348 extra relays underhood?? | FerrariChat

348 extra relays underhood??

Discussion in '348/355' started by MaterMech, Dec 29, 2008.

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  1. MaterMech

    MaterMech Formula Junior

    Feb 26, 2007
    476
    Los Gatos CA
    Full Name:
    Mark Johnson
    #1 MaterMech, Dec 29, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2008
    This is driving up the wall! There are two extra relays next to the fusebox under the hood and electrical diagram does not show them. They control the front left and right low beams. I can jumper the relay socket to get them to come on but there is no voltage to the control side of the relays. The control wires go back to the main fusebox under the hood. Am I missing something? Is this info burried in the repair manual? Were there different schematics issued for this? In the attached thread you can clearly see the two relays set appart from the box. Also notice that they are not shown in the breakout of the fusebox.


    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220793&highlight=headlight+relays

    Regards,
    Mark
     
  2. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    Hi, Mark; I don't see those two relays in the wiring diagrams, but they DO appear in the parts book, shown as ""Valid for USA and CDN". I take it that your problem is that your low beams don't work?
     
  3. MaterMech

    MaterMech Formula Junior

    Feb 26, 2007
    476
    Los Gatos CA
    Full Name:
    Mark Johnson
    #3 MaterMech, Dec 31, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2008
    Yes that is correct both dipped beams do not come on. I suppose there was a supplement to the wiring diagrams for American and Canadian cars that would show these two relays. I checked all the numbers against the parts catalog and all the relays are correct. The interesting thing is that the repair manual shows relay e (dipped beam control relay) to be a 0332014113f instead of a 0332014113. When looking at all of the 0332014113 relays in the fusebox I see no relay with the f as part of the part#. Also the schematics on all of those relays are the same. Jeff can you tell if relay e is somehow different either in the # stamping or the schematic on it? The dipped beams never worked and I suspect something simple is the cause. Jeff your help is greatly appriceted as I seem to always come up with the obscure questions. Hopefully this thread will help to add to the knowledge base as I have found nothing in searches.
     
  4. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    It's cool, mate. Just to give a head start on looking at the problem, you say that the low beams will come on if you run a jumper through the relay socket, correct? So we know that the bulbs themselves are OK, and the wiring from the relay to the headlights is OK? And we know that there is battery power to the relay, just no "signal"?

    Do the high beams work OK? Do the fog lights work OK?

    I agree that the problem is something simple.

    I'll check the relays on my car in a little bit - I'm stuck here on "bill paying day".
     
  5. MaterMech

    MaterMech Formula Junior

    Feb 26, 2007
    476
    Los Gatos CA
    Full Name:
    Mark Johnson
    Yes all other lighting works correctly. Bulbs,wiring, and grounds have been ruled out. Those two extra relays control the current for the left and right bulbs and when pins 30 and 87 are jumpered the lights come on. I have a feeling relay e controls those two relays which is kind of silly. The relay sockets have green and green/black wires which run back to conectors I6 and B4 on the fusebox respectively. Those are the control wires and then there is a common ground. I opened up the fusebox expecting to find a cold solder joint or something but nothing stood out and I did not feel like reflowing the solder on all of the conections. I'm starting to suspect the fusebox but I know I'm doing things the hard way.
     
  6. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    I thought about this today, and did some studying in the wiring diagram, but when I went out to do some checks on the car, I found my battery too weak to start it up, so I couldn't run the lights, either.

    It's safe to assume that something is different between the USA model and the European model, necessitating the extra relays. One clue might be the green and green/black wires going to the USA relays, since these are the colors for the main power feeds to the left and right HIGH beams. I wonder if maybe these relays prevent the low beams from operating while the high beams are on??? At some point there must be a problem with the 85 or 86 circuit, which is not triggering the completion of the 30/87 circuit in the USA relays. But you already know that....

    I checked the E and F relays on my car, they are identical in all ways, as far as I can see, so I can't explain the "f" designation on E in the owners handbook.

    I'll be gone until Friday, will check your progress then. Good hunting!
     
  7. MaterMech

    MaterMech Formula Junior

    Feb 26, 2007
    476
    Los Gatos CA
    Full Name:
    Mark Johnson
    I take a big gulp as I write the fix because the wiring diagram would have saved hours of headscratching. So Milotan got me thinking how simple this circuit is and I started thinking about the NC/NO option of the relay. When Milotan said that the green and green/black wires are also the wires to the highbeams it clicked that you want a logical inversion of the high/low operation. So I tested and found that there is indeed switched voltage supply for the bulb at pin 87a supplied by relay e, and that there was voltage on the green control wires when the highbeams were on. So the next logical step was to test the resistance across the normally closed contacts. Low and behold there was about 100 ohms on both relays. So I immeadiatly swapped in two relays that tested 1 ohm and the lights worked normally.

    In conclusion I postulate that the difference between the Euro and American cars is that on Euro cars the lowbeams probably stay on during the operation of the highbeams. I got to thinking I might actually like that too and to accomplish that all one needs to do is leave a jumper wire conected to pins 87a and 30 on both relay sockets. It's no surprise that these relays ended up scorched as they switch on and off 4 Amps to the bulbs. There is no diode protection for EMF kickback and the contacts ended up wasted as a result of switching back and forth between high and low beams. Ferrari should have chose a relay that had 4 amp diode backwards against the contacts of 87a and 30. New relays are highly affoardable so I will probably be replacing quite a few through out the car. Lesson learned and now passed on to The Brotherhood. :)
     
  8. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    Good writeup, it's nice to see that you figured it out and everything is working again!

    Oh, it's "Miltonian" (from Milton), not "Milotan".
     

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