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1987 TR: Any AC Gurus on the Board?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by xplodee, Jul 5, 2020.

  1. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    I have a leak in my AC system. It holds a solid vacuum but by the next day I’ve lost a couple ticks on the regulator. When refilled it wont hold for longer than a week or so.

    I tried charging it with dye when I last charged the system but really havent seen any indicators of a leak with the glasses and UV light. Perhaps I didn’t get enough dye into the system.

    The system is now empty, and the compressor is unplugged. Considering the inaccessibility of the evaporator unit, does anyone have any advice on how best to begin trouble shooting the unit at this state? Should I pressurize with air plus oil/dye and look again for leaks? Perhaps purchase a listening device?

    I don’t want to pressurize with R12 yet because I only have so much and don’t want to waste it. If I play my cards right, i probably have enough R12 to last me the rest of the car’s life.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. When last charged, it blew COLD air. But it leaked out soon after, a week or so.
     
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  3. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    put in R134 and look for a leak, then you not waste your great R12
     
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  4. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    Check the shaft seal on the compressor for leaking oil stains. If oil is leaking here the cooling fluid will leak too. Otherwise I think it would be smartest to follow Romano's advise: Re-assemble and fill the system again this time adding some UV dye and then search for your problem.

    Best, Peter
     
  5. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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  6. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    I once has a hose connection leaking at the evaporator under the dash, it was a expensive fix in that the dash had to come out. On the other hand it could have been worse!!
     
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  8. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Removing the dash is a pain, but can be done with common tools.
     
  9. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    Thanks guys. Will charge with R134 and add appropriate amounts of dye/oil, then look for a leak
     
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  10. c4b4the04

    c4b4the04 Formula Junior
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    I am absolutely sure you know this, but if you intend to go back to R12, be sure to use an oil that is compatible with BOTH refrigerants. I don't remember which one is which off the top of my head, but the oils are incompatible and there is one that will do for both. That is the one I would recommend. I've also read on these forums that you should run at slightly lower than full volume when you run R134 in the system. If it is a 40 oz system, you run 32, something like that.

    Sorry I am short on specifics, just wanted to put my .24 1/2 cents in to help

    Cassidy
     
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  11. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    Thanks cassidy! I have an ester oil that is good for r12 and 134, apparently this is the preferred oil type from my research. Good info on the r134 fill, I’ll be mindful of that!
     
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  13. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    You could try filling with redtek 12? It's supposidly a replacement for r12.

    Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
     
  14. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    Just added ester oil with dye (good for R12 and R134) and about 48oz of r134. Will let you guys know how it all goes and where I determine the leak to be.
     
  15. c4b4the04

    c4b4the04 Formula Junior
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    I've heard some horror stories in the Corvette world about that stuff. Mind you that is a fixed orifice system and we have expansion valves, so that could be the difference.

    I think the OP was wise with his choice. I have a buddy with a clean 85 QV 308 that we need to do the same. I draw my vacuum down as close to 28-30 as I can and let it sit for a while. Harder to hold vacuum than pressure of course but the system should still do well. Even with my new-produced high side hose, still held overnight.
     
  16. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    Tim/Cassidy...

    I have yet to find a writeup of the refill procedure. If you guys can find the time to do a writeup it would be much appreciated. Perhaps on a new, well titled thread for an ez search.

    If I missed a prior writeup... any enlightenment would be welcome.

    TIA
     
  17. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    Soooo... I pulled vacuum, inspected and ultimately filled with r134. During the process I found too leaks, one was the pressure sensor on the receiver/dryer wasnt tight and two was a Schrader valve on the compressor needed to be screwed in a bit deeper.

    After addressing these, it took the charge and has been blowing cold for five days or so. I’ll update this thread. Perhaps I found the leak but I doubt it. Fwiw it blows damn cold with r134
     
  18. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    what machine did you use to pull the vacuum?
     
  19. RossoC360

    RossoC360 Formula Junior
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    When I serviced these, I fill the system with nitrogen to pressure check, once it checks out for holding pressure over a period of time, then I draw a vacuum and fill with R12. Also, keep in mind that R12 mineral oil is not compatible with the 134a Freon. FWIW, It will blow colder and run at a lower pressure with the R12.
     
  20. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    A regular vacuum pump, but a good american one and not a junky HF one. I’ve had the latter break and its not worth it.

    the ester oil I use for R12 says its compatible with R134 too
     
  21. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    The TR A/C system was designed for R-12. That what will work best.
     
  22. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
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    thank you, you're right. But if you read this thread I had a specific question that wasnt relating to this point.
     
  23. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    I know, I read the whole post. Just making a statement.
     

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