308 CV Joint Rebuild

In this edition of the shade tree Ferrari mechanic...
308 series C/V joints.

As many owners of older cars have found out, rubber ages with time.
Fuel lines and radiator hoses, brake lines and suspension bushings.
All of these rubber parts tend to get brittle and crack given enough time.
One more rubber part to add to the list, is the Constant Velocity Joint Gaiter.
Also known as the CV joint boot, it's job is to protect the CV joint from the elements.
When a CV joint boot gets a tear, grease from the CV joint will escape and be flung about your engine bay. But more importantly, water, dirt and gravel can now contaminate the CV joint and cause a possible failure of the joint.
Replacement of the CV joint boot is not a difficult job, but it is a dirty one.

Before you get started, take the time to round up all of the tools and supplies you might need, including...

Plenty of shop rags and or paper towels.

The cleaning agent of your choice... such as brake parts cleaner.

A few plastic bags... use to organize removed nuts, and to cover ends of packed CV joints.

Jack stands.

Box of Nitrile gloves.

8-mm Hex socket.

2 ratchets... 1 long to break the bolts loose, 1 short for quick removal of bolts.

Any extensions needed for the ratchets... depending on your access and flexibility.

Snap Ring Pliers.

CV joint boot clamp tightening wrench or banding tool... depends on clamp type used.

Thread locking adhesive... such as Loctite or Permatex.

A Penetrating Catalyst... such as PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.

Lug Wrench... for wheel removal.

Newspaper or plastic trash bags... used to cover work surface, change as necessary.

CV Joint grease.

CV Joint Gaiters or Boots.

CV boot clamps or bands.

CV Joint... If needed.

Paint... If freshening up the paint on worn parts.
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Before you begin the removal process, it might be a good idea depending on how dirty the area is, to use a degreaser to clean things up a bit before you start.

Since in many cases, the bolts holding the CV joints/half shafts in place have not been touched since installation at the factory, it is a good idea to spray them with a penetrating catalyst like PB Blaster the night before removal.
This will help ensure that you don't strip out the head of a frozen bolt during removal.
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Loosen the rear wheel lugs.
Block the front tires, jack up the car, and place jack stands appropriately.
Remove the rear wheels.
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Access to the inner and outer CV joint bolts will depend on which model car you have. For example, access to the inner joint from above might be limited by oil sump or smog pump in your car.
This is where the various ratchet extensions might come into play for bolt removal.
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To keep the axle unit from turning when removing the outer bolts you can
engage the parking brake.
Or simply put the car in gear to keep the axle unit from turning when removing bolts from the inner or outer CV joints.
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When removing the outer CV joint bolts,
you will find it easier to access the bolt being removed by turning the hub,
so that the bolt to be removed is in the 3 o'clock position.
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To first break the bolt loose, use a long handle ratchet or torque wrench.
If the bolt is stubborn you might need to attach a breaker bar.

Before you start twisting, make sure that the 8-mm hex socket head is inserted all the way into the bolt head. Tap into place with a hammer if you feel the need.
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Once you break the bolts loose with the long handle ratchet,
you can switch to a stubby ratchet for quick removal of the bolts.

I use two 8-mm Hex sockets, one on each ratchet to speed things up.
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Continue placing the car into gear to lock the axle into place for bolt removal,
and into neutral to turn the axle into the next position until all of the inner and outer bolts have been removed.
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Once all of the bolt assemblies have been removed,
the axle assembly can then be removed from the car.
You might need to tap it with a rubber mallet to get it loose.
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Here is where things start to get messy.
Especially if a boot is torn and grease is coming out.

Use plastic bags to cover the ends of the CV joints to keep from getting grease all over the place.
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While you have the half shafts/CV joints out of the car,
it is a great time to inspect the CV joints for wear and tear before you replace the boots.
In order to inspect them properly, you need to remove all of the old grease.
Even if not replacing a CV joint, it is a good idea to remove all of the old grease from a joint that has had a boot go bad, as the grease can become contaminated from the elements.

This is where things can get real messy.
Plenty of shop rags, paper towels, or both are a must.
Use your favorite cleaner to gets parts clean for inspection.
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To replace the gaiters, or boots as some call them,
at least one of the CV joints must be removed from the half shafts.

