355 Spider Top not working

Mine stopped working this morning, passenger seat potentiometer is down; the problem seems to have stopped the seat moving too. The seat will move using the diagnostics but not with the switch !!!

I have removed the pot and can quantify that they are **** ! very clever but fragile, even manually adjusting the internal pot doesnt seem to bring the seat to life yet the resistance is changing correctly on the diagnostics?

Amazingly the weather is good here so its not a problem for today.

 

I've done work over the last 12 years for my local Ferrari specialist, they always put me to the front of the queue now if I have a problem, we just connected the diagnostics to the ECU located between the seats, when the seats are moved back and foyrth the resistance of the potentiometer alters significantly, when tested, the passenger one stayed the same.

The problem with the design is that the drive to the pot is on a tiny ball and cup which has been designed to have a certain amount of slip in its drive so that it can not be over driven or snapped, unfortunately it doesnt take much before they wear against each other a fail. I've had the unit apart and there isnt really much you can do to repair it.

Sorry but its time for a costly new one, when mine appears i will post a how to guide.

 

I wouldnt like to make an assumption as the pots really are that delicate, they rely on the friction of the ball joint in the cup to drive them, any excess force and they seem to be too slack to drive the pot.

I was lucky as i had easy access to an SD3, may be you could try to check the resistance with a Digital Multi Meter to see if the resistance changes as the seat moves, the cables for the pot are accessible from the front of the seat if you remove the over mat from the floor. I have never tried this though, it is simply a suggestion.

If I remember rightly at the fully back position the pot read 56 ohms at the fully forward it read 2000 ohms, now there was no indication of whether this was milli-ohms ok K-ohms so just put the meter on auto ranging, as long as there is a noticeable difference you should find the faulty unit.

 

There are Jaguar pots that are supposedly compatible and cheaper. Search the board.
As long as both seats go all the way back and forth with the seat adjustment switches and the top works fine with the bypass switches, then it is likely the pots. If the seats do not move all the way, check the tracks for debris. Once you get new pots, you will have to take the car in to have them calibrated with an SD.

See:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199382
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207662

Also note:

If you are going to repair your potentiometers, please read this first:
After you put the new potentiometer on the seat, DO NOT screw the seat back in place. Use the seat controls to move the seat all the way one direction, then connect the potentiometer. Next move the seat all the way in the other direction, then all the way back. You will notice that the seat will not move all the way to both extremes. It needs calibrated with an SD1 computer at a shop. When you screw the seats back in, make sure that the connectors for the potentiometers are in front of the power seat motor where you can reach them after the seats are in. Since the seats do not move all the way, you may need to disconnect the potentiometer at some point. This will allow you to move the seat to both extremes so that you can remove or install the seat screws. The potentiometer tells the computer when to stop moving the seats. With the potentiometer disconnected, the seats will move all the way to both extremes.

 

This happened with my dad's top and it had to get fixed by the dealer. He was not happy

 

+1

You can repair or install all the parts yourself if you feel you are capable enough to do so.
Once done however, you need to have the Dealership calibrate the top with their computers.

 

I can confirm the requirement for calibration because I have replaced my potentiometers and had the seat positions calibrated by an SD.

 

So the dealer quoted two hours to diagnose, You spent five on diagnosis and repair, which sounds like a fair charge, at another facility. I don't see where the dealer was out of line or how you saved any money at this point. On top of that you are assuming the dealer would not have offered the same repair rather then replacing the harness and they very likely may have found the concern much quicker with an SD2 or SD1. Dealer was never given a chance to fix the car and still bashed as too expensive.

 

I've been to both places a number of times each and have been able to compare the approach and the charges, Mike. The tech Blampee took his car to--Craig at The Jag Shop-- has been for me the consistently better choice. How many times have you taken a Ferrari in for service at a dealer vs. the independent garage? (Your profile indicates that you don't own and seem never to have owned a Ferrari or other foreign car). Carlo is an independent in Tacoma; Brian (Rifledriver) is an independent in the Bay Area. They are held rightly in very high esteem. Sometimes dealers are better and as cost effective as an independent; sometimes not.

I brought my car in to the dealer with the A/C not working. First they replaced the control unit; still not working, then they found an auxiliary fan they hadn't seen the first time around and fixed that and the problem. Did they take out the new control panel and give me back mine, which was not sticky and in perfectly good working order and eat the labor cost for their misdiagnosis? No. I was out $4,500 and just told "sorry." $4,500 for a non-functioning A/C fan. You, sir, are the one who doesn't know what he's talking about.

 

The failure is probably due to the fact your car got wet, your pix proves it!

Yes, the paint won't melt when wet, but everything else will malfunction.....

 

I am not discrediting any of the independent options you mentioned, respected and qualified individuals. One of the many reasons the dealers labor rates are higher is that once the cars are out of warranty many of the vehicles go to independents for all but the most difficult work or work that requires specific expensive tooling or test equipment.
opportunitys to do the profitable work that offsets the low profit electrical or electronic repairs.

I do know what I am talking about. I may be new to the area but I have been factory trained from 348 to current 430 lineup including 16 years with Challenge cars. I just relocated to Washington to retire.

If you are happy with your service choices great. I find it odd that rather then simply forwarding you successfull experience with your technician and a problem other may look for you found it necessary to throw in negative feedback regarding a dealer wo was likely asked for an estimate and best guess over the phone and never given an opportunity to look at or correct the problem.

No hositilty was intended so I hope it was not taken that way. Likely I should have chosen a different subject to respond to so shortly after joining.

 

Welcome Mike...glad you have decided to be on this site.

Believe me, there are some great guys here on this site and some real morons....just let the stupid and blind go their own way.....the ones who value your expertise will always appreciate it and respond kindly.