There’s no way the plugs need replacing at 10,000 miles. On the 430 the interval is 30,000. Why would they need changing on a newer car with better electronics? I think they’re trying to upsell you. Will they refund your money if the new plugs don’t fix the rough idle? Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Keep in mind that heavily tracking your car will shorten the interval required to replace plugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My Ferrari independent said constant running of the car at WOT and red line will prematurely wear all items, spark plugs included. Whatever the normal service interval is, for a heavily tracked car, cut those intervals in half. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Late to the party here but I changed mine at 7,500 miles on a spider and as mentioned above, the coils were the hardest part. Otherwise not and issue. Just took some persistent love to get some of them off with the occasional use of excessive force Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
NO WAY! I can't stress how hard it was to get them off. A plastic tool would just flex, and do nothing. Some came of ok, but most were REALLY stuck!
With our low milage cars, replacing the plugs have nothing to do with the mileage. The manual says to do them every 5 years. Mainly because you don't want everything sticking and seizing. The last thing you want is for your plug to get stuck in there. I did mine at 8 years and about 9,000 miles, and I apparently took too long because it was torture pulling the coils off. If you do them, make sure that they are torqued properly! The torque is very low on this car (lowest I've seen). I think that the torque is around 8 ft lbs (don't quote me on that, I'm going out of memory). The bad part is that you can't really get a torque wrench on some of them, so you have to go by feel. And some that you can actually get the wrench on, also present problems, because you will need, u-joints, or wobble sockets, etc. and that will probably affect the accuracy of the torque wrench. Also, the shop manual states to put a tiny bit of motor oil on the threads before installing. (that's the first time I've heard of that. They usually recommend installing dry, since they have a special coating, or sometimes even a little bit of copper anti seize)
The lubricant effects the torque reading. X lb/ft with oil is more 'tightness' torque than X lb/ft dry.
Yes definitely. The lubed threads are probably a large part of why the torque is so low. Plus, the diameter of the threaded part of the plug is also very small. A high torque would surely make a mess of everything.
Spark plugs are always done by feel. Use a very light and even layer of aluminum anti-seize and set to home and then just a little snug. You don't want a plug to come loose (will burn up electrodes) and certainly not too tight with a steel plug in an aluminum head. Anyone who has been changing plugs for a while knows what I mean.
I have a Snap On 9 position adjustable heel bar that should help with coil removal, part # PBMP16A. If you own this tool you will use it often if you are the DIY type. The low plug torque is not unique to Ferrari, many Asian cars (late model K series Honda) use s similar spec for the reduced thread diameter spark plugs.
You must be patient, gentle pressure, if one refuses to budge keep trying others to get a feel for what will be the minimum required to remove one. In my experience with other makes just holding pressure will usually do the job. Also try to rotate them gently and pry upward as you do.
YES!! By the looks of it, I think that tool (or the set of 3 different sizes) would be worth it's weight in gold!!! I just ordered a set with 3 different lengths. Because of all the fighting I had to do, I said "never again", but now with these tools, I think it will be a 2 hr job max!
Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestion to use one of these types of pry bars, I used this one and managed to get all 8 out using it, don’t know how they would come out any other way really. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XM3VX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You are welcome bikerlee, this forum is an enormous resource for F car owners and I am happy to contribute.
Has anyone actually been able to find the NGK plugs at their local auto parts store? The NGK plug numbers (or OEM numbers) do not come up in their systems (I tried NAPA and Oreilly online and called them).
I wish we all could find a better answer. There has to be a place to get them for $8-$10. Plugs are plugs.
I just did the spark plug replacement. I found that spraying a little bit of wd40 between the top seal of the ignition coil and the valve cover and then twisting the ignition coil made removing the ignition coil much easier. I didn’t need to use a pry bar of any kind to remove the ignition coil. In addition, I thought removing the spark plugs was straightforward using a combination of extensions and swivels-definitely easier than removing the spark plugs from my Porsche 993! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login