Ferrari 412 Radiator Fans Fuse Melting | FerrariChat

Ferrari 412 Radiator Fans Fuse Melting

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by 360modena2003, Apr 20, 2024.

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  1. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
    Hello,

    now that my 412 is running fantastically, I have noticed my radiator fans are inoperative.

    Upon inspection, I noticed my radiator fan fuses (both) had melted.

    I know Ferrari fuse boards are infamous for being bad, the 412 seems to be in very good condition.

    Has anyone else faced this and what is the recommended course of action, an additional relay for example?

    Thanks again to all
     
  2. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    Just use contact cleaner on the fuse and the relay, then silver grease. If this is not enough, you can beef-up the electric path with a wire parrallel to the track.

    Maybe that a 12v cooling fan could help, or you could divert airflow coming from the A-pilar vent down to the fuse panel.
     
  3. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 8, 2004
    4,396
    Edmonton, AB Canada
    Full Name:
    Sam Saprunoff
    Good day,

    I would first check the circuit load currents to verify that the current is well under the fuse size. In my experience the average current draw should be about 50% to about 80% of the fuse size. If it is larger, then track down as to why. Ferrari's wiring is so-so at best and to draw more current than necessary is asking for major issues.

    Also, over time the fan motors tend to draw more current, as the internal lubricants dry up along with the brush wear and oxidation of the commutator. If the fans have not been refreshed in recent history, I would take them apart, clean the various contacts, and relubricate the bushings. etc. Once done, bench test and measure the fan current so you have a reference value.

    As raemin suggested, clean all of the contacts and double check the wiring terminations for frayed or loose connections and repair accordingly.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  4. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,670
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    I think you have some good things to test based on above input. Also look for burnt / frayed wires in engine bay. Try them first.

    If that fails, I added a separate fuse block behind the battery, under the wiper motor. I fed I high amp wire to the fuse box and ran separate wires to each fan (3 for the 400i) as the power wire. I added a relay adjacent to each fan with the original power wire acting as the "signal" wire to the relay and the new power wire to the relay an onto the fan motor. Relay will need a short ground wire too. Besides not blowing fuses the fans will run faster (better cooling) as they will be getting about 14V with motor running.
    Ken
     
  5. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
    I like this idea - will remove the fans, inspect, clean and lubricate and probably go your route as well.
     
  6. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    It's got three ASTI fans. I really don't like them! Very powerfull, but the alloy does not age well. Poor protection against dust.

    These were used in some Lotus and as cooling fans on some renault light trucks transmission. Hard to source, so be very gentle when you remove them.

    Given where you live, dust could indeed be your issue.
     
  7. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
    Mine seems to be ok, but will know once I remove and open them up.

    How many amps should it normally draw and what rating of relay should I use?
     
  8. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    On the lotus the fan is protected by a 15A fuse, so my rough guess is 7.5~10A.
     
  9. SouthJersey400i

    SouthJersey400i Formula 3

    Mar 14, 2007
    1,670
    Romulus, NY (Finger Lakes)
    Full Name:
    Ken Battle
    Hella light relays are reliable and have high enough rating.
    Ken
     
  10. Al Campbell

    Al Campbell Formula Junior
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Nov 22, 2013
    580
    Australia
    I assume you have checked the fans are wired up correctly and push air in the right direction - if wrong they will draw more current when the car is moving as they fight against the air flow.
     
  11. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
  12. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    These are oilite bearings (bronze with a sponge like structure, filled with oil), so the proper way is to oil them with sae40 oil.

    Quote

    "Oilite is a sintered bronze made to have its pores filled with oil and used like that"

    "Re-oiling: after machining of the bearing, or following oil loss during storage, immerse in high quality mineral oil to ISO VG 60 or ISO VG 150 (SAE30 or SAE40) at 80°C to 100°C for 10 to 15 minutes and then cool in cold oil."


    While you are there you should clean the commutator with a blue eraser.
     
