Mondial Starting Problem

Did this happen before you replaced the starter? I hope not; or I hope you kept the old one if so because it's likely still good.

Sounds like the fuse box is where the trouble is. The buzz you hear is the tipoff. When cold, you get enough juice but the bad fuse connector gets hot, which adds resistence so when you try and restart it doesn't let enough current through.

The Mondial experts can chime in exactly which connectors to check.

My $.02

Ken

 

There is a mod that involves installing a relay. Check the archives for details and pics of how to install the relay.

Did you replace the solenoid with the starter?

 

Read through the archives as the relay mod was done for cars that could have this problem 2 minutes after starting.

 

I had a similar problem when I first got my '84 Mondial QV. You really have to go through the system and check all of the wires in the starter circuit. In my case, the ground was the problem, as is usually the case with things like this. Do you still have that stupid battery switch near the battery that Ferrari installs? If so, remove it and remove the woven ground strap. Mine was completely corroded. Replace them with a new battery cable that runs directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the ground on the chassis. Make sure you clean the grounding point very well.

Also, check the engine grounding straps, and possibly add one to the engine (won't hurt). And if the 3.2 is like the older cars, check the cable that runs from the battery to the starter. There is a connection in there somewhere that is prone to corrosion (underneath the car, toward the rear, not far from the starter, as I recall). Clean that connection up. Also, check all the connections in the fuse box and all wires at the starter as well. Hot starting problems are usually because heat increases resistance, and causes corroded connections to lose conductivity.

Hope that helps.

Steve

p.s. Pick up some spray battery corrosion protector and spray up all the connections once you've got them good and clean and tight.

 

yup - had same problems on 89 mondial 3.2 - previous owner didnt really look after it and one of the problems i inherited was this one - as everyone says , clean everything check connections, check condition of cables, check fusebox also as they are not the best have fun fault finding

 

The other fix for this is to bypass the fuse panel for the fuel pump to a seperate fuse holder...........Zertec is working on a new improved mondial fuse panel

 

I have always had this annoying problem and its very eratic, one minute its fine the next its not, I got to the point where if the car started I would just go for a drive and then straight back to the garage and never leave it anywhere, it would be fine for three months and then would play up all the while, I changed the battery and it was still the same, I turn the switch in the front of car the car, turn the key and you would here the buzz of the fuel pump, as soon as you turn the key you here the tone of the buzz change lower like the power is being sucked elsewhere but nothing happens, I've never thought of removing the switch as I thought that you get battery drain in the system if you leave it hence I flick that switch after each time I use it, I was going to have the Starter rewound but I know they are really hard to get to, does anyone know if its an engine out job to do the starter?

 

No its not an engine out job, its a reach through the wheel arch / underneath job though, and if you havent cleaned the bottom of the engine in some time its a tad gruby!

 

in reference to the buzz that would be the fuel pump pressurizing the system, it kicks on just before the starter engages.
it does sound like a bad solenoid though.

 

I had the same problem, I could hear the fuel pump and also the starter motor spinning but failing to engage. Do you have an inmobiliser fitted to the car ? One of the problems with this car, and many other Fcars is the quality of the electrical components and switches, there is a voltage drop at the stater stage on the inginition switch, its made worse if you have an imobiliser fitted.
I got around the problem by fitting a relay at the starter end to ensure that I did not have a voltage drop at the solenoid. Check back thru the threads, I did post a diagram showing the installation of the relay. If you cannot find it i am sure I have the diagram somewhere. It solved my problem !

 

Most Mondials have a similar problem. I actually had the ignition in my Mondial t replaced versus the starter and the problem went away. After inspecting the connections, starter, etc, my mechanic cleaned all connections, but suggested the problem would be eliminated with the new ignition. No problem in 6 months and counting. He said the relay solution works, but I liked the idea of just replacing the part causing the problem.

That buzz you hear, BTW, is your fuel pump engaging.

