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328 Hesitates & Power Loss

Discussion in '308/328' started by Gerry328, Jun 10, 2007.

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  1. Gerry328

    Gerry328 Formula 3
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    #1 Gerry328, Jun 10, 2007
    I have searched the site a few times and cannot find any info on my problem. My car began to run like sh— today. I was driving along and then the engine began to run poorly and hesitate when accelerating. It seems to be missing on one or two cylinders.

    I checked the RPMs at each plug and got the same reading about 1000. That seems to rule out bad wires or extenders.

    I checked the resistance at the two crank/flywheel sensors at the top of the engine, driver’s side, and got about 761 ohms each. I could not find the third, but my tach is working correctly.

    The car starts fine. What am I missing? What should be checked next? I’ll get new plugs, could a fouled plug cause the problem?

    Thanks for the help.
     
  2. wolftalk

    wolftalk Formula Junior

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    #2 wolftalk, Jun 10, 2007
    how did you check rpm's at each plug, and how does that check extenders which are down in the plug holes (I'm not doubting ya, I'm just looking for more ways to check things).

    if you are getting a good spark that isn't arcing through the extenders, then fuel system could be a problem. Is the frequency valve over by the fuel distributor buzzing?

    also, does it matter if the engine is hot or cold? If it only happens hot, try disconnecting the O2 sensor
     
  3. Gerry328

    Gerry328 Formula 3
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    #3 Gerry328, Jun 10, 2007
    I have a Fluke meter with an inductive RPM sensor. It works like a timing light. The problem is the same regardless if the engine is cold or hot.

    If the extenders were arcing I would get the same reading, so that may still be the problem.

    No buzzing from the fuel distributor.
     
  4. wolftalk

    wolftalk Formula Junior

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    #4 wolftalk, Jun 11, 2007
    if the fuel pump is running, the frequency valve should be buzzing.

    put the key in the run position and unplug the blue plug on top of the fuel distributor. The frequency valve should buzz, and the fuel pump come on.

    if no fv, then you possibly popped the injection ecu protection relay fuse or the relay gave up. The fuse is on the relay, and both are attached to the injection ecu plate which is in the trunk under the carpeting below the antenna. Another failure is water getting under there from the antenna and the connections need a cleanup.

    with no fv, the fuel mixture goes way lean
     
  5. Gerry328

    Gerry328 Formula 3
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    #5 Gerry328, Jun 18, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Found the problem, burnt spark plug extender. You can see the burnt area is completely through the extender. This explains why I was getting a strong signal with the Fluke inductive RPM probe.

    I bought extenders on eBay for $6.50 each, plus shipping. I installed eight new extenders and the car is running fine.

    Thanks for all of the help.
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