    360modena2003 likes this.
  13. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2023
    657
    tampa FL
    Full Name:
    Jared salinsky
    360modena2003- did you do the work yourself? I'm in the middle of updating/upgrading my fans as well and I'm finding just a little difficult to remove the front valence under the bumper. lots of bolts in tight places, and rusted bolts as well. Do you have any input / suggestions?
    thanks
     
  14. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    Three nuts and bolts on each side, the rearmost one has to be removed from the fender side and you'd better remove the wheel as there is not much room for a hand and a spanner here!

    While you remove it, just clean the ground , your headlight and sidemarkers will appreciate it!
     
  15. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2023
    657
    tampa FL
    Full Name:
    Jared salinsky
    yup that's about where I am - removed the front wheels and that rear-most bolt from the fender is completely rusted; couldn't even get a wrench on it. soaked it in blaster and gnarled at it a bit with a flat-head screwdriver. I will assess later to see if it made any difference. otherwise I may have to cut them out with a sawzall and then put a new different bolt. Also I unbolted the 'plate' that is attached to the blowers, thus I could 'move' the blowers over a few inches to come in from the front to get to the other 2 bolts on each side out. There are also 2 bolts way underneath with a bracket - they came off easy.
    PITA!
    and yup saw the grounds and I will definitely clean those up. my passenger side-marker light wasn't even plugged in....
    My driver-side 'cover' for that wiring is missing. any input where to source? I could probably fashion a new one out of plastic stock if needed.
     
  16. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 8, 2004
    4,396
    Edmonton, AB Canada
    Full Name:
    Sam Saprunoff
    Good day Jared,

    Post a picture of the "cover" you mention, as if it is what I think it is then it is a stock item (Faston shrouds) easy to get and are inexpensive.

    Once I see you pic I can verify if it is what I think it is and if so I can supply some part numbers and where to buy.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  17. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2023
    657
    tampa FL
    Full Name:
    Jared salinsky
    thanks - I will supply the pic for posterity but I finally found the part: 255-82-241-00 LH shield
     
  18. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin
    I bought the black abs (matchbox size) cover from eurospares. New and cheap...
     
  19. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
    I had someone do it under my direction, but to do it right would be to lift the car and remove the front valance to give full access to the lower 10mm nuts.

    The valance is not difficult to remove - at least on the 412. Not sure about the 400.
     
  20. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2023
    657
    tampa FL
    Full Name:
    Jared salinsky
    yup I can get under the car fine, and I do have a lift. just 2 stubborn rusted 10mm bolts at the rear corners holding the lower valence to the bumper that I can't easily get. Like everything else dealing with older classics it will get done, and done perfectly!
    cheers and thanks for the reply
     
  21. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
    Any recommendation on what to use to clean the plastic impeller?

    I would like to restore the bright yellow again, it has baked in grease and oil, definitely the first time it's been apart.
     
  22. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2023
    657
    tampa FL
    Full Name:
    Jared salinsky
    I’m sure there are special plastic cleaners that work well. I traditionally use warm water with Dawn detergent because it cuts grease well. Or I use simple green. But in the end, it may be difficult to get that original color back, unless you paint it…
     
  23. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,435
    I will try something abrasive and a solvent - acetone could work, but it may also melt the plastic.

    WIll try it on a small area and see.
     
  24. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2023
    657
    tampa FL
    Full Name:
    Jared salinsky
    question: so do you just put some oil in a flask on the stove and heat it up (monitoring with a thermometer) until it gets to 100C and then soak the bearing for 15 minutes? then switch to cool oil?

    Also do you happen to know the amp draw of the lucas fans?
    I'm still considering whether to go with 'rebuilt' Lucas or go to Spals. the amp draw on the Spal is anywhere from 5-8 amps
    I'd like to keep everything as native as possible; meaning I don't want to do the whole direct connect to battery with new relays etc.

    ty
     
  25. raemin

    raemin Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2007
    2,276
    Lyon (FR)
    Full Name:
    R. Emin

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