Ok guys...Re-installing my clutch pack on my 348 | FerrariChat
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Ok guys...Re-installing my clutch pack on my 348

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by PassionIsFerrari, Dec 28, 2004.

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  1. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    #1 PassionIsFerrari, Dec 28, 2004
    1.) Should I bleed the clutch before I re-install the clutch pack....Bleed it after installing the clutch pack...or does it not matter either way?

    2.) Also, my brakes have normal pressure in them. Is neccessary to bleed all the brake lines as well...some have told me yes...some have told me no.

    3.)clutch teeth are a hair off being perfectly aligned when you eyeball them...big deal or no? f

    4.) will they re-align once on the output shaft?

    Flywheel has been repacked...250 grams of Kluber GLK 1301..one disc replaced because it was burnt too bad...other one was well within spec. flywheel resurfaced as well.

    Thanks for all your help....Not even being close to possible without the help of guys like Ernie, Rifledriver, Fatbillybob, ShaneB, JackRussellRacing and quite a few others that are extremely knowledgable on this.

    Crossing my fingers...
     
  2. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Consultant Professional Ferrari Technician

    Sep 18, 2002
    19,948
    The Cold North
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #2 tbakowsky, Dec 28, 2004
    You must bleed the clutch with everything all back together. If you try to bleed it with the clutch pack removed..you will damage the slave/bearing assembly and snap the roll pin.

    If you cannot get the plates aligned it will not go in. Do not try to force it in place..you will end up with a chattering clutch or worse. You could try to leave the bolts loose that fasten the the pressure plate to the flywheel, and then install the unit. Once you have it installed, use a 13mm wrench through the side vent holes to snug the clutch assembly. Try to tighten all the bolts about the same, you will have to rotate the assembly to get to all the bolts obviously. Once you have it tight enough to keep the plates from moving..remove the clutch housing and torque to spec.


    You don't really need to bleed the brake after words..unless the master emptied out..but this can't really happen becuase the line that feeds the clutch master is higher in the resivoir. It really can't drain anylower then the cluch master feed line.
     
  3. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    #3 PassionIsFerrari, Dec 29, 2004
    I fought with that thing for hours trying to get it to fit....Every which way. Gave up on it last night....Drove to Atlanta today (needed some stuff anyway) and took the clutch pack to Ferrari Of Atlanta...Everytime I go there or order parts from there, the are the nicest people I have ever dealt with. I looked like crap when I went in there but they still treated me like gold. Anyway, gave the clutch pack to their service tech (Wade was his name, super nice guy)...The aligned it and I was out of there in 30 min (no appointment or anything) with a couple of bags of goodies too...shirts, hats yada yada...Got home and the pack slid in place like butter...Think I am going to replace a couple more seals that i left alone on the T/O bearing per recommendation of Wade. He said that when you pull the T/O bearing off you should replace all the seals....something about pulling it off makes it travel farther then it ever has...So might as well replace them all while i am down there.
     
  4. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    #4 PassionIsFerrari, Dec 30, 2004
    Ended up replacing the two slave seals in the front and back....all the others i left on (not even sure if you can replace the T/O seals...Put it all back together...mufflers, airbox, heat shields.....cranked it up for the first time in two months....let it idle for about 20 min to let the computers restart (since it was disconnected when I put a new battery in...I would like to check the oil levels since i put about 10 quarts in...and was going to slowly add the other 2 quarts but i cant get a reading because the back of the car is on ramps....so its at an angle....going to bleed the clutch tonight...drive it off the ramps and finish adding the oil.

    How low is too low on oil in a 348?
     
  5. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #5 ernie, Dec 31, 2004
    Hey Aaron, glad to hear you got the clutch finished. Nice job.

    As for the oil, don't add any more oil, because you are at the system max. It holds 11.9 quarts. The low mark on the dip stick is about 2 quarts. At that point you have 10 quarts left in the system. I wouldn't let it get lower than that. You could probably get away with being another quart low, but I wouldn't push it. If it gets lower you run the risk of some air bubbles getting into the oil. Air in the oil is not good because it won't coat evenly as it goes into the engine. Just fill it to the full level on the dip stick and you'll be good to go. Also when you check the oil level you want to have the car level and the engine warm. You can check the oil with the engine idling. The book says to check the oil just after engine shut off, and after the engine is warm. I have checked the oil both ways and you get the same reading. So I just do it with the car idling, and the engine good and warm, normally after a good drive.
     
  6. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    #6 PassionIsFerrari, Jan 3, 2005
    1.) Im having trouble getting all the air out of the clutch line...How do you know when you have good pressure in your clutch...I drove it around...It shifts properly but the clutch action feels really light up top..and its not as hard to push in the clutch as it used to be...

    2.) Overfilled the oil tank by a couple of centimeters....when i was driving my oil pressure was very high...about 105lbs/in at 3500 rpm....drained some of the oil out of it and now it sits at 80% full....oil pressure is probably between 90-95 at a little of over 4000 rpm....Is that a normal range...When it was too high...it was at the tick mark just right of the middle (70)....now it is half way in between the 70 (middle) and the right tick mark..(just to give you a guage visual of what i am reading)

    3.) Are the clutch and flywheel assemblys loud on this car...Everytime i am in neutral I can hear that assembly spinning back there...before the clutch job and after it...But when I engage the clutch i dont hear it anymore...Is this normal?

    4.) I still have a whistling noise when i accelerate pretty hard with the targa top off...I use to think it was something to do with the clutch but now I am thinking it might have to do with the way the wind is hitting a seal, or crack and making the whistling noise...Anybody else every experienced this...I am going to try to drive the car with the top up and the windows up and see if that makes a difference...

    Thanks guys for all the help so far
     
  7. jkuk

    jkuk Formula Junior

    Nov 3, 2003
    259
    Wirral, UK
    Full Name:
    John K
    #7 jkuk, Jan 4, 2005


    Aaron,

    My thoughts above

    Cheers

    John
     

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