Mondial 3.2 Clutch Slave Cylinder | FerrariChat
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Mondial 3.2 Clutch Slave Cylinder

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Shark49, May 23, 2005.

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  1. Shark49

    Shark49 Formula Junior

    Mar 31, 2005
    773
    Boone, NC
    Full Name:
    Nathan
    #1 Shark49, May 23, 2005
    In doing a search for why my clutch pedal all of a sudden goes to the floor and wont come back led me to this thread:
    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53189&highlight=mondial+clutch

    How do I get to the slave cylinder? I have fluid leaking from that general area. I would like to try and bleed the air out and see if that works. I probably need to get a new slave cylinder and or a seal repair kit. Has anyone done this work and possibly have photos/instructions on what to do? Who sells a these items?
    Thanks in advance,
    Nathan
     
  2. geekstreet

    geekstreet Karting

    Feb 7, 2005
    220
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Cam
    #2 geekstreet, May 23, 2005
    If you have fluid leaking from the forward end of the engine (just ahead of the LH rear wheel) then you have probably blown the seal on the clutch slave cylinder. It is mounted vertically at the front LH of the engine block, above the clutch bell-housing and the starter motor. A flexible/braided hose leads from the top of the cylinder into the firewall, and the rod from the bottom of the cylinder fixes to the clutch release arm.

    You can access it by putting the rear up on stands and getting underneath, or maybe even better through the LH rear wheel arch (after removing wheel) if the inner arch liner can be removed?

    Original parts are avail from usual Ferrari sources, or alternatively you can probably just take it off and run it down to the nearest decent brake & clutch shop & get them to do a re-sleeve on it. This involves them reaming the cylinder out oversize & fitting a (usually) stainless-steel sleeve. You will need a new seal kit for the original piston, which is then re-fitted into the sleeved cylinder. Any decent shop should be able to quote you for it, otherwise you will probably need to chase-up a new complete cylinder assembly.

    Note that the seals usually go because the cylinder bore gets pitted by corrosion over time. Just changing the seals is only a short-term fix.
     
  3. Shark49

    Shark49 Formula Junior

    Mar 31, 2005
    773
    Boone, NC
    Full Name:
    Nathan
    #3 Shark49, May 24, 2005
    Yeah I will prolly just replace the whole cylinder. Thanks for the input and if anyone else wants to chime in on this please be my guest.
     
  4. Shark49

    Shark49 Formula Junior

    Mar 31, 2005
    773
    Boone, NC
    Full Name:
    Nathan
    #4 Shark49, May 27, 2005
    Well I got'er done. When my part came in from TRutlands (thanks Ted) I went to work. It wasn't as hard as I thought but it was still a pain in the ass. The easiest way to get to the slave cylinder is through the drivers side rear wheel. I jacked up the rear of the car, put it on jack stands and then proceeded to do the following:

    1. Took the wheel off

    2. Unscrewed the 8 screws holding the the fiberglass fender well in. Once you do this you can see the slave cylinder almost in front of you to the left but you can't get to the bolts through this way. You have to roll under the car and reach through the frame. It really sucks because of course its really tight in there. Getting to the air relief valve is near impossible. Be sure to use some eye protection because lots of crud will fall down on you.

    3. First I took the cotter pin out of the clutch arm fork. Then I used a 13mm socket to remove the two nuts holding the cylinder to the engine block clutch housing.

    4. Once you unbolt it, you can pull it off and then bring it down to where you can again get to it from the outside.

    5. I unbolted the hydraulic line and let it stay down and if any fluid dripped I had a pan underneath. I have learned in doing brakes that if you tie the line off pointing up, it can suck air into the line causing more work for you later on when you have to bleed it. On that note, make sure you over fill the brake reservoir too.

    6. Once the slave cylinder was removed, I had to remove the circlip that keeps the cylinder from sliding out of the mount. You need special pliers for this that when you squeeze, it actually pulls the circlip apart. Some people like to use thin flat head screwdrivers to pry but that is BAD! Griots has a nice set you can get.

    7. Once it is removed you basically reverse the steps above to put it back on. However, don't mount the cylinder to the block quite yet because you have to bleed the line of any air. This is where the pain in my ass started. Since you can't get to the bleed valve with a wrench when its mounted, you have to do the bleeding now with the cylinder loose. So what I did is put the required 7mm wrench on the valve using the round side so it stays on. Then I put the clear tube on it and made sure it drained to the pan. Next I took the arm and put it into the boot and then with one hand i held the cylinder with the arm pressed against a part of the car's frame and pushed down and loosened the valve at the same time. When I got it fully compressed I tightened the valve and then let the cylinder push itself back and thereby sucking more fluid into it. I repeated this step until I didnt see anymore bubbles coming out. I also checked the firmness of the clutch pedal. This process takes a few tries until you get the right grip etc. but worked for me.

    8. Once I got it firm enough, I made sure everything was tight. I remounted the cylinder to the block. Putting the cotter pin back in can be tough and I had to use a rag and screwdriver to pry it up so the holes meet.

    9. I took the time to spray a bunch of degreaser all around in there to help clean up the 20 years of grime and washed it down gently with a hose. To finish it off I put the fender well back in and mounted the tire.

    I warmed up my "Bella" and went for a drive. I first was gentle with the shifting to make sure I was ok but soon enough was driving her like she loves to go!

    I hope this helps some and good luck for any of you guys who need to do this. It really wasn't that hard or technical. Just requires some patience. I would say it only took me about 4 hours total to remove and remount and that's just because I discovered things as I went.
    -Nathan
     
    Faber likes this.

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