355 Explanation of secondary air and vacuum system

Sure might take a few days
I feel the same way because of work it’s been many weeks between things

 

Changed fuel press Reg no change in running
Changed all o2 sensors Nno change
Smoke tested intake no leaks. No change
Checked fuel pump for volume and was at the higher end of good. No change
Changed fuel filter No change
diagnostic sheet 22 page 1 and 2 checked all injectors and they are in spec and everything else checked good except
#17. Supplementary fan control winding and #19 supply of voltage to air injection pump control relay (but air injection pump works as designed)
Pg 3
Maf sensor also seems to check out at 1.35 when engine idling
Static check of cam timing sensor has 12 volts to both signal and power. Signal pulls down when touched with iron file so likely working
Changed all spark plugs on bank 1 no change
Replaced all plug wires with old working ones. No change
Removed injectors and tested 3 injectors are all the same injector 3 is flowing about 10 percent more but unsure if that would cause enough of a problem
Tried cleaning them but it did not seem to help much
Replaced idle air control since I had a know old working one. No change
Unplugged bank 1 knock sensor car ran slightly better then way worse throwing permanent sdl which before would only be flashing after an acceleration
removed bank 1 plenum checked butterfly’s and did a visual on linkages etc all looked good

if I remember anything else will add another

 

The throttle position sensor was checked and varies consistent with the opening of the throttles

 

Yes did changed coil but have not checked 3 wires but have used a timing light and all cylinders are sparking at idle but could fail under load
The rest you stated is correct have not done those
Replace ecu
Compression
Leak down
Sec injection air valves

But did have cam cover off day timing marks still line up on that bank

I can hear a bit of a flutter when accelerating sometimes

 

Yes I can run my injectors at up to 60 psi and 8000 rpm
Sup fan control was way off almost zero.
From memory I think 0.315 ohms
Actually maybe it was volts and supposed to be 12

 

It was volts Ian
Sorry gettin old ha ha

 

Yes that side
Yes I checked everything on the head and it checked out
Yes I did the cams you and fbb helped me lots on that and they are still perfect as I had the valve cover off.
Everything still looks good there

remember once in a while it kicks in and works perfect for a few seconds from 1200 rpm but very sporadic and only one out of 30 tries likely
It also pulls hard above 7000 rpm wide open in 3 4th and 5th to 240kmh

 

Not that I would ever go that fast
I am working out of town so just back for the weekend no time to wrench for a bit but thank you to all the help
Will try some of the things mentioned and get back to the group

 

I may have too will have to wait for our long weekend coming up
I will keep you posted.
On another note that electrical schematic you sent me is it for a 5.2 as I am assuming it was just not an F1??
Or I wonder if they are the same?

 

So I had a spare ECM so I plugged it in and it worked perfect for about 3 minutes then the same.
I think once the computer started getting signals under closed loop the parameters started getting closer to my original computer because when I scanned it
Using live dater the fuel trims were normal but we’re getting richer all the time on bank 1.

I think this would tell me that mechanically the engine is good I just have a problem with the amount of fuel and need to figure out why.

 

According to the manual if you have a faulty one you can disconnect and if everything else is good the engine will run fine
From what I read.

 

That being said when I plugged in the new computer I also disconnected the upstream and downstream o2 sensors.
This is also supposed to make the computer run open loop but the car would start fine but slowly start to be too Rich and die
After plugging them back in it idled perfect and ran perfect for the 3 minutes as stated above.

 

Mitchell has been a huge huge help over the phone and email
I finally got an oscilloscope that works and I have a power problem to injector 2 and 3
Which is exactly what Mitchell was suggesting I just had no real way to prove it.
It’s intermittent and when I checked cylinder 4 it even went from not working to working right on the scope

it took a while as I had to order and make a few pigtails so I could test while the engine was running.

still working through what the problem actually is and narrow it down as to where in the harness or plugs it would be
On Ian’s diagram power splices for injectors is at 30009 but I have no idea where that is so any suggestions would be good
I will keep you posted as I go through it

 

Not sure I could tell
They do come out in pairs though

 

Maybe I should check the plugs first since I installed gold kit myself

 

Does not really make sense that the harness itself would have a problem as it has not been taken out