California - Roof won't close

The roof has really been acting up this weekend, so I was glad to see the new battery arriving this morning. Put a charger on the new battery straight away so that it would be fully charged and replaced the battery in the afternoon. Did a few up and down cycles with the roof and no issues. Here is hoping the problem is fixed.

 

Yes, did the unlock/lock doors with remote, open trunk with remote, 1 minute with the key in position II and not starting the car. Started the car with no current draw, so all lights, AC etc. off and then let it idle for 10 min. Windows up and down, checked auto window drop down when opening door. Took it for a spin and everything was smooth. Top up and down cycles a few times.

 

New battery been in for a week and the same fault is still there. The voltage readings are the same with the new battery as with the old.

Taking the car of the tender and taking a drive and come home and it won't close. Put it on the tender again and when the ctek is at stage four the car can be startet again and the roof will close without any issues.

It's having the annual service tomorrow, so I'll them look at it while it's there

 

So they just called me back from the service center, they did a battery test even though knew I just put in a new battery, just to be sure, given the symptoms I told them. Well, the battery I bought may just have been on the shelves for too long, as the State-of-Health is only 67%. So the working theory is still a new battery. So I will have those whom I bought the 'new' battery from sent me a genuinely new one with a SoH close to 100%. What a pain in the ...

 

I don't think we get the Braille battery in Europe and I'm not fully comfortable with a lithium battery in a car that was not made for that. For this time I'm sticking with a traditional 12V battery

 

Okay, so got a replacement battery and put it in. Checked it before install and it said SoH of 98%, checked the 'old new one' before taking it out and it said SoH of 68%. Now here comes the weird thing. Checked the 'old new one' after taking it out and it has a SoH of 98% and the new new one now in the car has a SoH of 73%. So I decided to check the three year old Ferrari battery I took out two weeks ago and it has a SoH of 90% out of the car.

Only tried the top once and when closing there was a little hick-up at the usual place, but it closed.

So I still think it is related to the electrics, but there seem to be some kind of internal resistance somewhere that is also resulting in the battery displaying a low SoH.

What could this be?

 

No aftermarket add-ons I know about expect from a tracker. ECU sounds plausible, but that may be very difficult to find, there were no codes. I have a faulty temperature sensor or something like that on the A/C, which will be fixed on warranty, but it probably not that

 

@bb2thdr - it's been at the dealer and they said change the battery you just changed :-( But I'm in dialogue with them.

@SVCaliforia - I was just thinking the same thing this morning. I've had bad ground on other cars before, but that usually throws 95 errors, but I'll have this in mind going forward.

 

Going to the dealer next week, but just thinking about the different odd things the car is doing and if there may be a correlation between them.

The car's alarm is coded to what they call 'Benelux', which means that the alarm is armed after approx. 5 min of shutting the car off, even though you don't lock the car or just sit in the car. Kind of annoying, as it means that the alarm will start when filling up the car at the petrol station if you do not press open on the keyfob, even if the car is unlocked.

But lately this 'Benelux' feature isn't active, so no arming of the car alarm and no activation of the alarm when you open the door more than 5 minutes after shutting the car off.

I've also noticed that the alarm was replaced at Ferrari by the previous owner back in 2019. So I have a suspicion that the alarm module is somehow responsible for the drain that is messing things up

 

Just got the car back from the dealer. They have changed a hall sensor on the left side that showed irregularities in voltage and they also discovered that there were missing three out of four rubber stops. Here's hoping that everything is fine now.