 

Ferrari had a tech bulletin for this on the t models. They have a wiring up grade kit that has a relay in it as the recommended fix. Last I saw it was about $325.00. But for $15.00 I made my own and haven’t had a problem with mine in almost three years.

Just steal some power for your solenoid from the direct hot lead that runs to the starter and run it through the relay. Then use your ignition switch lead to activate the relay. You can even put in an in-line fuse to prevent getting too much juice to the solenoid.

Took about 45 minuets to install once I figured out how to run the wires.

Good luck.

 

OK for the first time ever since owning the car, my mondi didn't even turn over this past friday. All the lights and windows worked, using a volt meter across the poles I had 12 volts, I cleaned and worked the ground strap and factory cut-off switch, still no cranking.

So I got the battery out (the taking the wheel off to access the wheel well panel is just nutty so I sovled that...more on that later) and got the battery tested....dead battery/bad cell. I got a new replacement and now everything works wonderfully again.

Now for the real question: what caused a 1 year old battery to fail? My mechanic suggested that I buy a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter (odly enough from any camping supply store- cheapest there- around $15) and drive around town while it's plugged in. There should be 12 volts before the engine is cranked, a little less if any accessories are turned on, but 13-13.5 volts when the car is running. Driving around town under load and noting the voltage range will let me know about the state of my charging system and is a good place to start. I'm getting one tomorrow and will give an update.

Follow up:
1. I still would like to see a voltage gauge on all cars vs. the idiot light
2. The battery that I had in the car was a size group 41. I changed it to one that had the same foot print, but not as wide (to let it come out from the top and not through the wheel well), although it is a little taller- just fits height wise. It has a built-in carry strap, and the posts are in the middle of the top without being at the corners and in a cut-out, like the previous battery, that makes it almost impossible to get jumper cables in there.

(OK, I'll fess up, some time ago, the first time I took the cabrio to Tahoe, I left the driving lights on while I played 18 at Edgewood and had to get a jump from a........golf cart- yes in front of everyone- sorry guys about the ding on the F-car image, but I had the car only two weeks so made a newbie mistake.)

 

I just had this problem today too.

drove the car to lunch. Came back to the car, thing would not start. Just heard a click or something from the back of the car. No engine turn over.

I tried 4-5 times. Same thing. Checked AC/Radio ect..all were working.

Got out ...spent 5 mins or so thinking about what to do...came back. This time (maybe no relation...) I turned off the radio/Ac and it started right up.

btw - Mondial T 1989

 

Classic signs of a bad battery. There's enough juice to run the electrics, but not enough to engage the starter. That happend to me once before it finally quit and I discovered the battery had a bad cell. Furthermore, I'm betting that what I later discovered was a burn-out at the fuel pump pin in the fuse panel bus contributed to the death of a 1yr. old battery. Better check both, before you find yourself stuck and in need of a tow.

 

My '84 seems to have "caught" this. I'm not electrically astute so off to the shop where the starter was removed, rebuilt, replaced, and the other issues in this thread checked also.

Problem solved.........for about 6 days. Now back and worse than ever.

Hook up the charger, starts right up afterwards. Literally hours later the issue will return, and the meter on the charger agains shows the battery taking a charge.

After a rolling start-up, it will start again. Once.

Going for a new Die Hard today; any other ideas?

 

Go to your local RV supply store (it's the cheapest place to buy one and they usually have them in stock vs. the auto parts stores), not in your Ferrari (or you'll pay full price...I made this mistake) and get a digital, plug into the cigarette lighter voltmeter. When the car is running again, check the voltage reading both after the car is running and with the motor off. With the motor off it should read around 12.9 volts. With the motor running, about 13.9 volts. Now try running around town checking the voltage with and without all the normal accessories on ( A/C, radio, etc). Note if there are any significant changes.

Also, check your connector bus that handles the fuel pump for the typical burnout.

Needless to say if the voltage drops below 12 volts at any time, you'll have to check your charging system.

Let us know what you found.