Clutch slipping $ $ $

Driving about 80 today I jumped down pretty hard on it to pass
and the clutch slipped, engine reved a coupe 1000 extra I let off quickly
and made it home OK. Seems ok in the lower gears but I am sure
it's a sign of failure. Now the question this clutch setup has about 12K miles
on it what is everyones take on replacing the clutch disk only
and not the PP too, also who has the best price on clutches now.

 

Oh yeah this is a manual not F1

 

The Ferrari Dealership said best case scenario for mine would be $3500 worse $11000. They won't know until they open up the clutch so see how much work has to be done.

Looking back in my papers a previous owner bought a clutch and PP for $1100.

 

Ouch ! I will do mine myself but would like
to get a good buy on the bits

 

Try Ricambi or maybe Ferrparts?

 

You can probably have the clutch plate re-lined for a few hundred bucks. A few Fchatters have had it done before and I will go that way next time myself.

I am sure you will be able to re-use the pressure plate and flywheel without having them machined.

Its a 2-3 hr job. Easy done.

 

Thanks PAP

 

Had the twin disc clutch in my 99 Esprit relined and flywheel refinished for $250 from a local shop here. They did an amazing job. Clutch is noticably better than the original. I've put on about 3-4k miles since then and still feels as new.

 

I think I will go with the reline, but I really don't know anybody
capable...any F-chatters know someone in Midwest Dallas, KC, st Louis

 

That's robbery. My last clutch was $1200 parts and labor, good independent (manual). That was with repack of the flywheel too, which had slung grease everywhere. $2500 at a certified dealer. I think the part is about $750 from Ricambi.

 

FatBillyBob is the present expert on getting clutch relined for 348 and 355. Shoot him a message.

 

+1 I'm relining next time too...flywheel was fine, just needed a new pressure plate though.

 

I wonder when I am do for the clutch ....

 

Is this easier to do when the engine is out? I may just do mine if it's significantly easier engine out as mine is atm. Thanks y'all.

 

Nah man, probably easier to do while the engine is in place.

Just drop the exhaust and your laughing.

 

Absolute robbery, I have just done my 355 F1 clutch myself it is not a difficult task but you do need some mechanical knowledge and adequate tooling but nothing extensive the only thing that I have yet to do is take to the dealer so it can be set up to it's optimum point(not relevent to manual cars) cost for the clutch friction plate was £250 from eurospares.

 

thanks Pap.

 

You're right mate, anytime.

 

The 355 does need to have the rear bumper removed to access all behind, due to the diffusers. This is an easy job.
• Undo bolts holding side diffusers on
• Undo bolts from rear heat shield to bottom of bumper
• Undo light connection
• Undo 4 large main nuts behind either side of the number plate
• Remove rear wheels
• Remove rear wheel arch cover
• Undo 4 side nuts – 2 each side on bracket here
• Catch bumper before it falls off
Top sides
• I find it best to remove air intakes filter assemblies completely, gives better access
• Remove heat shield
• Undo 2 bolts at top of by pass exhaust. Lower one a bit fiddly
• Undo lower exhaust clamps each side.
• Then bolts holding exhaust onto main brackets each side.
• Catch exhaust before it falls on floor
Clutch itself
• Turn off battery
• Undo 3 starter motor bolts
• Pull back
• Undo rest of nuts, taking care with clutch fluid pipe mounting on left. Do this with last 3 gently a little at a time so one side doesn’t twist
• Pull clutch unit off
Triple seals
• Enough has been written over the years about replacing these – do it! I believe these seals to be the root of all evil in the clutch. They leak, clutch slips, it heats up and causes untold damage, flywheel warps and grease goes liquid, diagram warps etc etc.
Clutch bearing
• Consider the hills replacement, search for all thats been written.
• I wouldn’t bother with the hills flange unless any leaks, and if you do remember to buy the 2 little o rings behind it as well as the seal ring from Ferrari. And get that seal pushed in right, it leaks if you don't.
Flywheel
• If any grease about needs replacing, its not quite same as 348 but possible. Problem is getting equivalent bearings if they need replacing.
• Flywheel should be near as damit flat. It comes with a very slight dish, but you can hardly see this. If it has been cooked it warps and becomes very dished. This results in excessive wear on plate on outside and clutch slipping a lot easier as only small part of it is gripping, although you wont notice too much in everyday use.
• To check flatness I break a hacksaw blade to correct length and lay in across to have a look. These flywheels can be ground, but see note above and below re bearings.
• Apparently Ferrari commissioned the 2 flywheel bearings to have different faces on each side. These you cant get from Ferrari or anywhere else I have found. Although I did buy some that may work, will be testing soon! The main rear bearing can be bought and I think after market is fine, that has worked after 6 months hard use anyway.
Diaphragms
• Need checking for flatness, height and clamping pressure. Again just use a straight edge for flatness, they can be ground down, but need to make sure any removed material is added back somewhere. My clutch shop has now done a couple of these where they add a ring to the back and then grind that down to ensure exactly the same spec as original.
Refacing
• Check which diameter you need to go for, the manual has figures for a 95 one at 8.3mm and an upgraded one in 99 of 8.9. I used 95 for a while and wondered why they didn’t last long. The figures for the diaphragms are the same, the only other difference I think is the amount of grease in the flywheel increased from 150 to 220 grams.
• We, as in my clutch shop, have now got hold of genuine valeo replacement material from germany. We bond or rivet on, bonding gives more strength if you need it. I can get one done for you for £100, but it would have to be a replacement.
•
By way, if anyone has an old clutch plate they don't want please can I have it so we can offer a few of these resurfaced ones without having to wait for an old one to be sent out first? I’ll pay a few squids plus postage of course.
Sending a plate to US isn’t too expensive, the heavier diaphragm gets a bit more so probably not worth it. But do let me know if you want a plate.

