,4gs mineral oil in R-22 and R12 systems. Don't mix POE,mineral or you will be buying new everything!!!Compressors hate mineral oil with134-a.If you are using R12 or one of the R12 replacements as I do get some 3gs oil at a Johnstone supply or maybe grainger might have it.POE oils work great with 134-a but stick with mineral oils unless the system has been cleaned out and change of refrigerant to 134-a.

 

I don't mind being beat over the head if I learn something in the process. Thanks to Mike and Rick for the lesson, I've not yet encountered a York.

 

I have bunch of friends who run York compressor on their 4x4s, they also turn their truck bumpers/rocker sliders into the airtanks. On my 4x4 I am running an electric compressor but it's not nice as the York, with the York compressor you can run air tools on the trails, my compressor is only good for air up tires and run the differential lockers. I almost pulled a York compressor from Volvo at the junkyard but...

 

If you want to know how they deal with it:

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/york_oilmod.html

 

All,

I'm not afraid to beat the horse to death. I want to put the correct oil in my York because I drained it like an idiot when I took it off can anyone point me to the correct oil for the yard compressor running R 12.

Thanks

 

Mineral oil ...

 

This should help

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If my memory serves me correctly , and I was a long time ago I was doing A/C work the mineral oil spec was 5GS and if converting to R134 the oil was changed to PAG -poly alkyl glycol oil


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I have not done it, but have been warned that IF moving to R134, the whole system should be resealed, every o ring, and then the flushing and conversion.

And of course at the end of the day 134 will be LESS effective than the original R12.
A friend with Corvettes noticed this, quick fall off at stop lights of the 134 cooling, etc.

But I dont think simply flushing hoses and changing the oil type will work in our cars.

I found some old refrigerent tanks and gave them to him, sadly unlabeled.
He knew immediately these were tanks off of a reclamation system, and was glad to have them, but as contenets were "unknown" the gas was worthless although probly (from the setting they were found) R12