Use a set of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the end of the axle.
Once the snap ring is removed, the CV joint can then be removed.
You might need to tap with a rubber mallet.
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Once you have the parts removed and cleaned,
it might be a good time to freshen things up if you are so inclined.

For example, the half shaft can be repainted.
I chose to use VHT Gloss Black Epoxy paint for them.

If the plated parts in your assembly are looking shabby, your options include...
leaving them as they are, having them re-plated, painting them, or replacing them with new parts.

The exterior of the CV joints tend to rust with age,
so I like to paint them with a Semi-Flat Black paint for added protection.
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As far as new boots, or CV joints go for that matter,
there are a number of typical Ferrari parts suppliers that stock them.
And if you are so inclined, you can also use Porsche parts,
as the CV joints and boots for a 78-85 Porsche 930 turbo are the same.
The Porsche CV Joint part number is 930 332 034 00.
One option for the CV joint boot is Porsche part number 928 332 924 02
which is a CV boot kit, consisting of the boot, clamps, snap ring, CV joint grease, and an end cap, which is not used in the Ferrari application.
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Once you have inspected, and or replaced the CV joints,
it's now time for reassembly.
Remember one end of the half shaft will still need the CV joint removed for replacement of the boots.
A little grease, oil, or other lubricating agent around the inside of the small end of the boot will help it slide down the axle into place.

Before sliding the boots into place, make sure you have packed the CV joints with grease.
Once the snap ring is in place and the joint is fully packed, slip a plastic bag over the end of the joint for protection.

Trying to slip the large end of the boot over the CV joint flange can have it's moments.
Changing gloves often during the process can help with your grip.
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Once you have installed the CV joints and boots, it's time to clamp or band the boots to prevent grease from escaping, and the elements from entering the CV joint.

There are many types of bands available to secure the boots in place.
I used stainless steel Band-it brand for my project.
To tighten the bands I used a CV joint boot clamp tightening wrench.
Available from NAPA as service tool part number 3191.

By the way, a great way to include your wife in your ferrari adventure
is to use her 200 year old table as your workbench.
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Once you have the assembly complete, simply reinstall in your Ferrari
replacing the bolt assemblies, and turning to gain access as in the removal process.

A little thread locking agent will help keep the bolts from backing out from the nuts.
Make sure all the bolts are torqued down properly.
Reinstall the rear wheels, and remove the jack stands.

Congratulations!
You have just saved yourself a pocket full of change by doing the labor yourself.
And you have become better acquainted with your Ferrari.
Now cleanup and have a few beers, you deserve it!
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After all, you own an old Ferrari.
Which means there are many more maintenance adventures to be had another day.
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Excellent write up Dave.

Another trick you can use, to keep the shaft from moving, while breaking loose the bolt, is to put a screw driver through the slots on the edge of the rotor so that it gets stopped by the caliper.

 

More like a fist full of dollars.

 

Good posting. Thanks. I'll put this into my maintenance book.

Bob Wassam

 

To save some mess, check your local yellow pages for axle rebuilders. After I removed mine, I had the boot kit and I took them in and they steam cleaned them then repacked and used my boot kit for $100. That old grease is a real mess and a real PITA.

 

Great posts!
Having done this, I can tell you to plan on 2 rolls of blue shop towels to do both axles. In addition to that, I soaked the CV once I'd "scooped" it out in gasoline (the cleaner of my choice!) and that got it completely clean. AAlso, go ahead and buy the tool to do the clamps if you can't borrow one or else you might end up like me having to re-do the clamps later on!

Finally, Can you post the volume of grease in those packets that came with the CV kit? There's been some discussion if the manual's recommendation of 140mL (?) is per joint or per axle.

 

Dave,
Nice write up and great pics! Don't forget that the CV bolts need to be torqued, and most people will be surprised how high the torque on them is. (It's around 60 ft-lbs if memory serves, but don't quote me...I need to look it up.)

I agree with Ernie that the screwdriver in the brake disk is the easiest way to lock the halfshaft so it won't rotate during torque and loosening, but still be able to easily unlock it so you can rotate to the next bolt.

Birdman