Do we know what the other 5 chips control? More curiosity than anything.
I'm not sure of the orientation of the HVAC ECU connector. Cedrik, if you're checking wiring at the HVAC ECU, can you confirm that the live battery power wire (brown) is in the top left hand corner of the yellow plug (as viewed from the socket side) Image Unavailable, Please Login It may be in any of the corners.
Glad you asked, Watson The earlier notes in this forum message thread were wrong. Here is the revised version: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147991197/
So: 1 = unknown 2 = Blower Fan Motor 3 = Electric Water Pump 4 = Re circulation Flap Motor 5 = Air Distribution Motor 6 = Heater Control Valve Any idea what chip #1 does?
Not really. The chip seems to be associated with the control panel. The white ECU plug in @Zamboniman308 's diagram has pins labelled A thru M. The OEM wiring diagrams are labelled 1~13. Assuming A = 1, B = 2, etc, the H and I pins would correspond to OEM pins 8 and 9. These are hooked up to pins 4 and 5 on the HVAC control panel. They may have something to do with STOP/RECIRC control. I got some pretty strange results when I was carrying out resistance checks on pins 4 and 5. It wasn't clear what the signals represented.
So which is it? https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f355-hvac-ecu.526186/page-10#post-148759504 5 = heater valve 6 = Air dis motor OR https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/148759560/ 5 = air dis motor 6 = heater valve???? Or do we just replace both?
And @WATSON reminded me to stick heatsinks on the new chips... Image Unavailable, Please Login (Watson's photo)
Hi, I'm going to attempt to replace the op amps on mine, but does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the hard plastic like film which has been sprayed across the board? I'm tried isopropyl, but it doesn't lift it. I've tried with a screwdriver in the safe area on the bottom right of the photo and it comes off, but needs a gentle amount of force and clearly I can't do this on the main area of the board. Thanks Image Unavailable, Please Login
Try a little heat to soften. Its a messy process and takes awhile. I can't remember exactly how it went. You basically need to unsolder the chip. The cleanup is more of the area after you get it removed. Equipment that is really helpful is a soldering station for surface mount with hot air. I know i used traditional soldering iron to get the board all cleaned up along with some alcohol and hot air and paste to solder the replacement.
Send it to the guy I recommended earlier for doing thr chip replacement he only charged $100 if he is still doing it, sooo worth the money vs hassle.
Thanks. I've ordered a conformal coating remover pen and will give that a go on a safe area before trying around the chips. Unfortunately I'm based in the UK therefore shipping each way can be a pain, along with the re-import tax.
Does anyone know the name/spec of the yellow connector? So far I know it as an Amp automotive 26W MQS connector and I'm trying to find a socket with crimp style male pins rather than a version I've seen with PCB mount socket which is what the board is fitted with. Basically I want to connect up to the existing harness in the car shown in the photos below. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just wondering if the connector is in here: https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/9/ENG_CS_1307999_3_Micro_Quadlok__1211_1307999_3-3344075.pdf Page 191 ? Anyway, I didn't get any hits for TE connectivity "953736-1" (for sale) The Bilstein Suspension ECU has the same setup... soldered pins.
I recently found a place called connectorexperts.com, they can see your pictures, measurements, and sell you pins, housing, and removal tools.
Thanks 953736 does seem to be the one and I also can't find anyone that stocks it. I'll just have to modify a right-angled pin PCB one.
Hi everyone, I am a professional freelance electronic repair from Belgium. I just fixed one ECU 64324800 from a F355 berlinetta 1995-1997, thanks to this thread. I confirm it was the six op-amp U4, U8, U9, U11, U12, U13, as explained in this thread. Ref is TCA2465G. Found them on ebay.de (10 for 65€!) Four or five of them were broken. I'd like to understand why they fry but I have no info about it. The only thing I know is that the car has been flooded in 2021 in Belgium/Liège. Fortunately the battery was disconnected thank to the integrated switch, and the board has been protected thanks to the red conformal coating layer. I removed it with ultrasonic cleaner and IPA alcool @ 50°C, changed the six op-amp and electrolytic capacitors. I put back transparent conformal coating and the card is a good as new. The HVAC works as it should. Here is a gift for those interested in fixing this board: a PDF with components list, values, and position, and voltages at the capacitors. Regards, Vincent
Hi Vincent, Fantastic you managed to fix one and many thanks for posting the PDF to the community. Can I ask a few questions; Do you bench test the board on the car, or was it a case of changing the components and then re-testing in the car? Would be great to understand a test method on the bench Which Capacitors did you change? All the electrolytic ones? I had some of the op-amps changed on mine and it didn't fix the issues. My understanding is that its just a bad design using the op-amps to drive the motors and they easily overload and blow. Thanks Paul
