Hi all. Does anyone have a clue if this engine sound is normal on idle? Just bought the car few days ago, haven't listened to the engine earlier while the bonnet was open. Took it for a ride today and coolant temperature almost went to the red zone while standing at the red traffic light. Shot this video after getting home. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zhSLP2b6LfwiP7yC-SRf6kbOd0jcTHIk/view Cheers.
My 612 is loud at idle, especially in a cold start. Really loud. The dealer said that the exhaust system is entirely stock. The fast idle that your clip shows seems normal when compared to mine.
Thanks! Hope the overheating issue isn't that serious either then, fluid level is ok. Will take the car for inspection and yearly maintenance, wasn't sure if i should trailer it or not.
over heating is an issue, its all aluminum and doesn't take very kindly to over heating. It's not like an iron block especially the heads. be very careful.
Standard things for a 65 deg V12 Ferrari. Make sure the fans are working and make sure the thermostat is opening. OEM thermostats are pretty weak.
I agree with Anthony, the temp shouldn't be anywhere near the red zone, and still below even in heavy traffic. I see the paint is peeling on your intakes as well. I'm having mine repainted as we speak.
Thanks, after the oil change today we revved it and went to the red zone again in a few seconds. Changing the thermostat seems an easy fix, or wondering if it should be worth changing the whole water pump too? At the service we couldn't figure out which was broken. The temp is fine when the car is driving, only rises when the it's standing. Fans are working ok. Also, i'm not sure if it existed before, but after the overheat today i notice a bit rattle when accelerating from standing around 1000-1500rpm. No leak under the car.
I would investigate that rattle Gyorgy?. If temp is fine when driving then radiator must be working fine?, have you disconnected the top and bottom hoses and flushed water through the system?, you have changed the thermostat?, and the fans work ok? Maybe the water pump is at fault?, if the bearing and impellor are worn, then maybe at speed there the revolutions are high enough to push the water round, but when stood at idle the pump cannot circulate enough water round sufficiently. Can you take the water pump belt off without effecting any engine timing?, then check for any play in the pump shaft?
Thank you for all your replies. At this point i'm pretty convinced that the water pump went bad. What you wrote about it totally describes the problem. The rattle on low rpm is i think just the clutch starting worning out. Will check the oil in a few days if there is any water in it, and try not to drive until the new water pump, belts and tensioners arrive. Cheers
When you remove the thermostat, you can pear down into the water pump impellers (located just below the housing). I have seen a thermostat "Mechanically come apart" and components of it get ingested in the water pump impellers, they are a nylon material, and destroy them. The car will not show any evidence of a leak, because its not leaking, just the water pump can't move the coolant around. Keep us posted, as we all have the same cars and engines and knowledge can help someone else. If the inspection shows any evidence of the above thermostat failure, don't panic, there are clever ways to retrieve the derby without a big expense.
Great, will bring the car to an official service shop for a full engine check and will ask for this and get back with the results. Today just found some oil in the coolant reservoir, hope it's not serious or just a head gasket seal. Attaching an image. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is it normal having this little amount of oil in the coolant reservoir, have someone experienced this also? Or should it be worth taking to a leakdown test for a possible head gasket failure?
Sniffer test probably not a bad idea if there is a concern. One thing is that the coolant is meant to be blue in colour. That stuff looks grim.
Took out the thermostat today to check if engine still overheats. It does, and thermostat looks fine so i suspect it's water pump failure. Replacing it is something you can do at home without removing the radiator? Plastic cover bolts seem to be hard to reach.
Rad doesn't need to come off to get at the water pump - just the aux belts from the front of the engine. I'm running the aftermarket water pump from Ricambi, which has been great for the last few years.
Awesome! Was deciding between ricambi and the one from aw italian, ordered from the latter yesterday because of faster shipping to europe. Hope it will be as reliable as yours
Thank you everyone for the replies. It turned out that the water pump was good, but a few liters of coolant were missing and this caused the overheating. Since then no problem with the coolant temp. Since last year the car started generating other problems, and wonder if these issues are serious in your opinion. It is going to get a major service in two weeks, changing all the belts, all fluids, water pump, sparks plugs, clutch, injector o-rings. 1. for a few months it did that when starting from cold, idle rpm stalled at around 800rpm for a second, and then revved up. After restarting the engine it started without a problem. I read on the forum that this could be caused by leaking injector/bad spark plug. After a few months the problem went away magically, i only did an ecu reset. The problem is that now the oil level is above maximum by 20mm and smells a bit of fuel. I think there could be correlation between the two issues. Attaching image. 2. After 20 minutes of driving there is a loud noise coming from the belts/steering, which becomes even louder when revving or steering. What do you think cause this, belt or power steering maybe? Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tHGCkCWRbUA4RKw8Je5yq8jdJtAv-FuY/view 3. After long driving 3rd to 4th gear change goes to neutral, or at heavy acceleration. Just read the values: Self calibrated clutch pos is 26.77mm, new clutch pos 23.68mm, clutch wear 35%, clutch wear index 7795, PIS 7.6. I bought all the parts needed for clutch replacement but wonder if it's needed yet or only an f1 and gearbox oil change could solve the issue. Thanks in advance, Gyorgy Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well since you are getting a major service in two weeks, hopefully everything will be sorted out. However, I would advise not to drive the car with the oil overfilled.
Clutch relearn solved my 3rd to 4th gear change issue completely. Now i'm thinking clutch change can wait as it has only 35% wear now. I used Thinkdiag for getting info on the clutch and doing the relearning. Power steering noise was fixed by added a bit of power steering fluid. It was on minimum level, mechanic told me that if it makes noise after being warmed up then it's probably low power steering fluid level and he was correct.
Hi all, Just got a picture of the 181599 rubber hose running above the manifold, from the mechanic. Ordered from superformance, it's 2cm shorter than the factory one. What do you think? They advise not to use it and put the old one back. Thanks.
I learned from bitter past experience that an “ok” OEM hose is a lot less risky than a better quality hose that doesn’t fit. Put the old one back on for now. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Thanks brogenville. It turned out i misunderstood my mechanic, his issue was the material of the hose, not the size of it. The replacement part is from rubber instead of the longer lasting silicone which was installed. Consulted with other ferrari mechanic and he told there is no bad choice between them, so i decided to put the rubber one in and will change it to a silicone one at the next major service.
