Resto FLA12897

What started as a clutch job is ending up as a major mechanical restoration. Once an engine is out, on a car like this one cannot just stick to just do the clutch. Even if things worked fine so far the car is 35+ years old and my car last engine out service was back in 2001. Lots of sub-system were worked on but the last significant bill was like 5-6 years ago. So it is time to meet the cashier.
Also it is good to refresh information as tech evolves and so are methods. They are so few of these cars that this communities are invaluable resources.

I link some of the things already there, Mostly about pict of engine out and shocks.
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/countach-clutch-replacement.710346/
and a discussion of A/C compressor:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/countach-a-c-compressor-r134a.710996/#post-150271721

So I will post stuff here from now on.

One thing that choked me when I saw the estimate for all OEM parts is the prices of the 28 head studs. Apparently they are sold by the piece not as a kit. Now all parts are very expensive but this is outright theft.
A head stud is over $100, the nut is over $40 and the washer is almost $60. When you add it up it is priced at the level of my 6 new racing adjustable shocks with options. for simple bolts and nuts hardware.
So we are looking at seeking to make some once the scope of the resto is all agreed upon and we open the engine. I aint paying over $5.5K + tax and tariffs for 28 bolts and nuts. This is plain crazy.
If someone here has already made those, or has sourced any somewhere, that would be a great conribution.
I am sure there is nothing special about those from the factory. Maybe we can make them out of stronger material.

The engine bay and under carriage will be cleaned and subbed for the dry ice process in 2 weeks. I will go see the sub-contracting shop Friday. Should be interesting.

 

The head studs are not torqued such that they will yield plasticity. You can tell this by the torque procedure, if it is a straight torque the load is all elastic. The stud will snap off before you reach your torque setting if it gets in the plastic range. Bolts that are tightened into the plastic range are torqued to a spec and rotated x more degrees. Therefore the original ones are perfectly fine to reuse.

Cheers Jim

 

Thanks. the shop is being abundantly cautious and will not take chances. This info is helping a lot. I am getting them to re-evaluate the replacement given the astronomical cost of bolts and nuts being over my new 6 shocks setup.

Also thanks to Simon - Spider1 for the info on the bolt-on Monster brakes setup. I am in touch with the company.
I am using the OEM in the rear but looking for those in the front.
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/better-brakes-for-the-countach.575315/

Finally, my headliner is slightly discolored in places. Not sure why. Is there a source to get the exact match? so far we can get close but I want an exact match for this material

 

Patrick - I can help you with the headliner material with an exact match material.

 

awesome! will reach out!
Engine getting disassembled before week’s end to be gone thru. I hope it is my lucky week! It run right last start albeit oil seep.

 

so I saw the cams out. Nothing bad so far. Some discoloration. Will post picts later. Meanwhile the clutch is back from FL.

Before:
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After:
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My headliner has a weird spot. Hard to see in the picture. since it was sagging a bit, I will replace thanks to rossocorsa1 who helped find an exact match.
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Engine top being opened. Some camshaft discoloring but nothing bad.
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Spyder1/Simon: sent you a PM in regards to the monsters. I am working with the company. You order ref helped.
I will post all the details once we settled on the exact setup.

NOTE on engine disassembly: the shop had to make a tool to remove the heads. The nuts are tugged in a place where normal tools just dont work..

 

So the monster caliper guys can make a bolt on 300mm rotor. One question they asked is about the bell profile for perfect fit like the Tarox. If you have a sample access I could pass that on.

"For the bells, we can make an educated design based on standard Countach QV hub geometry and Tarox’s typical F2000 hat profiles. Do you have access to the rotor/bell measurements?"

 

Will be back home this week end and can measure up for you

 

I came across this picture with the heat shield. That’s a factory original to give you an idea what you need.


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cool thanks. I did have the heat shield. The guys took it off and I did not see it on the bench
The engine is now fully disassembled. It looks very good. No mechnical issues or stuff found in the oil casing. I did not expect anything since the engine always run fine, allbeit fluid seeps. The Carbs overhaul lasted about 13 years from last time I did it but needed new gaskets at this point as leaks started to develop.

So the only thing will be a full rings and gasket refresh. Collant traces were 1/2 way toward the engine outer side on the head gaskets. Everything checked in specs. Pretty good given this was done 25 years ago at Evans.

No valve wear, no overdue carbon. will post picts later.

Note that on the cylinder shaft inside the block, there are 2 rings of odd sizes that are N/A. these were leaking. Cant find them so they will have them made by a avionic shop with top meterial. These 2 leaking need a full engine out. I'll have to post a pict of that too

Car body should come back from ice cleaning coming week.

and thanks to "Rossa" I got the headliner, perfect match. So far work is pretty straight forward with no bad surprises.

 

Some engine blocks pictures. no issues but the old gasket was on its way out. 25 years old or so.
Carbs are being taken apparts.

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Curious about how many miles or km's you did between the engine out.