Brake Duct Hose Replacement | FerrariChat

Brake Duct Hose Replacement

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by rhern213, May 24, 2021.

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  1. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
    Full Name:
    Richel
    #1 rhern213, May 24, 2021
    Last edited: May 24, 2021
    Hi all, this weekend I replaced the brake duct hoses on my 550 and thought it'd be helpful to write up a quick how-to for anyone else interested in doing the job. This should apply to most, if not all Ferrari's of this era.

    The job is fairly simple, with some prep-work it can be done in a couple of hours, especially if you use the OEM ducts that are pre-cut to fit. However my intention was to use higher quality aircraft ducts because they're much more durable than OEM, are 1/6 the price, and easy to purchase any time. I could only find 1 OEM duct available at the time that wasn't a special order for $200. Each of the aircraft grade ducts are $30. So this may come in handy for the future if they're NLA.

    The main problem with the OEM ducts is they're single layered, the internal metal wire that holds the hose shape together is exposed to the elements and easily gets rusted, plus the single layer is easier to tear over time and use. The aircraft duct is double layered so the metal wire is covered on the outside and inside to prevent rusting, plus the rubber material itself is more durable and will hold up to stiffening and heat much better than the OEM material.

    The most time consuming part is actually just cutting the hoses to the proper length and then needing to pull the metal wire lining out from the hose at the edges.

    The only parts needed are the hose ducting (2 x 2.5ft.) 3-1/4in. diameter hose, and shrink tubing to fit around the hose ends for an OEM look and fit. The shrink tubes I just picked up at a local hardware shop. This is the hose duct I purchased:

    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-30513-3.php

    The other item you need is a heat gun to properly install the shrink tube around the duct hose.

    This is what happened to my OEM hoses:

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    This is what the OEM hose looks like inside:

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    This is what the new aircraft hose looks like:

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    So here are the steps:
    1. Each hose needs to be cut to 2.5ft. total length.

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    2. On each end you then need to strip out about 3-4in. of the metal wire.
    (This is to make the ends flexible to fit into the ducts and reshape properly)

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    3. Cut shrink wrap tube to the same 3-4in width as the ends of the hose

    4. Jack up front and remove front wheels

    5. Remove front undertray and front wheel well liner.

    6. Unscrew metal hose clamps from both ends and pull out old duct hose

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    The passenger side front duct is difficult to maneuver around because the coolant tank is right underneath.
    You can unscrew the bottom coolant tank bracket to loosen it up and make it easier to fit your hands around and work on the duct.

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    7. Remove plastic air duct attached to the control arm.

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  2. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
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    Richel
    8. Slide in the new hose to the front bumper air duct
    (Remember to slide the clamps and shrink tube in before installing the new hoses)

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    9. Slide shrink tube over the end of the hose duct.
    10. Apply heat gun to shrink tube to tighten and fit around air duct.
    11. Slide clamp over shrink tube end and tighten

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    12. Repeat the above on the other end near the brake side.
    (The hose should be attached, shrink wrapped, and tied down before you reinstall the air duct to the control arm)

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    13. Reinstall all panels and complete.

    Hopefully this helps anyone thinking of doing the work. I'd be happy to advise of any specific questions.
     
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  3. 308 GTB

    308 GTB F1 World Champ
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    Nice write-up, Richel.
     
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  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    Some great tips, thanks, Richel (especially using aircraft ducting).

    Isn't that the windscreen washer reservoir? ;)


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  5. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
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    Richel
    :eek: oops, good correction!
     
  6. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
    Full Name:
    Richel
    Thanks!
     
  7. Davidspop

    Davidspop Formula Junior

    Dec 23, 2019
    394
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    Lance Malcolm
    Good stuff right here. I need to replace both brake ducts on the front of my 456GT..... this is a great alternative!
     
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  8. fatauto

    fatauto Rookie

    May 1, 2018
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    CT
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    Adam R. Roina
    This is great. My dad's 550 had standard clothing dryer hose installed by the pervious owner. Its always drives me crazy. Just ordered some of the hose you found. NICE WORK!
    Adam
     
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  9. Aerosurfer

    Aerosurfer Formula 3
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    Great thread! Exactly the tutoriali hoped for!

    Was 2.5' hose plenty for each side or did you have to stretch.. in other words can i get away with ordering 1 five foot length and cutting myself or should i go for 2 three foot sections?

    3 inch shrink tubing? Or larger?
     
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  10. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
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    Richel
    1 x 5-ft hose is all you need and just cut once straight down the middle. I got 2 x 3-ft hoses just to be safe but I saw afterwards it was not necessary and had to cut them down to 2.5-ft anyway.
    Shrink tubing should be at least 4" to fit over the hose, anything smaller will be a pain to slide into place.
     
  11. Aerosurfer

    Aerosurfer Formula 3
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    Did thia last night. Nice project. Couple observations or techniques for anyone else about to take this on.

    My car is a 456GT

    The 3 1/4" ducting is great stuff, very durable, but also slightly oversized

    Definitely dont remove too much wire from the new tubes. I extraced out about 3+ inches from each end and wish i had left more. Made it a little sloppy sliding the ends on.