 

Fantastic post Andrew!

 

+1. Nice job, sounds very familiar (just did my clutch last Sunday).

 

sandy; what do I look out for, I am doing mine this weekend.

 

Not sure you can want anything more than I posted, was there anything particular you were worried about?

 

If you're just replacing the clutch disc - it's all pretty easy sailing until you come to the point where you want to remove the pumpkin and start taking it apart and re-assembling.

Removing the pumpkin (while on the car):
- Brace yourself, it's heavy/awkward. Get a good grip on the thing and have it well supported. Best if you can get a friend to help. Don't be afraid to use a little muscle pulling it off.

Taking apart the pumpkin (on the workbench).
- Carefully loosen the bolts a bit at a time. Take the approach I did and go around loosening every other one. Continue until all the bolts are out.

- Important: mark the exact point that the pressure plate mates up with everything else before taking it off. It's weighted "just so" and if you put it back on "any old way", you'll be sorry.

After cleaning up the housing area (loose gunk and some fluid will be present no doubt) and replacing the clutch disc, you'll be ready to put it back together.

Re-assembling the pumpkin
- Make sure you get it all lined up according to the marks you made (above).

- Critical: Ensure the center is lined up perfectly or this thing is not going back on the driveshaft. Once you start tightening the bolts back down, things can shift around - so to avoid this, you can buy the specific Ferrari tool used to keep it all in place or you can play MacGyver and just get a big socket (sorry, I forget what size I used...just trial and error...you want it reasonably snug) to rest in the middle and keep it well aligned while you tighten down the pressure plate.

- Retighten the bolts in the same manner you loosened them.

Put the pumpkin back on the driveshaft.
- With some luck, it should initially slide right on for the first little bit. Assuming the car is up on jack stands a few inches off the ground (and not way up on a lift) - at this point you'll need to rare back and kick the crap out of the center of the pumpkin to get it all the way on. Don't be bashful...stomp it with your heel pretty good.

From there on out, it's pretty straightforward to put it all back together.

You'll want to be somewhat gentle on the clutch for a while until it beds in. I wouldn't go above 6,000 rpm for maybe the first 50 miles or so...and no burn-outs! It'll feel strange at first too...that's normal.

For the real experts out there...I'm just a lowly Stooge Apprentice. If I've mis-stated something please be gentle when correcting this post.

Hope this helps.

 

Sandy thats the kind of info i needed , real world not "How its supposed to work" when I am at the rear of the car should I take the small cover off first (has the horse on it 4"dia or so) or do I just leave it and pull the larger cover assuming it will come off with the big cover, at that point will the clutch assembly just slide off in my lap or is there another nut or locking piece.

Terry