1985 Euro Testarossa electrical / ignition system troubleshooter? | FerrariChat

1985 Euro Testarossa electrical / ignition system troubleshooter?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by teveo, Nov 5, 2022.

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  1. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Hello, I find a lot of info on US cars but not on early cars, does anyone have a link or info to diagram or description of the ignition system on early Euro cars?

    Having spent a few years getting my 85 back on the road but stuck on no ignition / spark. (Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ?) Short story, Euro testatossa, in the US for 15 years, car was built back to Euro spec and ran fine. Time for cam belts and all of the hoses were changed as well ("DIY major)". Then I decided to get an aftermarket exhaust, "Larini 8 month delivery". :mad: Then Larini how to make the system fit. :mad:.
    I have fuel delivery, a new tacho relay (Lucas) made in Germany. Tried a jumper wire at the relay as well.
    https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/756?prefer_full_site=1
    Cleaned the sensors, checked the resistance and so on. When installing the Larini exhaust I decided to fabricate and weld on the left side upper exhaust bracket, I had it clamped on earlier.
    Battery was disconnected and I MIG welded. I always take out the battery when welding.

    I have to approach this very systematic now, fed up guessing. Since I have no spark I have to check the components in the ignition system.

    Am I right assuming that the only ECU (ICU) my car have is the unit on the left rear inner fender?
     
  2. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,785
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    That's it. First things to do are:

    1. Inspect/clean/rewipe the 4-pin C10 connector under the coolant expansion tank -- it's a horrible design and needs the supporting cable clips to be in place to prevent fretting at the terminal contacts. It's not shown on your simplified ignition schematic, but it is shown on the ignition system schematic on page I22 of the TR WSM.

    2. Measure the AC voltage between the two wires of the RPM Sensor 11 (with everything plugged in) during starter motor cranking = should be about 2.0 V AC.

    3. Measure the AC voltage between the two wires of the TDC Sensor 14 (with everything plugged in) during starter motor cranking = should be about 0.2 V AC (this can be done at the Diagnostic Socket 15).
     
  4. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Hello Steve, Thanks for chiming in!

    All terminals, connectors and fuses are brushed or cleaned, will check voltage at sensors when I have a friend to help out.

    I was just up in my garage and checked the volts at the the icu/ecu and the relay at the starter. No idea what the ecu pins should have but most are 0 volts a few 2-4 but none at 12 v with ignition on. Volts at starter is good.

    Current status is that The lights in the dash does not come on, slight blur in the charge lamp though.

    I twist the key to crank and see if the new tacho relay at least make the tach work, engine cranks, then I stop and suddenly the dash lamps are back on. Crank again and it fires immediately but dies and dash lights are out again.

    I have not checked the ignition switch, according to wiring it seem to send 12 volt to ecu. Maybe switch is the culprit. Have to check it but that’s for tomorrow.

    Happy that it fired though, the ignition ecu is around 2k trade in for repair and since it fired when the lights came on I do not think it is the problem.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    The photo is pin 13, it is the one coming from the ignition switch, 3.88 volt does not seem fair :)
     
  6. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    The switch was the problem!

    Took it apart, cleaned slightly with contact spray. Two black cables were cut and disconnected and I left them like that.

    Fired up and rather load :)
     

    Attached Files:

  7. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Short summary in case someone experience similar problems.

    First off check all the usual problem areas that Steve pointed out. I had already cleaned and checked those apart of the "live" measurements.
    If you have "dark" or weak lights in the dashboard like I had it can be a bad switch. Measure pin 13 on the ICU (only one on K-jet/early cars) it should show 12 volts.

    The switch is rather easy to get out of the column I don't think you have to pull the steering wheel like I did but it was better to work with the wheel off.
    1) Off with the steering wheel
    2) lower the steering column (take out the large bolt with adjusting lever) and drop the column further
    3) off with the plastic covers.
    4) remove the small screw on the side of the lock (Phillips head) and push in the pin on the opposite side
    5) wiggle out the switch.

    I used a spray based electronic cleaner and exercised the switch and now it is fine. The contact points inside the switch is hard to get to without dismantling the switch totally and I would recommend spray cleaner and then maybe spray dielectric grease.

    Some details on the lock here, seem to be possible to replace contact points.
    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/testarossa-ignition-switch-replacement.640974/

    When working on cleaning the fusebox and relays I came to think of whether it would be a good idea to install a cooling fan for the fusebox area just a small powerful PC fan, the venting need be sorted out though.
     
  8. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    9,525
    southwest Germany, France ( Alsace ) and Thailand
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    I not think this will help much. the "heat" comes on 1 point and around is all plastic, so nothing to can cool down easy like metal
    but nevertheless a good idea to try and see what will happen
     
  9. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Yes, it may be a longshot but it would be interesting to put a temp measuring device (that can record history) in there and see what degrees it gets up to. It seem to be a very closed area when the cover is shut. It would be a fun, cheap and small mod if it worked.

    Or maybe thermally conductive clay, just put a snot of clay on the fuses, it better not dry out though :D
    https://cht-silicones.com/products/encapsulants/thermally-conductive-silicone-encapsulants

     

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