    When removing the wire, i first tried to split the inner and outter layers, but ultimately trimmed out the inner layer, as it was just easier to work with sliding only 1 layer into place on each end

    Left side was extremely tight getting around the oil reservoir and hoses. Like really tight, had to manhandle the new tube to get enough forward towards the bumper. Easy enough to slide things into place and get the clamp back on.

    On the right side there is nearly no room to access the bumper side hookup, as stated above. I couldn't see a reasonable way even moving the Washer reservoir would help, nor a place to move it. Too many other things in the way. Perhaps this is a 456 vs 550 difference

    I already have my front driving light removed for replacement, and that hole geve me perfect space to access the clamp and get the tube installed.

    Again right side was tight around the power steering reservoir. To give myself a little more room, i unscrewed 2 sensors attached to the PS bracket. This helped immensly. Installing the hose this time i 'theaded' the tube into place by spinning it. That worked much better than force. The toughest part of that one was trying to balance the clamp from underneath, basically with a fingertip, while reaching through the bumper with my other hand and wrachet to tighten.

    Working underneath my lift, i left the wheels on and didnt need to remove the metal duct at the wheel assembly. Removing the forward wheel liner was a real help.

    Glad this is done! Old hoses were trashed, and even the untouched portions pretty much fell apart when removed
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  12. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
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    Richel
    @Aerosurfer Awesome update!
    Interesting to see the fitment differences between the 550 and 456. At least now both cars are covered!
    I didn't even consider doing the job with the wheels still on, but I don't have a lift so the wheels would be very annoying to just maneuver your body around otherwise.
    Good thing on the right side at least it's easy to remove the headlights for anyone doing the 456, I too had to pull off the painful holding the clamp with 1 finger while tightening! :D
     
  13. Davidspop

    Davidspop Formula Junior

    Dec 23, 2019
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    Lance Malcolm
    @Aerosurfer did you heat the shrink tubing on the ends before you installed? How did you do that without shrinking the ducting too much? I am ordering now for my 456..... Thanks, Lance
     
  14. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
    576
    Miami, FL
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    Richel
    I suggest you pre-shrink it before installing, not completely of course, just to leave enough play to easily slide it back in. The main reason is you can't apply direct heat to the top area, so it might shrink unevenly. To help that though I tried spinning it as I applied heat to make it more even. Second reason is it just saves you a ton of time and comfort doing it off the car. It shrinks very slowly so you'll be able to control it easily.
     
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  15. kevinkw

    kevinkw Karting

    Apr 19, 2009
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    Seattle, WA
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    Kevin
    Thanks Nick! My front passenger side hose is also in similar condition. Trying to figure out what I need to do.
    What did you need to remove to access the hose?
    It sounded like it was a really tight space, any additional tips?
    If lots of stuff need to be moved, replace both?

     
  16. Aerosurfer

    Aerosurfer Formula 3
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    I removed the front lower tray and had both parking light assemblies out, and if I remember correctly, I also had the forward wheel well panel removed on each side. I would also put the headlights up and turn off the power at the battery switch, it should give a little more room to reach in.


    I didn’t and I am paying for it now…. When I did my tubes, I didn’t remove the wheels and instead did it all from underneath while it was on my lift. I was able to muscle them on, but it’s a weird fitment with oblong angles and different turns. Both sides have started tearing again. I will see if I can salvage it with the shrink, but likely will redo it next winter and properly fit the brake sides with the wheels off. Live and learn… like so much on these cars, no repair is necessarily quick or always direct, but doing right is still the best way.
     
  17. Auraraptor

    Auraraptor F1 World Champ
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    Great work! Where do you source the ducts?
     
  18. Aerosurfer

    Aerosurfer Formula 3
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  19. Auraraptor

    Auraraptor F1 World Champ
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    Update: the original part for the 456 (i.e. 177780) is now officially NLA.

    I went ahead and bought 5 ft of CEET-13 DUCTING (3 1/4" ID) per your recommendation to split in half. Thanks :)
     
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  20. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
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    Love this forum for threads like this! I also followed the recipe on my 456M and installed the very nice aircraft spruce ducting. Here’s pix of my journey. I ended up keeping the wires continuing to the ends on the ducts and overlaying the shrink tape. They compressed just fine around the inlet profiles and don’t see an issue / but maybe I’ll get surprised. Thanks to the OP and Aerosurfer for all this and so much more!
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  21. Auraraptor

    Auraraptor F1 World Champ
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    Very nice. Did you use 4in/100mm shrink tubing or larger?
     
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  22. Aerosurfer

    Aerosurfer Formula 3
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    Fantastic work!
     
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  23. scowman

    scowman F1 Rookie

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    Love the shrink ducting.
     
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  24. rhern213

    rhern213 Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2021
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    Awesome fellas, nice to see this stuff's still working!
     
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  25. Lionworks Auto

    Lionworks Auto Formula 3

    Oct 16, 2013
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    Following another threads recommendation I used 4” diameter and it worked great. Any will do.


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