Thank you.... I wish I had a split arm... but I do not..... Does anyone have a diagram similar to the uploaded 360 diagram to share what movements do what? I just did not want to have to go through total trial and error.....
Does anyone who has actually adjusted these windows have any tips/tricks on getting the right alignment?
Curious if anyone has page three of the technical advisory? Page 4 and 5 are above.. I think there is a page three that has some key figures on it....
Here are the other pages in case anyone needs them. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi! Please help. My windows go up and down normally when I press the buttons, but after I open the door, they only go down and won't go up (with the buttons). To make everything work again, I have to disconnect the battery. The same situation happens on both doors.
When you open the door, do the windows drop down an inch or so automatically? When you say they go down, but not up, do you mean all the way up? Or don't go up at all?
Assume you have a 456GT (non-M)? .Then perhaps your problem has something to do with the emergency opening of windows. Try to open/close the windows with the key to see if that works as it should (see WSM for procedure). If you find a problem there you may have an issue with one of the microswitches in one of the door locks. M cars have a completely different system of which I know nothing.
With the windows up and the door open, what happens when you manually press the switch on the door jam to simulate the auto drop function? Pressed window should go up, released it should drop again.
Yes, but only until there's a problem with rolling it up using the button. Don't go up at all. I have 456GT The window doesn't respond to the key position. I got the door wiring diagram and was planning to check the microswitches today. Thanks!
Do you mean the simplified diagram from the Workshop Manual or a proper diagram? No one on the forum other than professional Ferrari techs seems to have access to any diagrams for the non-M cars. There was even talk about paying thousands of dollars for a set of diagrams (shared amongst F-Chatters with 456’s).
I don't know. The document is called 'Electrical System 456GT' and it contains 57 pages. With all due respect to the community and the freedom of information, unfortunately, I cannot publish this document as I have obligations to the person who gave it to me. Sorry. As for the microswitches, they all work correctly. However, I noticed that the lock gear is not working.
Understood. I've been under similar obligations. No need for apology. As of now, you probably know more than we do about the wiring Here's all we get in the WSM.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Not even ECU pin numbers are listed (and I can only guess at which switch does what). Did you check the microswitches by doing continuity checks from the ECU plugs? Do you think the lock actuator wasn't working prior to the window problem or have you disturbed the wiring during your investigation? Is the actuator making sounds, but not moving or is it completely dead? Sometimes the plastic gears strip in the actuators
Here's a corrected version of your sentence: Yes ) I have the pin numbers, etc., but I don't understand the logic. The plugs are okay. The lock gear works if you apply power directly, but there's no reaction from the car. It bothers me that the adaptation using the key doesn't work; maybe these issues are related. I also noticed that the modules in the left and right doors are slightly different, and I think one of the modules has been replaced. The problem is the same on both doors, and I swapped the modules, but there were no changes.
If there is a problem with the locks on both doors, that's going to make diagnosis difficult. The two door modules do talk to each other, so I guess it is possible one module may be causing an issue. e.g. the lock signal goes from one module to the other. It doesn't seem like a common power issue (assuming there is common power) because of the labelling on the simplified diagram. Do the diagrams show different fuses for the modules? The WSM, although quite detailed, never seems to tell you what you want to know (regarding operation). That information can only come from someone with the same car (willing to play around with the door). I was thinking that the lock safety feature was being activated due to a faulty switch (producing a certain number of commands within a certain time frame), but after reading the WSM, it seems the inhibit only lasts 10 seconds (and this can even be overriden by cyling the ignition key).
To me your diagnosis looks like a faulty ecu. From my experience, emergency operation only works when both ecu’s are fine. If one is broken (which they do for no apparent reason), you may get a more conclusive diagnosis by systematically testing all functions on both sides, switching the ecu’s side to side at every step. should you find one of the ecu’s at fault, often the cause is a leaking zener diode (on the left of the large connector). That is easy to replace. If that is not your problem, well, good luck.
